From this side of the internet I would venture the problem is the
bezel is not formed correctly. Others have pointed out that it
needs to be annealed and not a springy alloy and needs to be
thicker rather than paper thin. One other thing, and I just don't
'get' the why of it...but many people seem to think a bezel has to
exactly conform to the stone size/outline, to the point where they
then say, "I put it in for a trial fit and now its stuck!" I have
to stop and ask, WHY would you put yourself through that?
I don’t know about other folks but to me, a perpendicular (finished)
bezel wall is not attractive, this is jewelry not This Old House. A
perpendicular bezel does not hold as well as when the wall is canted
in a little bit. So make the bezel oversize. It won’t get stuck, its
not as sensitive to heat distortion. Besides, if you make a super
tight fit you’ll likely put undue pressure on the girdle and might
meet up with some last minute heartache if the stone chips.
I’d have to have a darned good reason to use anything thinner than
.020" (don’t ask me what gauge that is) and usually I’d prefer
something like .030-.050" (can you see the car geek in me?). If you
think that’s heavy looking you can trim once its done with a pumice
wheel. I have my own pet theory about why super thin sheet warps when
heated or bent. The forces of expansion/contraction manifest
themselves on the surface. The closer the two surfaces are the more
they interact. There’s no mush factor. The surfaces are more locked
together when there’s very little material between them. Just a pet
theory, not science by any means.
So one might ask if the bezel is bigger how do you form it over the
stone? A little at a time. Use a rocker. If you have to use a
burnisher don’t slide it along, rock it with its concave surface
toward the stone(assuming its round or oval). The sliding action will
definitely distort the metal at this point because what are you
doing? You’re stretching it lengthwise, short road to more
springiness. Slide it at the end to finesse the edge, not in the
Some of the tricks mentioned might work, I’ll assume they do. I just
think its better to circumvent a problem before it presents itself.
Less work that way.