Jewelry design - what & where to learn

I’ve just replied to this thread but forgot to mention something
else.

As well as the people who teach jewellery design/making being biased
when it comes to thinking it essential that people take such
classes, many of these teachers have a very unique style of jewellery
and as such are more likely to teach people how to make things
similar to their own design aesthetic.

If taking classes in the making of jewellery, then more generic
classes that teach real world methods of the good old fashioned
techniques, such that you might find in Mr Brepohl’s Theory and
Practice of Goldsmithing, or Mr Revere’s books, etc are the things
that perhaps should be taught. The design side of things should
probably come from each person’s own ideas of what they find
aesthetically pleasing. For those who can’t afford classes (like
myself), then there are numerous examples of very good books from
which you can learn to make jewellery.

Helen
UK

There is no one way to learn. We all pick up things in different
ways. 

I have to agree with Helen in UK here. I am also what would be
considered “self taught”, tho in actuality I did have mentors in the
beginning who taught me the basics of both cabochon cutting and
jewelry fabrication. But no one is really “self-taught”. We all learn
not only from our own experience but from the experiences of others.
To paraphrase a quote that I was told was attributed to Alan Revere,
there are ten basic techniques and ten thousand tricks to jewelry
making. Learn one trick each from ten thousand people and you have
learned ten thousand tricks. You may not be “formally trained” but
you will have had the benefit of learning something from ten thousand
teachers- and that equates to one heck of a lot of experience.

To quote a colloquialism heard frequently on this side of the pond,
“There’s more than one way to skin a cat”. It’s true- there is! :slight_smile:

Kenton Stevens

Helen,

I've noticed a common thread among this topic's responses. Those
who teach classes in jewellery design/making and those who went to
college to learn such things, all seem to think it absolutely
essential to have classes from a knowledgeable and qualified
teacher of such things. I would say they are a tad biased. " (...)
"As well as the people who teach jewellery design/making being
biased when it comes to thinking it essential that people take such
classes, many of these teachers have a very unique style of
jewellery and as such are more likely to teach people how to make
things similar to their own design aesthetic. 

What I’d like to explain here is a bit complicate to express in a
foreign language and I may be blunter than I intend to be.

I appreciated your sense of synthesis, as well as the questionnings
you rise.

Yet, as a design and jewellery graduate and as a design and
jewellery teacher, I feel misunderstood and misrepresented in your
statements (‘offended’ is maybe be a too strong word but still… i
feel upset). I think that you give words to some common
preconceptions about art & design education.

First, I think that ‘Design’ is not something we (as humans)
invented, Nature has it all within her. Thus it cannot be taught like
a recipe, it has to be discovered, understood and assimilated. This
can be achieved in many ways and through many means, _with or
_without attending a school.

The Golden Ratio has been mentionned many times in this thread. I
consider such ‘Rule’ as a valuable knowledge, but to me, it is not an
absolut truth but an attempt (rather successfull) to
understand/achieve perfection. As such the Golden Ratio is more a
guideline than a rule and I know some incredibly talented designers
who are clueless about the Golden Ratio.

Design as it is taught in school, is not about learning and applying
a recipe, it is first of all about learning a process, in other
words, it is not about the shape but about what lead you to this
shape.

Another point is the (un-)distinguinshable border between ‘art’ and
‘design’ or let say ‘aesthetic’ and ‘fonction’ or ‘expession of one’s
creativity’ and ‘constraints’…Something that has to be thought
through, I believe.

More over, as the later has to be understood and assimilated, the
former has to be explored, developped and expressed. Again, these
lines of thougts and experimentations can be acheived in many ways
and through many means, _with or _without attending a school.

Nevertheless, learning and going through all this on one’s own or
not is a tough and lifelong task.

Attending a school may well help…

Being in contact with ‘willing teachers’, students of all kinds,
sharing experiences, confronting works and views, assuming
criticism… all this in a rather short period of time is an
enriching contructive experience. But it does not all!

There are good and bad students, there are good and bad teachers.

Great teacher are not always in a school and not always bear such
title, they can be craftmen, artists, engineers, they can be among a
great community website, they can also be childrens or they can be
trees or even mystical dreams… ( it’s what works for you!)

LEARNING IS MAINLY A STATE OF MIND.

