I realize I’m getting into this thread a little late, having been
busy unpacking from our recent move into a new home and studio
space, but I wanted to take a moment to share my own personal
relationship with beads, and why, as a metalsmith, I continue to
include them in my palate of materials.
One of the first steps our ancient ancestors ever made toward
personal adornment, past painting our bodies with colored clays and
charcoal, was to collect and string shells and pebbles with holes
through them. Then we began to intentionally make the holes and to
shape the pebbles. Voila — Beads!
As a child, I watched my grandmother, an incredible seamstress, sew
thousands of glittering beads and crystals to the custom wedding
dresses and ball gowns she created, and made my own necklaces with
the leftovers. I bought seed beads and wove “Indian” jewelry on a
bead loom and sold it for pocket money in grade school. And when
the Sixties rolled around (yes, I’m that old…) I generated enough
mad money selling “love beads” to hippie shops to buy myself a new
amplifier for my electric guitar.
In the early 1970’s, I learned metalsmithing, and in the intervening
years, have made my living as the creator of intricate fabricated
jewelry. My work frequently involves some central especially
interesting stone which serves as the inspiration for the piece,
often accented by other stones which play off the colors and
patterns of the main one. Many of my pieces are multi-function, and
can be worn as brooch, pendant, neckpiece or displayed as intimate
sculpture.
Beads allow me a huge range of textures, surfaces smooth or
glittery, and an incredible palate of colors from which to create
the multi-strand collar portions of these works. Envision a keystone
shaped cabochon of Australian moss agate, with creamy translucent
zones and areas of luminous honey, shot through with black
inclusions looking like tree limbs. I set this piece in a softly
shield-shaped brooch of sterling accented by peach moonstones set in
18k. OK, interesting enough on it’s own, but what about “value
added”? Using small peach moonstone beads, freshwater pearls in
shades of honey, peach and gray, tiny antique cut steel beads and
acid-washed fumed glass beads in coppery tones, I create a
multistrand collar that plays off the wonderful subtle colors and
patterns of the brooch. So now the collar can be worn alone, and
with the addition of an adapter which I also supply, my customer can
also wear her brooch as a slide on the bead collar, on a neckring or
Omega chain, or just as a brooch on her lapel. A $180 brooch becomes
a $450 ensemble that can be enjoyed half a dozen different ways.
I choose to use beads in some pieces not because I lack the skill to
fabricate or because I’m wanting to make cheap and easy sales items,
but because they offer me an additional range of colors, textures
and materials from which to compose my art. I may spend many hours
at my bead bench, surrounded by dozens of piles of the beads I plan
to use in a particular piece, beads carefully selected to compliment
and interact with a primary fabricated item. I draw from them just
as a painter draws from the array of colors before him, blending,
combining, carefully working to create an evocative flow of color,
shape, scale and texture that will support but not overwhelm the
primary piece I have fabricated.
To me this is no different than when I sit in front of my open gem
cabinet, pulling out loose stones and trying them together.
Sometimes the relationship is immediate… “Oh, yes!” Other times, I
shuffle stones for hours seeking that “perfect” relationship. And
so it is with my use of beads, too. I use them because, just like
the gold, silver, bone, horn and wide range of stones I work with –
they excite me, give pleasure to my senses, feed my soul. This, for
me, is the very heart of the creative process.
I am concerned by the tendency I am hearing toward a sort of elitism
– “Well, I’m a metalsmith, not a (lowly) beadstringer.” Or “I make
serious jewelry” – meaning platinum and gold with precious stones
(often said with a clear air of condescension…) Can we not
recognize that skill and beauty come in many forms and that all
materials can offer a valid opportunity for the creative voice to
find expression? Is it not enough that thousands of individuals who
might never dare take a fabrication class find pleasure and perhaps
even a source of income making adornments of bits of stone and glass
and pearl? Or that craftsmen like myself find, in those same bits,
compliments to our vision?
Maybe beads just give the Caveman and Cavewoman in each of us a
chance to feed that hardwired love of adornment with a few intimate
little baubles…
Walk in Beauty,
Susannah Ravenswing
Jewels of the Spirit
Germanton, NC
(336) 591-8949