Why is platinum popular?

Jewelry Discussion
21 
I especially enjoy doing 22K inlay in platinum and then engraving
it.

The platinum industry should hire Dave as a cheerleader…;} If
you want to do a gold inlay in platinum, all you have to do is make
the inlay space in the platinum, like you always would - some little
box or whatever. If it were white gold, you might cut little bits of
yellow gold to fit, and solder them in more or less well. In
platinum, you can just get a piece of gold wire and melt the metal
right into the form, and then file it down. Lots of things platinum
can do…

22 
As a goldsmith for over 20 years, I would rather work on a
platinum ring vs. white gold. Yes, it is more malleable, dents,
bends etc. but white gold is brittle. The prongs snap off and have
to be replaced if the stone has to come out. With a platinum head
the prongs easily bend and go back into place without snapping,
hence saving the customer money.

Haha, very funny. Prior to laser welding platinum, repairs were done
with what metal when all the diamonds could not be removed? And what
happened to the integrity of the platinum when white gold was used
for repair?

And for those who repair and do not have a laser welder and do not
care about the future problems that using white gold can create,
whataya think they use?

Not to mention that platinum, like gold, is not used in it’s pure=
state for fabrication or casting either.

A fair amount of platinum castings have laser welding to correct
casting defects that are detectable. I have straightened more bent
platinum prongs than white gold prongs.

And once, twice, three times or more…David Fell has a really
wonderful alloy (winter white)for white gold that has not been
brittle in my experience.

The question was why is platinum popular. So now, is it about how the
public is persuaded by advertising and the jewelery industry, or is
it why is platinum popular with those who work with platinum?

As far as disclosure about rhodium and how it wears off, I have had
customers who did not get disclosure about how prone to what the
platinum guild calls “patina” (literally in an ad in a trade
publication) that platinum develops from being worn. I work for my
customer and I present all options and make all disclosures.

I worked with sterling and gold for 35 years and only recently when
platinum (8-10 years ago) became popular and was requested did I have
to figure out how to deal with learning to work with platinum, and my
choice was to avoid the learning curve and send out the wax to be
cast and finished by outside services. I have enough work to be
pretty busy full time and have more than I can handle, something has
to be sent out, and I would rather pay those that are proficient and
have the patience and special equipment to work with platinum.
However, hearing about the superiority of fabricated platinum over
cast, it is more tempting to me to try using platinum.

Richard Hart

P.S. I wrote the above post before I read Peter Rowe’s post. I never
did understand why antique die struck platinum rings looked so good
after all those years and modern rings looked so worn after a few
weeks or months.

In the context of having to deal with inherent characteristics of
cast platinum that is what the majority of what is sold nowadays, I
stand behind what I wrote.

23 
I'm sorry, I can't let this go unchallenged. If this was the case
wouldn't you expect to see high end diamonds routinely set in
silver, in new production? But you don't because the manufacturer
assumes some product liability by the choices he/she makes in metal
selection. Your decision, your consequences. The choice of silver
in antiques merely reflects the fashion and technology of the day.
Its a new day. Maybe the surviving silver pieces in antique stores
survived because they weren't worn much, because they weren't all
that attractive to the owners once platinum (or white gold) became
more popular.

Presently, use of silver in high-end jewellery is not popular. I will
concede this point. But it is not because something wrong with the
metal; it is a perception, and perception becomes reality. The
durability of the jewellery depends more on craftsmanship, than on
the properties of a metal. Besides it is cheaper to use platinum
casting than to pay wages to goldsmith constructing a setting in
silver. I do antique reproductions and I always use gold backed
silver for them, and I have no complains.

A fine example of craftsmanship overcoming limitation of material are
“Dutch clocks” from early 1600’s. The origin of the name is not clear
and misleading because these clocks were made in Germany. These
clocks were made entirely of wood; gears, escapement, absolutely
everything. Not a single metal part was used for their construction.
I believe some of them can even be found today in working order.

Leonid Surpin

24 
Presently, use of silver in high-end jewellery is not popular. I
will concede this point. But it is not because something wrong with
the metal; it is a perception, and perception becomes reality.

Actually, in my book there is a very real reason not to use silver
with diamonds. Silver tarnishes. When a silver bezel or prong holding
a diamond tarnishes (especially behind the stone) it makes the
diamond look dark (or darker than it is) and it’s hard to get rid of
without removing the stone. There are only so many times you can do
that with any metal.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC

1 Like
25 
The question was why is platinum popular. So now, is it about how
the public is persuaded by advertising and the jewelery industry,
or is it why is platinum popular with those who work with platinum?