About being a teacher now:

Let me begin with two of my favorite sayings, roughly translated:
‘Learning is finding out that you already know, Taking Action is
showing that you know, Teaching is showing others that they kwon as
well as you do.’ and ‘I serve as I rule, I rule as I serve, I learn
as
I teach, I teach as I learn.’ I think that these phrases really
relate well to Design teaching.

As a teacher, my aim and responsability is to guide students towards
profiecency and autonomy.

It doesn’t always happen in the time I have them under my tuition
but the important thing is to give them tools to achieve this and to
discover which designer/jeweller they are.

Of course students are influenced by their teacher’s style! Although
it is almost inevitable, this is only incidental for the teacher
him/herself is his/her own teaching tool and learning always begins
with imitating. Maturity takes time to be reached!

AND THIS IS TRUE FOR ALL TYPE OF LEARNING, WITH OR WITHOUT
ATTENDING A SCHOOL.

Moreover, you praise apprenticeship, and i agree it is an excellent,
hands on way to learn and to get a real-life experience, but it is
creating more ‘clones’ than degree courses because an apprentice
will work yearlong on his master’s pieces and will not be asked to
explore his own world and produce is own collection…

Is this wrong? NO. Not every one is drawn to ‘art’ or ‘design’
jewellery, exploring the trade through more-technical expertise and
‘traditional’ designs is likewise rewarding, creative and enriching.

And where a ‘traditionnal jewellery’ apprentice will be grounded and
selfconfident a ‘designj ewellery’ graduate might well be far off
the ground and stressed out with is first out-of-school experience,
maybe unable to make what would seem to be a simple repair for an
ex-apprentice.

On the other hand, where self taught jewellers are complitely free
and innovative in their learning path, they often get stuck either
technically, designwise or both because they lack design and art
culture or technical refencences. (fortunately orchid exists).

Opposing apprenticeship, design degree course and self teaching is a
mistake.

It’s all about exploring the same world. There is no ‘better-way’ to
do it. We are all complementary The proof of this is in this very
forum and the ganoksin project longevity and succes.

sorry Orchidians, this one is a very long post…

Salut,
Juliette Arda
Artiste-bijoutiere
Aix en Provenvce, France

And it is worth noting that all methods of learning have produced
very good jewellers who make very good, salable jewellery. By the
same token, I'm sure that all methods have also produced people who
are not so good. 

I began working in silver in 1990 with a torch I found at a pawn shop
and a couple of books. There were years of trial and
error,error,error… In 2003 I began college and took my first real
art classes, including metals (2005). (They had more equipment than
I.) I took design classes, art history, drawing, pottery,
watercolor,. etc… but there was nothing about how to make a living
doing what you love. It was art for art’s sake and some of the
instructors became frustrated with those who wanted/needed to market
their work. I am still struggling with the business side and tend to
take the “Scarlet O’Hara” approach; “I’ll worry about that tomorrow.”
Because I am fairly shy I don’t enjoy the marketing side and usually
demonstrate at shows instead of doing the selling. The fact of the
matter is that I work at a “regular” part-time job so I can support
my passion. I try to remember that it’s not that people don’t like my
work but that most haven’t seen it.

Bobbie Horn

The design side of things should probably come from each person's
own ideas of what they find aesthetically pleasing. 

My take on this has always been the same - there is always more to
know. I don’t want to challenge anyone - many people are happy in
their niche or whatever they are doing, and that’s a good thing. I
do want to challenge people in the sense that there is always more
to know. It is easy to make stuff up. You could tell a child to make
a ring out of age-appropriate materials and they could do it. It is,
as was said a while back, much more difficult to work within
constraints, and that’s what takes real ability. I have two jobs
that illustrate it pretty well that I’ve had in mind for this
thread. Either would make a good exercise for anybody who’s
interested.

First is a new father who wants a bracelet for his wife - this is
done and delivered at this point. It must be:

14kt white gold, $1500 or less wholesale (gold cost was around $250
in the end), a bangle type, which means a catch and hinge,
contemporary styling as he likes a certain Cartier bracelet, which
we will emulate but not copy, incorporating his 4mm x 2mm baguette
and amethyst, which is the baby’s birthstone. Also it must be
original and custom looking, because that’s the whole point.

The second piece is coming up - some sort of bale or hanger for an
antique pierced pendant of a generic Edwardian style. This will have
to be made in keeping with the style of the pendant, meaning that we
have to understand the style - no titanium here.

