if you still are having the same problem, you may need to use a
heat sink on the jump rings.
I'm joining in a bit late on this discussion, but I wanted to share
this not-very-novel but quite useful thing I've tried: I cut small
squares, about 6 mm on a side, from a sheet of 22ga. nickel. After
"dirtying" these up with the torch to curtail soldering to them, I
use the squares to support jump rings and act as a small heat sink
while soldering the rings to a larger object. The jump ring is
placed so that about 2/3 rests on the nickel square, while the other
third, where the join is located, is held above the soldering
surface. The object (say, your bezel) receives most of the heating
during the soldering operation, and just flicking the torch over the
jump ring as the larger piece nears soldering temperature is enough
to make the solder flow and get a good join. Remember that using the
nickel square will raise the jump ring above
the back of the bezel by a 22 ga. thickness - sometimes this is
highly desirable, sometimes not. If you want the ring level with the
back of the bezel, simply place the bezel on a couple of the
squares. This will also help heat flow beneath the piece and prevent
it sticking to your soldering surface. Oh, and remember - don't use
flux or firecoat on the squares or they may end up soldered to your
jump ring.
Another useful thing to do when soldering on jump rings is to file a
small flat spot on the ring, or on the piece, or both if the design
allows. This increases the area of contact between the pieces and
improves the "fit" of the join (and it's all about fit!), making a
stronger connection.
Hope all that helps, and makes sense,
Jessee Smith
www.silverspotstudio.com
