I have been asked to do a custom engagement ring for a customer who
would like an emerald cabochon as the center stone.
I don’t know where to get one, and certainly don’t want to break one
that he has custom cut. Would this type of stone stand up to
everyday wear?
I have to admit emeralds kind of scare me (hammer wielding flush
setter that I am)
I am curious about anyone’s thoughts regarding the matter, and would
also like any suggestions for alternative green cabochon stones. My
first thought was jade, but I know there is a lot more out there.
Our company sells emerald cabochons - rounds & ovals. Contact me
off-line if your customer is interested; I’ll send you photos &
prices, if you’d like.
I have to admit emeralds kind of scare me (hammer wielding flush
setter that I am)
Nice emerald cabs should be out there. Look for something clean,
it’ll minimize the risk. If you are a hammer wielding type of setter,
then I would say do it in a fairly stout bezel of softer alloy. I
actually prefer to hammer set emeralds this way. I feel I have much
more control and since this is an engagement ring the added security
is essential. Prongs on a high dome cab? No thank you.
Would this type of stone stand up to everyday wear?
I have a customer who didn’t get her engagement ring from me (she got
her wedding band from me) who’s engagement ring has a 3-4 ct.
pyramidal shaped cabochon emerald and it has held up fairly well
over the years. It has some dings and scratches on the surface, but
overall it’s not in too bad shape. I think she’s worn it for about
10-12 years. On the other hand every emerald is different. Another
one might not hold up as well. Plus each individual is different in
how hard they are on their jewelry. I would never give my wife an
emerald ring.
Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
My vote would be for a tsavorite garnet. They have a deep, rich
green color and a high refractive index. They are just slightly less
hard than an emerald, but don’t have the problems with
inclusions/fractures so typical of emeralds. Although, if your
clients can afford a fine, clean emerald or would consider a
synthetic emerald, those are good options for an engagement ring as
well.
As for setting, if you feel uncomfortable doing it yourself, just
send that part of the job out to someone who specializes in that
aspect.
Bonnie Cooper
P.S. Congratulations on becoming a Niche finalist – love your work!
In my experience, Stuller has darn near anything you could want
(except custom steel stamps. :-() IMO, no, it won’t stand up very
well…but since the customer is always right, you can just sell one
now, and replace it when it gets worn.
Sure it will stand up to every day wear. The questions are :
“How long?” A lifetime? very doubtful.
“How tough is the wearer on jewelry?” See above. Could be a day,
could be 50 years (doubtful).
Consider that many newly wed ladies see babies in their future.
Babies mean lots of ring-banging. See above.
“Is the stone treated and to what extent?” An untreated emerald cab
that looks decent is hard to find and rather expensive. Can the
client replace it? Can it BE replaced in case of damage or loss?
Will the ring have to be rebuilt? Treatment CAN strengthen a stone
weakened by fracturing, but it won’t be as durable as an untreated
stone. And, while top quality emerald IS hard and durable, it
probably would not withstnd more than 5 years without damage in a
ring worn constantly.
BUY, you say, we se Art Deco style rings with emeralds in them made
in the 30’s!! And they look great! How can that be…and in Pt, too?
Because those rings were owned ONLY by the wealthy. Those ladies did
not do dishes, lift weights or even raise their own kids. And their
rings were NOT worn all day, every day.
Stones other than emerald that are a pleasing green are either less
hard or less durable…with the exception of fine jadeite. I’ve
worn mine for almost 50 years, every day…but it needs repolishing
every few years.
I don't know where to get one, and certainly don't want to break
one that he has custom cut. Would this type of stone stand up to
everyday wear?
My wife has been wearing a bezel set emerald cabochon every day for
16 years. It has not chipped, but the polish has suffered.
I have to admit emeralds kind of scare me (hammer wielding flush
setter that I am)
They scare me too. Since many of my customers are Irish-Americans,
they want emeralds. They break. Both when you set them and when they
are worn. Your fear is rational.
I am curious about anyone's thoughts regarding the matter, and
would also like any suggestions for alternative green cabochon
stones. My first thought was jade, but I know there is a lot more
out there.
Tsavorite is a good natural green stone. Better than emerald because
it is tougher, usually far clearer, better flash and refraction.
Also fairly expensive at larger than 1 carat, about $375 (faceted) on
up as the stones get larger. Unfortunately it is not seen as
cabochons very often.
I know someone who got a marquee cut emerald in a piece of wedding
jewellery (cuff rather then ring)… them being a known clutz I
jokingly offered to make a white gold roll cage for it. I wasn’t
taken up on the offer but the betting pool says it looses a point in
under 3 years, if it had been a ring the betting pool would have been
sometime in the middle of the honeymoon. N.
Emeralds are beautiful. Laboratory emeralds are exceptionally
beautiful. Perfect. No inclusions. Way less expensive than stones dug
out of the ground. No body died to get them. We didn’t ruin pristine
land.
Look hard at what we do to this earth and the people in it. You are
the experts in your clients eyes. Let them know the costs in dollars
and humanity of traditional choices.
My wealthiest customers prefer ethical choices. At least offer an
alternative. No apologies needed.
I can’t speak to the wearability of an emerald cab, but I have a
faceted emerald (granted, fairly small), set in gold with small
diamonds curving around it that has only left my finger for surgery
in the last 20+ years. My husband originally gave me the emerald by
itself, then when I was pregnant with our daughter sent it to be
"retipped"…except he was having them redo the ring and add a
diamond for every year we had been married. He then presented this to
me after our daughter was born…a real romantic! They do exist!
At any rate, I wear it to work, to cook, to garden, to swim both in
chlorine pools and the ocean, etc. It does everything. I have had to
replace a few of the diamonds (tiny, no big deal) when I didn’t
retip in time, but the emerald has just kept chugging.
Just my experience with a faceted emerald (and as I say, I haven’t
kept it in the jewelry box!).
Do be careful when retrieving something from a hot oven.I have had
more than one experience with customers and friends emeralds
exploding from drastic temperature changes occurring rapidly
particularly if the emerald material has even a slight flaw
previously unnoticed…
N.