You'll give the best product if you use a machined seamless band,
not a casting.
Sorry about that. I assumed they were cast, but I looked at all the
techy info about the product on my supplier’s website yesterday, and
they are indeed CNC milled blanks.
Stones that you set near edges will not be pointing straight down,
they'd be perpendicular to the surface at that point on the cross
section, and so don't require quite as much metal depth.
I had considered that already (and the culets poking out being a no-
no), as I am very analytical with regard to any projects I’m about
to undertake - to my family’s annoyance sometimes - they can’t
understand why I get so hung up in the details. Looking at the
standard proportions of the brilliant cut, the overall stone height
is 59.3% of the stone’s girdle diameter, so I’ve planned to use
rubies whose diameters are no bigger than the depth of the ring
shank. That way, even if the rubies are a fair bit deeper cut than
the diamonds (which are really well cut), they should still be small
enough so as not to have culets poking out - just as long as I don’t
cut the seats too deep of course! I’m buying my rubies from my
jewellery supply company, so I would hope they’re not using native
cuts! Perhaps I’d better check first just to make sure. The diamonds
are coming from a diamond dealer as they are better than the ones my
normal supplier have to offer - and with plenty of choice, ie any
colour grade, any clarity, any size, etc, etc.
Confusing? Why not do a practice ring in sterling with CZs first
so you get the feel for the geometry involved.
Confusing? Not at all. As I said, all these techy details I already
had sorted in my head. I was also planning to do the sterling/CZ
practice run first and am planning to purchase a few blue sapphires
to go with it.
The thing I’m unsure about now, is how to decide on the layout. Is
it best to do a profile scale drawing to work out where to put the
stones around the band? It’s to be randomly set, so I"m not sure of
the best approach. A scale drawing of the profile would be fine if
the stones were to be evenly set around the centre of the band, but
when they’re to be “scattered”, I’m not sure that will help. Any
advice on this would be gratefully received, thanks.