I seldom use a saw any more to cut the coils of jump rings.
instead, I use a seperating disc in the flex shaft
this sounds like a great idea. any chance you might make a demo
just to clarify it a bit?
Nope. I have enough trouble just getting all my actual jewelry work
done, much less even taking decent photographs of the finished
pieces. And doing a demo video isn’t something I feel like I really
need to learn how to do right now.
However, if anything in my description wasn’t clear, please ask. I
may not be a film maker, but I type real fast… (grin)
If really needed, I suppose I could scan a quick sketch for you. But
frankly, this isn’t complex. Reread my description. If needed, ask me
for details on parts of it.
I’m basically doing, sort of free hand, with a seperating disk what
the jump ringer does with it’s cutting attachment. Instead of a
circular saw such as the jump ringer uses(those are nasty when not in
a guard), I’m using very thin seperating disks. Those might break,
but they’re unlikely to slice off a finger if something slips. The
seperating disk also lets me cut the rings while still on the mandrel
(the shank of the drill bit). Using a saw wouldn’t work, as they
would dull. And cutting them while still on the mandrel (drill
shank) means I don’t need that fancy coil holding fixture. just a
pair of pliers to hold the drill in (it gets hot when cutting, so
fingers aren’t so good)
Note that the method I described is well suited to making SMALL
rings. In the course of commercial jewelry, including repair work,
etc, in gold and platinum, I find that most of the jump rings I need
are things like 1 to 3 millimeters on the inside diameter, and wound
of wire that’s often perhaps a half to 3/4 millimeters in diameter.
They vary more than that, of course, but that’s the idea. That’s
usually smaller than the jump ringer or pepe jump ring maker’s
mandrels. And I often find I need to get the inside diameter of the
jump ring just the right size, not almost so. So using a set of
numbered drill bits, which are very close together in size from one
drill to the next, lets me choose the mandrel size more accurately
than with the more widely spaced jump ringer mandrels. And drill
bits are fairly cheap, especially if you’re not buying premium drill
bits. Plus, they’re dual purpose. Sometimes, you might also need to
use them as drills, and the score marks on the shanks from cutting
off rings don’t hurt their ability to drill holes. And finally, you
don’t then need a fancy additional tool like the jump ringer taking
space on your bench.
Don’t get me wrong, the jump ringer is a great tool. I have one, and
use it when it’s size range is what I need. But it’s best suited to
larger rings in larger wire than I often use. If I need quarter inch
or half inch diameter rings in 16 guage silver, and I need a hundred
of them, you can bet I’m getting out the jump ringer. For that, it’s
the ideal tool. Among other things, for that size wire, the thin
seperating disks just wouldn’t last very long. I’d go through
several just cutting one longer coil…
But for the smaller rings, my method is generally faster than using
the jump ringer, since I’m cutting the rings directly off the mandrel
they were wound on. No time spent removing the coil and clamping into
a fixture. Just wind the rings, then slice down the length of the
coil with that thin seperating disk, and you’re done. Quick and easy.
And those thin disks give a really smooth cut and a narrow kerf.
The.006 disks leave a cut as narrow as that from an 8/0 saw blade.
Can’t ask for much more than that.
By the way, an addendum to my prior description of winding the
coils. I wind them just with my fingers when I only need a few. a
half dozen or so. If, instead, I need two dozen or three dozen or
more, I chuck the drill bit into my #30 handpiece, but backwards, so
the drill shank protrudes, rather than the drilling fluted part. Then
insert the end of the wire between the jaws of the chuck next to the
shank, and gently run the flex shaft. Just like the jump ringer, only
powered, and in miniature…