These invisible bezels are fragile, usually with very thin azures,
mostly being deformed when the ring is sized, which is why hardly
anyone wants to size those puppies.
That and the fact that occasionally, the stones are actually in
girdle to girdle contact above the metal that’s actually holding
them. If you then size the ring larger, the decrease in curve forces
the stones either into each other, or just out. The first can chip
the stones, the second is just as annoying.
One trick, though, that sometimes will help avoid or reduce
problems with invisible set stones if you have no way to avoid it,
and cannot say no (like, you’re an employee who’s boss won’t listen
to you, or a customer who is too important an account to turn away
who also won’t take no for an answer) is to melt orange flake shellac
all through the stones, above and below, completely encasing the
diamonds and setting metal. Helps to keep it from shifting and
moving. Dissove the shellac after by simply soaking in alcohol.
Avoid the ultrasonic. let it take it’s time. And if you like, prayer
isn’t out of the question…
And as well, if you have to size these, you can also help avoid
problems by not bending the set section at all. Leave the ring oval
or egg shaped, without trying to round it out. Some times, rings with
heavy shoulders make that difficult. In those, you can sometimes more
easily do that by cutting into the shoulders of the ring from the
inside, maybe half way through, enough so you can bend the shank more
sharply at that point, either in or out, to open or close the gap at
the bottom needed for the size adjustment. This leaves the ring not
round, of course, but can avoid changing the curve of the set
section. A laser welder is especially useful here as you can then
avoid any heating as well, when you then have to weld up the seam or
gap formed under each shoulder. Another ploy is to size the ring on
both sides, rather than the bottom, literally moving the whole bottom
half of the ring up or down. Again, this leaves the ring not round.
Which method to choose, if either, depends on which will leave the
ring better looking, or will be easier to do, or similar concerns.
And for those brave souls intent on believing that they, alone among
jewelers, can size these things normally without problems, I’d relate
that I know at least one diamond setter, who in all other areas of
diamond setting is a total stickler for quality, who when faced with
needing to reset an invisible set stone that has fallen out, will
sometimes resort to super glue, and hope he doesnt’ end up seeing the
damn thing again. Another fix I’ve seen, has the stone that’s fallen
out, slightly recut, to remove the corners. That lets him laser weld
in a tiny wire into the gap left by the corners, which then can be,
again with the laser, turned into tiny beads at the corners. This
actually works, leaving the stone essentially bead set, with the
holding metal no longer invisible, but secure. But this is a total
PITA to have to do, what with the cost of trimming that diamond, and
the time involved. Rarely, when a stone falls out, you may have
sufficient amount of the original “flange” showing, or can modify it,
perhaps by adding a trace with a laser, so that you can restore the
flange’s “length”, and raise it’s angle up slightly. Then, if you can
fit the stone down onto the raised flange edges and gently push down,
the stone itself forces the flanges down and into the grooves, again
holding it. Doesn’t always work as planned, but I’ve managed it a few
times. Usually with platinum, not white gold.
Personally, though, I tend to think the things should be illegal.
They look wonderful, and customers assume they will deliver proper
service, when in fact many are disasters waiting to happen. Kind of
like selling a car even when you KNOW it is going to get the buyer
into an accident due to manufacturing defects, and not even bothering
to mention those concerns to the unwary buyer…
Peter