But in following the PNP directions, I have been unable to get the design to adhere to the metal, despite following its directions -- cleaning metal with steel wool and rinsing with soap and water. I have been measuring the temperature of the iron between 275 and 325 and varying the time between a minute and five minutes and the resist just WILL NOT STICK. The sheets were printed from my in-house Brother Laser Printer which I bought for the job for about $100.
First, don’t use steel wool. It has oil, which is the bane of clean
metal. Use sandpaper, scrubby pad or acrylic nail foam bars to remove
oxides and provide a lightly scratched surface resembling a very soft
satin finish. Clean your metal with a dish soap that is high in
surfactants (lifts grease and oil) and low in emollients (oil, lotion
or other greasy softening agents). In other words, “Cleans grease!”
is high in surfactant, “Soft hands!” is high in emollients.
Personally, I like to use No-Name Patina Prep (usual disclaimer). The
water should “sheet” off, with no breaks of water across the surface.
If you have areas that look dry and others that look wet, scrub some
more. Some people have very oily skin, so use gloves if you’re not
having success.
PnP Blue resist transfers between 400-425 degrees Fahrenheit.
Make sure you have printed on the matte side of the resist and not
the shiny side.
Your laser printer MUST use dry toner and not liquid toner.
Katherine Palochak