Please can anyone help me? I am a newby learning the art of making
silver jewellery as I go along. I am having a problem setting stones
in my latest pieces.
I have painstakingly fabricated a pendant, ring and earrings for my
daughter for her school prom next week. The design looks a little
like “bubbles”. I am using two sizes of stones, 6mm brilliant cut
cubic zirconia and 4mm round cut rhodolite garnets. I constructed the
pieces by making bezels, then soldering them onto base plates. These
little “pots” were then soldered together just at the base so that
the tops could still be folded over the edges of the stones. The
pieces were very successfully and neatly made and myself and my
daughter were thrilled with the result. The pieces were duly polished
ready to set the stones. I made bearer wires so that the faceted
stones would sit in the correct places inside the “pots” and so that
they would be straight. However, when it came to folding the silver
over the stones, I am having great problems doing this neatly. I have
tried using a bezel pusher as I’ve done before.
I know that professional stone setters can train for years and that
one is always learning, but unfortunately I do not have the luxury
of being able to go back to university to learn that way. Please,
please, please could you advise me how to accomplish this neatly.
I’ve done it successfully on larger stones, but obviously then the
thickness of the silver is proportionately smaller and easier to
bend over or push onto the stone. 6 or 4mm stones are a lot more
tricky to set this way. Are there any tricks of the trade I can try.
The gauge of silver I am using is the thinnest I am able to get,
0.3mm. I am probably going to have to start from scratch and make the
whole set again, much to my chagrin.
Please help if you can. Many thanks.