Yes, Richard, it has devolved to “I like white gold better”, which
is not the question. And the notion that silver is in any way
comparable to platinum is just too dangerous a misconception to
permit on a public forum, as Neil points out. The fact that a grass
hut lasted for 100 years doesn’t mean grass is as good as steel for
construction, that’s just a lucky hut. Millions of silver rings
didn’t make it - yes, millions…It’s butter…

I said it in my first post on this thread - how can a person say why
anything is popular? Because people like it… Gold was found
natively - platinum, too, but less of it. They are noble metals -
there is an “eternal” quality about them, and they remain unchanged
by the elements over time. You could say that marketing over the
centuries have made the public want them, but I just don’t believe
that. I think there is something more primal to it - fur coats have
fallen out of fashion, but that’s just lately, and some people and
cultures. So, while the question is a valid one, I’d say the real
answer remains, “Because it is.” Trying to understand it is good,
trying to say that people are wrong to want it because white gold
prongs are better or silver is whiter is foolhardy.

Personally I like it because I like it - it’s durable, I like the
blue white color much more than the yellowish of white gold (or the
“white-white” of new alloys or rhodium). Has nothing to do with
money, in my case, I just like it. I also LOVE to work it, but
that’s different. Why are rubies popular? Or sapphires? They are
mostly pretty, but the ones the general public can afford just
aren’t that great to have some huge mystique associated with them.
It’s something more primal than just red stones, blue stones. Maybe
it’s something about wanting to be closer to the angels…“I own
something rare and special”…

26

Richard et al,

It’s refreshing to read the “full disclosure” attitude of jewellers
on Orchid. Prior to entering the jewellery business, I was of course
just a jewellery buyer (occasionally), and my favourite colour of
gold was white gold. My husband and I purchased a number of white
gold jewellery items and not once were we ever told that white gold
jewellery is plated with rhodium. We had no idea whatsoever. We
thought that the white gold alloy used in jewellery looked shiny and
white - like rhodium I guess. It wasn’t until I was researching the
whole jewellery field that I found some very small print on the back
cover of a jeweller’s catalogue which declared that unless otherwise
stated, all their white gold jewellery was plated with rhodium. I
then discovered that this is the industry standard. Had I known
this, and also known the problems associated with it (the wearing
away and white gold having a brown hue), I would not have purchased
white gold jewellery - or at least I’d have been better informed, and
able to make informed choices, rather than being kept in the dark.

I’ve said it before and someone else said it last week - I’m not a
fan of rhodium plated white gold. The whole idea speaks of
"cheapness" to me (and other people I’ve spoken to), like silver
plated or gold plated jewellery. I’m aware of the reasons for doing
it but I’m just not keen, especially when there are such good white
gold alloys available which don’t require rhodium plating. It sounds
as though in the States you have a choice of a few decent, really
white, white gold alloys and here in the UK there are good palladium
white gold alloys which require no plating. I intend to try the
palladium white golds and also the palladium alloys (no gold content,
just palladium, gallium and copper) quite soon and I’m hoping that
they’re good alternatives to platinum and white gold alloys that
require plating. The palladium white is a bit more expensive than the
normal white gold alloys but rhodium solution is not cheap anyway and
I like the fact that anything made from one of the new palladium
white alloys will keep its appearance without the need for periodic
plating that the other alloys need. The palladium (non-gold) alloys
are even less expensive than 18K and 9K white gold (approx a quarter
of the price of 18K white gold and half to three quarters of the
price of 9K, depending on how much you buy of course).

Is anyone out there using palladium white gold or palladium
(non-gold) alloys instead of traditional white gold alloys? I’d be
interested to hear folks’ experiences.

Helen
UK

1 Like
27

With great interest I have been following the posts on this subject.
I am not surprised to see that there are various view-points on the
subject, but there is also a lot of misLet me try to
clear up some of it.

Hardness. How hard is platinum? well it ranges from 40 HV to 380 HV
depending on the alloy combination and treatment. For instance a
Kretchmer tension ring is so hard that the common jewelers saw wont
cut it and attempting to do so will only dull the blade. The main
reason why people have issues with denting and bending and
scratching is the fact that they use the wrong alloy for the job.
Pt950/Ir is NOT a casting alloy. With the hardness of 80HV is is way
too soft for casting, BUT, many jewelers use it because the “setters
like it” and it “engraves like butter”. Of course the customer will
then have to deal with denting, bending and such, but the setters are
happy. As a fabrication alloy, however, Pt950/Ir is wonderful and
work hardens rapidly to over 180 HV.

Casting alloys are Pt950/Ru and Pt950/Co ( hardness 130/135 HV)
Universal alloys are Pt900/Ir and also Pt950/Ru. Both are good to
cast, excellent for hand fabrication and great for tubing to make
machined wedding bands.

