Viking Knit work with wire

Hi everybody,

I was just reading a forum posting about learning on one’s own and
learning by being taught. I suddently realized that I need actual
hands-on help in learning how to do Viking Knit work with wire.

Would anybody know of any school or person in the New York City area
who I might contact about lessons in this technique?


There is a lot of here on Orchid, and also a VERY GOOD
tutorial with Photos at:

This is exactly how I was trained, and if you follow along with
these instructions you will very good with a few practices.

I would be happy to show you and with some variations as well, but
alas, I am all the way in Ohio, a little to far for a free lesson.

Good Luck!

I had a request from a customer to make a pair of Viking knit
earrings. I read what I could, viewed the video on Rocio’s website at - This website is for sale! - fineartbyrocio Resources and Information., then started
to practice with copper.

I discovered the following:

  1. The initial spacing of the loops was important. The more evenly
    spaced, the better the initial weaves.

  2. Annealed wire was worse for me to work with than hardened wire.
    The annealed wire hardened as I worked it, but the hardening wasn’t
    even along the length I worked with. I would find myself drawing a
    loop tight and then a softer spot would cause a tight bend which
    often ended up in an uneven weave.

  3. I found I had to be careful to attempt to pull the wire at
    approximately the same effort each time.

  4. I put tape at the base of my index and ring finger. I would then
    grasp the wire in the crease at the bottom of my fingers, then
    protected by the tape, I could pull it more evenly, and with the
    tape, not worry about cutting my flesh.

  5. I covered all edges and protrusions around my bench where the
    wire might get caught as I was manipulating it. It was frustrating to
    be pulling a loop only to find the wire caught on something.

  6. Lastly, I found that there are things that are difficult to
    articulate, but with practice can be found and assimilated into your

Mike DeBurgh, GJG
Henderson, NV

G’day Mike

I have made many viking chains and here are some lessons I’ve
learnt. 1. Unless your client specifies precious metals such as gold,
silver - do not use them for the very reasons you mentioned.

  1. Use gold filled wire or fine silver - not - 9/18ct or sterling

  2. If a cheaper alternative is needed, use Artistic Wire from
    Artistic Wire Ltd in Non Tarnish Brass or Non Tarnish Silver.

  3. Artistic Wire remains malleable no matter how long you work it.

  4. Do not make viking chains at your work bench, you need a cleared
    area to work.

  5. Do not cut your lengths too long. (I do not cut my lengths any
    longer than the 50cm)

Hope this is helpful

Lyn Nelson
Queensland, Australia

I have been making many Viking chains. Love it! But I use 22 ga
Sterling - don’t mind the tarnish - just toss them in the tumbler
and shiny bright! Or oxidized naturally!!!

One word of caution… I make the lengths of wire about 3 feet
long… the wire has a tendency to be springy. One time the end of
the wire sprung back in behind my glasses and cut the cornea. Very
painful…had to have a bit of tissue trimmed the next day at the
Dr’s. To be really safe it would be wise to wear safety glasses that
have the little side protectors. Going too far?

Keep on aweavin’
Rose Marie Christison