Recently I foolishly agreed to make a ring for my favorite brother-in-law. He told me he had always wanted a ruby ring (his birthstone) and I just happened to have 3 faceted rubies in my stash–2 ovals and a rectangle. He chose the smallest oval which is 6.92mm x 5.04mm. Frankly, I’ve never made a gent’s ring set with a stone before and most of the rings I’ve made have been with bezel, tube, or flush set stones. None of those setting styles feels right for this ring and I’m hoping someone can give me suggestions. Below is the ring (and, yes, I see some fire scale on the inside that I need to file away!). Sorry for the dirty fingernails:rofl:!
The obvious problem is the lack of depth on the top of the ring.
Unless you plan on adding a tall setting to the top of the ring, it is highly
doubtful that a 7X5 ruby can be set and clear the finger.
Jon Michael Fuja
Trees via Ganoksin Orchid [mailto:email@example.com]
Thanks, Jon. The width of the top of the ring is 10mm and the thickness or depth is 3mm. The height of the ruby is 3mm. I’m assuming you are saying the dimensions don’t match in the event I wanted to flush set the ruby. However, I was hoping for setting suggestions other than flush or the standard bezel setting.
Thank you again for your input.
I think the bigger issue is the design. You’ve got a rectangular top which is significantly larger than the oval stone. What are you planning to do with the empty corners?
As to the setting, a dogtooth bezel might be a nice way to go if you could make it a bit chunkier than is typical.
Sorry, I should have elaborated that detail. I’m planning to solder a 14k gold border around the rectangular top with 16 gauge half-round wire and texture inside the border and around the stone using a tip for my hammer hand piece. Thank you for the suggestion. I will look into making a dogtooth heavy bezel. I like that idea!