Platinum is the most precious precious metal. It is far more
resistant to destruction by nature than any other precious metal.
Case and point: to dissolve it, Aqua Regia has to be boiling, for
other metals it can be room temperature.

Platinum is far more rare that gold (30X) and should not be compared
to gold as the two are not related. There is absolutely no
comparison to white gold. Yes they may look similar, but Pt has no
stress corrosion, is hypo-allergenic and does not wear away over
time. It is naturally white and should never be rhodium plated.

The high gloss polished look that some jewelers put on platinum is
really not the proper finish. Platinum is not meant to be polished.
That is the white gold look…add rh plating and your platinum piece
looks like a white gold ring.

Not my choice. I like the traditional satin or engraved finishes and
allow for it to develop the natural patina that platinum is known
for all over the world.

As far as soldering is concerned, the traditional Pt solders in this
country have been mixtures of Pd and Ag and only the very high
temperature solders contained any platinum at all. To overcome this
challenge the metal providers make Pt952 when they sell you a Pt950
alloy. That 2 ppt makes up for any metal used for solder that does
not contain platinum. This has been overcome with the recent
development of high purity (plumb) solders which may contain as much
as 95% platinum.

When platinum jewelry is designed and made for platinum and is not
ring #xyz that one can have in gold/silver or whatever and also in
Pt, is made from the proper alloy, burnished and polished or
decorated as platinum should, the piece will outlast anything!
Period. So yes it costs more, yes it may be a challenge to work with
to some, but with the proper education and understanding it is far
less complicated to work with than many other metals out there.

Platinum is not difficult, it is just different.

Feel free to send your questions to me or ask for or
help with technical issues.

Jurgen J. Maerz
Director of Technical Education
Platinum Guild International

28

Hi Helen and all-

I’ve been using 18K palladium white gold (Hoover & Strong, Richmond,
VA) for a number of years for fabricated jewelry and prefer it to
other white gold alloys for several reasons. As you stated, it
doesn’t oxidize, and it has a beautiful light-gray-to-white color
very much like platinum. In addition, it works nicely, solders
easily and can be work-hardened without becoming brittle. I have no
experience with its casting properties, though; perhaps someone else
can share theirs.

By all means check it out- Kip

29

And as a point to ponder, anyone considering where platinum is
popular and where it ain’t? Jewelry manufactured in India and Asian
countries are exclusively high karat yellow gold. I know in Japan
platinum is desirable and prestigious, but most other Asian countries
don’t use white gold or platinum for their population other than what
is made for export. Rather large populations in Asia and India, so is
platinum popular when this is taken into consideration?

Richard Hart G.G.
Jewelers Gallery
Denver, Co.

30 
I own something rare and special....

And THAT folks, is jewelry in a nutshell…all of it.

There’s been a few grumbling rumblings lately about some perceived
elitist element about fine jewelry. Well, its not just perceived, its
the essence of jewelry. I wonder if the uncomfortable feeling some
have about expensive(and that’s totally subjective) jewelry might be
connected to an inexperience with it. So you get sentiments like “I
choose copper or silver or bamboo because I’m philosophically /
politically comfortable with it”. Which is fine, do what you wanna
do. But don’t they charge more than it cost to make the piece,
regardless of material? Don’t they add value by infusing the
material with the feeling of rarity and special-ness? Isn’t that a
form of elitism? (and is there really something wrong with that?)
Even if its a $50 bamboo thingamabob?

31 
I've been using 18K palladium white gold (Hoover & Strong,
Richmond, VA) for a number of years for fabricated jewelry and
prefer it to other white gold alloys for several reasons. As you
stated, it doesn't oxidize, and it has a beautiful
light-gray-to-white color very much like platinum.

I was involved in Hoover’s decision to start making 18k palladium
white gold so I probably have more experience with it than just
about anyone on list and I can assure you that it absolutely does not
look like platinum. It is a fine metal to work with and will not
oxidize but there is a distinctive color difference between the two
metals that is extremely easy to see.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC

32 
Actually, in my book there is a very real reason not to use silver
with diamonds. Silver tarnishes.

It supposed to tarnish. That is why it calls antique reproduction. It
does not leave the shop without patination.

