I have been reading the latest discussion on torches and would like
to make a few observations. I had a very hard time in finding a
suitable torch a spent considerable time and effort on it.
One, is I advise not to get the harbor freight Genco torch, as this
has one tip, by the time you get the others (eventually you will need
some if not all of them) this is not such a good deal. Instead for
air acetylene, at low cost this place (as far as I know) has the best
price on the air/acetylene Prestolight (great torch), complete kit,
$151.10.
http://tinyurl.com/ywpgea
For Smith air/acetylene this may be the best price (it is not hard
to find the same equipment on this and the above being sold for over
a $100 difference). Feel free to correct me on either if there is a
better price. Full kit, model # Model Ne35A, $ 226, free shipping.
http://tinyurl.com/ysbky5
Always get all the tips that are made for a torch, whatever that may
be, eventually you will need it, this will save money, if for no
other reason than sipping, or retail price locally.
If you are fabricating jewelry from silver the advice is not to get
a butane mini-torch. You would be better off with a plumber’s torch.
(This will work on smaller pieces, as I cut anything from turquoise
to agate, my opinion on what to call large may be different than
some.) I did notice that Berzomatic now has a kit with three tips,
this is a step up as a few years ago they offered no such thing.
However, for a cheep starter torch, a while beck this was a
no-brainer, there was a guy on Ebay selling the Shark Torch, starting
bid was $49. I did ask out of curiosity where he got them, and he
answered, this was JPS America, a Korean company is listed for this
torch, they will refer you to this. Unfortunately they want a $10,000
minimum buy, which I guess he did, probably something like 30,000+
torches. I have always wondered just whom it is that actually makes
that thing. I wonder, as I know some out there have one of these, if
or not it carries any markings that may give a clue?
This is a better torch, not that bad, I wrote to someone that
actually uses them to teach a class, and asked what it could do, and
more importantly what it could not. The reply was. Honesty, no
problem (I will skip what they said about Berzomatic). They did say
it struggled a bit on larger pieces and they usually used two
torches, and remarked that if you already had a plumber’s torch
(a.k.a. Bernzomatic, or such) it could be used as the second heat
source. They also had doubts it would be capable of large belt
buckles. They also remarked, and this is a good tip regardless of
what you use, that on larger pieces (such as bracelets) to use fire
bricks to surround the piece to help reflect heat (hold it in instead
of escaping) and this will make things go easier. This would be fine
on any ring or pendant, as well as most bolos and bracelets by
itself. What they liked about it was the high heat (somewhat limited
in output) and its capability for fine work. Although the guy on Ebay
is no longer selling them, Otto Feri carries this under the name of
EZ torch. I would have no clue as to who has a better price on this.
The problem with the Berzomatic type solution is that this will
indeed get you started on a shoestring, but by the time you get
several to cover the range, you could have gotten for not much more
something that beats it hands down on everything. Then again you wont
have to pay it at once, but.
I noticed on the list several remarks that where they live there was
no problem with acetylene, by code or insurance. This is not always
the case. In this fire district (where I live) it is illegal in
residences (even to store). If stored in an “out building” I forget
just what the distance from the residence is required. It was a way.
Now there are what is air/acetylene equipment that use different tips
allowing them to burn propane (as in a throwaway camping type
canister). The problem is, as this is acetylene equipment (in all
ways) although they will do it, they take a serious performance hit.
I had written to Don Clark (IGS) about this (this was before I had
heard of the Shark torch, by which time I have what I now own). The
advice was I should rethink that. “What you need is high heat and
fine control.” This solution, although it is a “this will work”
leaves something to be desired. As a remark, the use on lager propane
tanks (bigger than the disposable “Coleman” type) is illegal anywhere
in a residence that has adopted the national fire code.
While I am not advocating this, I found the solution to my problem
in what is called the Precision LP Gas Torch. This was designed for
jewelers; it is hot enough to alloy gold or silver. I noticed on the
discussion on a good four-year class, some who wrote from Australia,
where unlike the states, there are a number of schools that actually
train students to be fully capable gold and silversmiths. (Unlike
here where it, as far as I know of the public institutions, are
likely to be more of an art type class. No real preparation for the
actual world of working at a trade.) It is of note that a number of
schools in both Germany and Australia have opted for this torch to
teach (actually train). I am happy with mine and as far as I know,
there have never been regrets with anyone that owns one. I like it
better overall to air/acetylene, which are used in class/shop in
Ogden, Layton, and Roy. (All of these are an older model Smith). It
is capable of bench work; the largest tip (for a melting flame) will
put out a flame approximately of 1 and 1/2 feet. I can do some things
with this I would not even try with the other. A Smith will on the
other end of things melt more. But since I do not plan on making
small statues or such this fits my every need. This in my opinion is
a good torch. As far as I know this is a little different than any
other so can not be compared directly to some other. Anyway I like
it, others may, weighing all, opt for another that may be better
suited for whatever they need.
(What this will not do, is platinum and palladium, nor weld, I was
surprise to learn that the Meco Midget is used to some extent even in
auto body repair, nor braze large objects. but on gold and silver the
higher heat is not needed. It can operate off mapp, for a higher
heat, but still not for platinum etc., but I have never had a reason
to use it. The cooler flame is actually an advantage on silver. As
will be explained. This is my main use.)
As to oxygen/fuel torches many jewelers and others operate one with
propane, and many use a throwaway canister for that propane, for
safety reasons etc. When I was hunting for a torch I received a reply
that they were using a Smith, with the one pound can, and that they
had got hold of a used oxygen generator for $100 (practically stole
it). Problem solved. This place has reconditioned ones I think may be
of use (have not looked into it, as long as there is enough pressure
it should do). http://www.artglass1.com/kitslamp4.htm
Others have solved this by having tanks outside and a line ran into
the work area etc. If I were a homeowner, I would seriously think to
look into a torch that operates off of natural gas. Have the
connection (valves etc) work done by a licensed and bonded
contractor.
As to using a torch that is oxygen/propane with disposable tanks,
the propane will last a long time. You may not want to do this, I was
advised by people adverse to it. The problem is with the oxygen
canister; this will last at maximum setting with a Little Torch 22
minutes top. This may make some sense if using gold, and selling what
you make. On silver because it conducts heat differently, you will be
using mostly the larger tips and/or the melting tip, depending on
project. It will not last anywhere near that long. At over $10 a
shot, this will add up quick.
This is only my opinion based on observations. Others may disagree.
If using a torch for only silver there is a reason why the
air/acetylene type is the preferred torch for construction. Peter
Rowe gave the following, referring to why air/acetylene is the usual
choice for silversmithing. “The broad soft flame makes evenly heating
the whole piece much easier, and avoids much of the uneven expansion
and warping that can occur with larger sheet metal pieces when you
try to use a very small hot flame instead of heating everything
gently.” Silver and gold conduct heat differently, silver can not be
tacked, and the whole thing must be brought to close to melting for
the solder to flow. There is a more detailed discussion on this, and
why this type equipment is the usual tool of choice for that work,
although I do not have the link. (Then again you are not likely to
see an air/acetylene torch on a bench jeweler’s bench.) Others are
happy with using some other torch; these will work for that. One
wrote (when I was looking) that they were using a water torch, they
mentioned the one they had would put out a flame approximately a
quarter inch wide with the biggest tip. This (for silver) would be
the better choice over some other model, although I do not recall
what brand it was. As one person wrote, that when it comes to
torches, it is to some almost like discussing religion. Between
different makes of the better torches of the same type something
probably can be said on each as an advantage over the rival.
