i have this older dremel, that i use for non-jewelry things, and on steel tools, outside of my studio…
it says speeds 5000- 30,000 rpm…somewhat imprecisely controlled by a switch with 5 settings…
in my humble opinion, the lowest speed (that i am experiencing on this particular unit) is way faster than i ever go on my flexshaft…i often use 5-15 rpms on my micromotor…
my flexshaft is a much utilized tool, even thought i hand sand alot…i think it is a good investment over a dremel…in terms of not putting unneccessary obstacles in the way of your learning process…(meaning tools that hinder rather than help)
i suggested the # 30 handpiece primarily due to its variable chuck…if i only had one handpiece, this is the one i would have…i have many hand pieces but i revert to it often…it is shorter and thus my wrist fights the shaft less…
and the lucas lowboy footpedal is well worth the price…it is very smooth and has an extremely light touch…i always felt my foredom footpedals were a bit jumpy outta the gate at low rpms…it also has a low profile pedal that is very comfortable…well made…metal construction…heavy…doesnt flip on its side if the cable torques…
There has been a lot of good information here. The one thing I always tell myself when soldering, and it’s very important:
Remember that solder flows to where it’s the hottest, solder flows to where it’s the hottest! This is why you preheat the bezel, joints etc.
Sometimes the soldering blocks can act like a heat sink, where the piece being soldered won’t get hot enough. I found that it was best to be able to apply heat from all angles, particularly underneath the object being soldered. When the joint is hot enough, the solder will be drawn in, as mentioned. Heating just from the top will often cause the solder to burn, without getting the joint hot enough. Melting and remelting the solder raises the melting point where the solder just won’t flow.
Sometimes if the joint isn’t clean, the solder will not flow. By over heating the object, the barrier flux made with a 50/50 ish mix of denatured alcohol and boric acid will become contaminated. This needs to be cleaned.
Angela,
I am confused…I don’t think that the heat capacity of copper is that much different from silver. I just looked at a Youtube video where the demonstrator used a torch similar to yours and melted two snippets of solder on a thick ring in about 25 seconds:
There are lots of videos of people using butane torches to make silver jewelry. Just use the search function and look at some. Your picture of your torch has a fairly large flame, larger than the one on my butane torch, and it looks neutral to slightly reducing to me. Maybe if you look at the videos, you will figure out what is going on. Can you post a picture of your bezel?
You have a nice charcoal block and a nice, fairly large butane torch, so I don’t see why solder won’t flow. I don’t think it is the fault of the torch. Just my opinion.
I taught jewellery making to students in the UK for many years using copper sheet and we used mini butane torches without a problem. I did suggest if they were working at home they create a hearth using fire bricks both under and around the item they were soldering. To grind their borax into a thick paste and liberally coat the joint they were soldering. Warm the whole piece, then place their solder pallions (coated in borax) on the join and concentrate the flame on that area.
I use the same process if I am making a small prototype at home but I now cheat and use solder paste, much cleaner and without the faff of borax.
I just did an experiment with two pieces of 18 gauge brass, I don’t have any heavy copper. I simulated soldering a bezel to a back plate with my GT 8000 butane torch. It was the biggest torch I could find at the time I bought it. They are very useful for many heating tasks in a shop. I use it to soften resin and dop wax, keep heat on my ingot mold while melting metal with my bigger torch to be cast in the hot mold and many other times when I need a little heat. I was able to solder the two pieces of brass together after cleaning the joint , doing a lot of preheating to the entire piece and then silver soldering the two pieces of brass together. They are joined well, but it is not a pretty joint. I am sure that you can solder brass or copper with a butane torch and in a pinch, I would do it myself. If you plan on any heavy work like 4 - 8 gauge sheet and wire, you need a bigger, hotter more adjustable torch. From the picture that you have posted, you seem to have spent some money on other tools. Do some research and buy a bigger torch. Keep in mind that your home owners insurance company and the local fire department might have something to say about what you buy. This has been covered well in many posts on this topic. Keep studying, but there is a lot to be learned from doing, failing and figuring out what went wrong. I have been doing it for almost 50 years. Right now I am trying out a new design idea and haven’t made a piece that wasn’t thrown in the scrap pile in two days. Good luck…Rob
All your equipment is fine: charcoal block, cone borax with distilled water, nice reducing flame on your torch, which although not big and bushy, is certainly big enough to melt a snippet of solder in seconds or a copper bezel join! So my guess would be (and this is the most common reason soldering fails) is that the pieces you are soldering are not sufficiently clean.
It was… I did do a successful silver bezel oval connection this morning - thank goodness. But it still took far too long to get it to flow (1 minute or so). I was lucky it flowed at all. Most certainly going to be upgrading to the propane torch and tips. Also I’ll be trying out the barrier flux that you and others have mentioned. I’ll be sure to upload a photo whenever I get around to my first completed pendant! I have taken notes on every single reply here and feel so appreciative of all of you!
it is the blue inner cone tip that is where the heat is hottest, not the bushy outer part
take your torch, point it at the charcoal block, move the flame in and out…watch the charcoal…look for the red hot glow spot to appear…note the distance the tip is at…
Hi again
re my below comment…i should have said the “absorbs and gets saturated” part under the barrier flux section…the barrier flux protects by covering the surface, creating a barrier frim oxygen in torch flame, and absorbing the oxides…
Hi Angela - I do admire your attitude and dedication to detail and process!
One point I cannot see has been addressed is the need to actually clean your solder. Give it a scrub with some clean sandpaper before cutting into paillons, and only cut what you need for the job. Impossible to clean them after cutting!
I have the EZ torch - I am only a hobby jeweller but I really like this one - definitely a step up from the basic propane plumbers torch I started with at night school way back when!
You’re at the beginning of a wonderful journey! This is a great place to start and ask questions.
I’ll often use the barrier flux to lend a protective coating, but still use a paste flux such as Handy on the joints where I want solder to flow. If you prefer to only use one product then Prips would be a good choice. Unfortunately, most products when heated will produce fumes that are best to not inhale. One option would be to wear a respirator with an appropriate cartridge while soldering.
A ventilation system is something to start thinking about. It’s not only the fuel fumes you’ll want to avoid breathing, but those of metals such as zinc and fumes from flux too. Another thing to keep in mind is that propane is heavier than air so it will drop (vs acetylene that is lighter and will rise). If the weather allows for you to have the door open while soldering you may want to consider adding a small fan to actively pull fumes away from you and out the door. I had the option of venting directly outside via a window above my soldering area and use an AC Infinity Cloudline 6 purchased on Amazon along with flexible hose and a 8”-6” duct reducer from Lowe’s. It works a charm.
You’ve received a lot of great information from fellow Orchidians