When a silver bezel or prong holding a diamond tarnishes
(especially behind the stone) it makes the diamond look dark (or
darker than it is)

And the patina enhances diamond appearance. The only thing that will
make diamond look dark is a pavilion that leaks light. As far as
“behind the stone” There is no such thing in well design setting

Leonid Surpin

33 
And the patina enhances diamond appearance. The only thing that
will make diamond look dark is a pavilion that leaks light. As far
as "behind the stone" There is no such thing in well design setting

True, for properly done brilliant cuts. But many of the antique
pieces that were set in silver, had less well cut diamonds, as well
as rose cuts. These do indeed change their appearance depending on
what’s behind the stone. One legacy of this is the fine craftsmanship
tradition of carefully azure cutting the metal behind diamond
settings, rather than leaving it solid, or just drilling round
through holes. To a degree, it’s to lighten up the piece, but it’s
also the idea that you need to let light in behind the stone. This
was indeed something that changed, sometimes improved, the appearance
of old stones. It stopped being really true once diamond cutting had
developed proper optics, but the old traditions die hard…

That said, frankly I like the dark patina of oxidized silver behind
many stones, not just diamond. Gives it contrast… It’s a different
look than bright white, but not less attractive.

Peter

34

Helen-

I recently made custom wedding rings in palladium white gold and
they were gorgeous. The material was enjoyable to work with, and I
thought it looked very similar to platinum, or at least it would
have been hard to tell the difference.

I would recommend it, if the cost of platinum wasn’t so low right
now comparatively!

Belle
http://www.bellebrooke.net

35 
There's been a few grumbling rumblings lately about some perceived
elitist element about fine jewelry. Well, its not just perceived,
its the essence of jewelry. I wonder if the uncomfortable feeling
some have about expensive(and that's totally subjective) jewelry
might be connected to an inexperience with it.

Jewellery valuation is an interesting subject in itself. The price
of jewellery is the cost of material + cost of labour + overhead.
Cost of labour is something which will only be increasing. Cost of
material, if we ignore temporary fluctuations, the trend is also up.
Overhead is another matter. There are a lot of inefficiencies which
can be and will be eliminated as time goes by. Besides, if you ever
have to sell, it would be difficult argument to make that because
jewellery was made in a high rent district, it deserves a premium.
So what is the real bargain when shopping for jewellery? Obviously
where the overhead compared cost of labour and material is as small
as possible. That happen to be so called “expensive” jewellery. I
guess this is a good place to recall that we always get what we pay
for.

Leonid Surpin

36

Leonid,

The only thing that will make diamond look dark is a pavilion that
leaks light. As far as "behind the stone" There is no such thing in
well design setting

In my admittedly limited experience of only 35 years dealing with
repairs on antiques, museum pieces, etc. I can tell you that diamonds
set in tarnished silver consistently look darker than when they are
pulled out of the setting and put into something that isn’t tarnished
(or put back into the setting after it’s been cleaned up). If the
background is black and the diamond is white it is inevitable that
the darkness of the background will effect the look of the diamond.
It’s ok with me if you like the look, but it is different than they
would look in a nontarnishing metal.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC

37

Hi Kip,

Thanks for the feedback on the palladium white gold alloy you use.
Daniel comments that it doesn’t look like platinum. Obviously, not
all whites are alike and that can clearly be seen when looking at
the wonderful mokume gane offerings from the likes of James Binnion
and Chris Ploof. When asking about palladium white golds or palladium
alloys, I wasn’t seeking an alternative to platinum per se. I don’t
need an alloy to look like platinum - just a white alloy that will
stay white without the need for rhodium plating - and palladium
whites provide that, whether or not it looks like platinum.

I was planning on doing some work with palladium white gold and
palladium alloy to see which I prefer, but that will have to wait
until after Christmas now due to pre-Christmas cash flow! Hopefully
I’ll report my findings as and when I can get round to it.

Helen
UK

38 
And the patina enhances diamond appearance. The only thing that
will make diamond look dark is a pavilion that leaks light.

Jewelry Newbies would do well to remember that this is still the
internet where misis unfortunately abundant. The
tarnished
silver will bleed darkness thru the girdle area. Anyone can verify
this themselves.

39 
Platinum is not difficult, it is just different.

Very nice little paper there by Mr. Maerz. As he says, above, it’s
not difficult to work it’s just different. I would expand that to say
it’s VERY different than silver or gold, and someone just launching
into a platinum job after only working silver probably will interpret
it as difficult, by comparison. But when you learn the rules and the
methods and work platinum the way it should be worked, it is a joy to
work with. That, to me, means 10% iridium. All the other alloys I’ve
worked with are !##!%&^%* by comparison.

40 
I've been using 18K palladium white gold (Hoover & Strong... I
have no experience with its casting properties, though; perhaps
someone else can share theirs.

I have had H&S cast up a number of things in 18KPW. Couldn’t tell
you how it is to actually cast at home so to speak but their castings
were OK with me. Its nice and supple, great for those nervous stones
like square emeralds.

I find it kinda brownish by comparison. Which is not that big a deal
for me because I have no moral dilemma concerning rhodium. I wouldn’t
choose it over platinum except for its safety factor in setting. For
something wrought its much easier to work with so if its heavy and
very bendy I will look at the feasibility of palladium white within
the parameters of the design/budget.