Tips on making solid signet ring

Jewelry Discussion
1

Hi Guys,

Can anyone give me tips on making a man’s solid signet ring? My main
problem is hammering the larger middle part of the shank to make it
spread out.

Also too, how does one bend it? Using the ring mandrel?

Thanks,
GV.

2

I’m not convinced this is a doable hand project. Cast it or buy a
die struck ring would be my advice.

3

Well it ain’t solid as such, but it give you a basic idea.

and part two and three is there as well.

Cheers, Hans

4

Thanks for that super-clear set of photos; I’m trying to re-learn
and vastly improve my metalsmithing skills via the internet since
classes in this part of the world are rare if not non-existant.
cheers,

Finola
Barbados

5

For signet rings making template blanks is the way it was done most
commonly.There is an old reprinted jewelry making book with many many
of them in it. If you like I can send you a copy of the templates
that you can print out (i believe it is public domain work at this
point!).

6

I would be very interested in seeing that book too. Could you post
its title?

Thanks,
Willis

7

From time to time I have had to make heavy signet rings, I hate the
thin ones in jewellery shops.

I usually start with a 6mm square bar about 40mm long I mark the
central 8mm with permanent marker. First anneal.

In my wire rolling mills I find the first grooves that will grip the
metal, reduce a bit and roll up to the marked area, reverse, turn bar
90 deg roll to mark, reverse, change ends repeat process. Reduce
again, change ends and roll till you feel the bulge, reverse etc.
Dosey do. Continue probably through a couple of grooves until the
metal is about 2.5mm square. You should now have a bulged symmetrical
piece, the central section untouched by the rollers.

Anneal and gently bend the thinner ends, one towards you and one
away. S with bulge! Move to your Sheet rollers and open till the bulge
fits tight, reduce and holding one thin end roll across the bulge,
reduce and cross roll in the opposite direction, continue cross
rolling changing direction until your central area is about 3mm
thick. Your central area should be about 12mm wide tapering nicely to
your shank lengths.

Straighten shanks and anneal central area. You must decide how
exactly how you want the ring to look. Perhaps thinner or whatever.
Bend the central section in swage or on a log with raising hammer,
bend shanks round mandrill overlapping to below finger size cut and
solder, round ring off. You may need to hammer the central section to
flatten it a bit. I would use a raising hammer, working across the
rounded face of the central section. Re-size. With judicial hammering
and filing you should end up with a heavy signet ring. Sometimes I
solder a thicker top plate on if say intaglio engraving is to be
done. Have a rubber mold made for next time.

If you dont have rolling mills you can hand forge the silver or 18
ct. If you can forge. Or get a wax made with CAD!!!

Best of luck. David
jewellerydavidcruickshank.com.au

8

David,

I love that you can make a heavy signet ring with the rolling mill!
However, I found your verbal description a bit difficult to
understand. Is there any chance I could get you to my studio in San
Diego to make a video of your technique? Rolling mill processes like
yours are priceless, and I think need to be preserved.

Let me know if you plan to be out this way, David, I’d love to meet
you.

ay Whaley