Ring mounting size

Jewelry Discussion
1

Hello,

I’m planning to set the very first stone I’ve ever faceted, a round
brilliant citrine, into a 14K ready-made ring mount from Rio Grande
(Item Number 6241297).

The stone’s diameter is 11.1mm. Rio’s closest size choices are 10mm
and 12mm.

Given that I will probably have to refile the notches regardless,
will I achieve a more secure mount by:

  1. Using the 10mm size, spreading the prongs farther apart?

  2. Using the 12mm with prongs bent closer?

One of my concerns is that the stone’s pavilion and culet would drop
too low into the 12mm size, and that correspondingly the prongs would
be too high, and moreover, light refraction would not be optimal.

Any help will be appreciated!

Thanks,
Lorraine

2

Its always hard to say without having the items in hand but I think
my preference would be to use the 12mm and cut down the basket.

One of my concerns is that the stone's pavilion and culet would
drop too low into the 12mm size, and that correspondingly the
prongs would be too high, and moreover, light refraction would not
be optimal.

Typically a 12 mounting ‘should’ be a tad taller to start with.
Watch the culet doesn’t hit the finger. The setting should have no
effect on the way the stone handles light.

If you don’t want to cut and solder the mounting sometimes you can
stretch the setting with a suitably sized mandrel in which case you’d
use the 10.

FWIT I detest prenotched settings because you have zero flexibility
as far as placement of the stone and perhaps more importantly the
pressure usually required to bend the short prong can be risky to
stones, quartz especially, among others.

3

Lorraine,

I'm planning to set the very first stone I've ever faceted, a
round brilliant citrine, into a 14K ready-made ring mount from Rio
Grande (Item Number 6241297). The stone's diameter is 11.1mm. Rio's
closest size choices are 10mm and 12mm.

I have always used the larger size, generally more metal to work
with. Squeezing is not always an option but cutting the bearing a
little deeper usually is. Avoid pre-cuts when possible, you know (or
will learn) where the bearing has to go. The pre-cuts in the photo
(rio 6241297) I found just plain scare me and I don’t scare that
easy.

jeffD
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing
http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand

4

Sterling Silver Ladies Round Wire Mount Ring For an 11mm Round
Faceted Gem. Finger Size 7 Product ID: 163-496-1100-7

the above is available from www.tripps.com the best is to have a
correct size match, you might find this ok. otherwise you can’t very
well bend prongs outward, that will cause the prongs to not hold well
at all; the too large setting could be made smaller with some
additional wire/metal being added into the setting. i presume that
you don’t want to have a custom setting cast for you.

john

5

Use the 10mm and dap out the prongs to cut the seat. An analogy would
be that anything past 17 degrees from center is easier to push away
from the stone…and I doubt you will reach that angle. Besides, if
you have to move the prongs in too far then it would be possible to
push the stone out of the seat in the center.

Good luck…

Russ Hyder
Jewelry cad Institute.
www.thejewelrycadinstitute.com