Those jobs are what some of us have to do - work within constraints
and still make everything be beautiful and original. It’s easy to
just make one’s own work and just trip out as one likes, it’s much
more difficult to work within some defined discipline. I’m not saying
there’s a right or wrong or better or worse, it’s just that the field
of jewelry design is pretty vast, and thinking that it means only
making your own way is pretty limited. Helen, who is the quote above,
seems to have a good perspective on how much there is to explore - my
issue is with some, and some instructors, who don’t have that
broadness of vision. For some instructor to say “Just trip out,
follow your muse”, is pretty limited, though it seems “free” at first
glance. Especially if one is looking to become employable in the
end…

Dear Juliette,

I’m really sorry my post offended you. My intent is to NEVER offend
or upset others so please accept my apologies. Perhaps my post was
as biased as I was saying other are. But I actually think we more in
agreement than disagreement.

The Golden Ratio has been mentionned many times in this thread. I
consider such 'Rule' as a valuable knowledge, but to me, it is not
an absolut truth but an attempt (rather successfull) to
understand/achieve perfection. As such the Golden Ratio is more a
guideline than a rule and I know some incredibly talented
designers who are clueless about the Golden Ratio. 

Yes, I was the first one to mention the Golden Ratio and believe it
or not I learned about it at design college, so I’ve been there and
done that myself so do know the value of taking classes and believe
me, if I had the available funds, I’d be the first to sign up to a
jewellery making degree course so I’m not knocking classes at all,
just saying that those who go to college and those who teach are
perhaps biased and perhaps think that it is essential to learn from
such a class. I may very well be wrong, but I was just voicing my
observations. I will always stand corrected if I am wrong or
misrepresent someone.

There are good and bad students, there are good and bad teachers.

Yes, I agree and I made a similar point to yours. I said that all
methods of learning: classes; apprenticeships or being self taught,
all produce good jewellers and bad jewellers.

Great teacher are not always in a school and not always bear such
title, they can be craftmen, artists, engineers, they can be among
a great community website, they can also be childrens or they can
be trees or even mystical dreams... ( it's what works for you!) 

Again, I said the same thing - that we all learn in different ways.
Also that we are not all in a position to take classes but that does
NOT mean that we cannot become proficient in making jewellery that
is salable and desirable.

Moreover, you praise apprenticeship, and i agree it is an
excellent, hands on way to learn and to get a real-life experience,
but it is creating more 'clones' than degree courses because an
apprentice will work yearlong on his master's pieces and will not
be asked to explore his own world and produce is own collection... 

Yes I see your point. I’d not thought of it quite like that. But they
are at least more prepared for life in the jewellery industry as far
as real life skills but yes they are perhaps not given the chance to
explore their own world.

And yes indeed thank goodness for Orchid. I am “self-taught” but have
learned a vast amount of my knowledge from Orchid and its
participants. So you could say Orchid is my teacher, which probably
proves KPK right when he said that “the idea that you can read Orchid
and become a jeweller is rife”, and makes me look quite silly, but I
don’t mind looking silly. But I never did think I could read Orchid
and become a jeweller, and don’t really know whether his comment was
directed at me in particular or was just general. I taught myself to
make jewellery and was making for a few months before I even joined
Orchid so I stand by my original opinion that such beliefs are not
rife at all.

Juliette, you and I are probably more in agreement than you realise.

I wasn’t having a go at teachers. I was a teacher myself. I was
merely saying that there are many different ways to learn. My
original post was in reaction to someone who expressed an opinion
that it was essential to attend classes to become a jeweller, and
yet another opinion that people seem to think you can read Orchid and
voilla you’re a jeweller. I was attempting to put forward another
perspective. Kenton understood what I was saying.

Sorry for treading on toes.

Helen
UK

It’s the business side of things (as well as lots of techniques I’ve
either not yet tried or not yet accomplished) that I am lacking in
also. People are buying my jewellery but it is the marketing,
accounts, etc that I am not confident on.

Helen
UK

I have to agree with Helen in UK here. I am also what would be
considered "self taught", tho in actuality I did have mentors in
the beginning who taught me the basics of both cabochon cutting and
jewelry fabrication. But no one is really "self-taught". We all
learn not only from our own experience but from the experiences of
others. 

Absolutely right. Although I say I’m self-taught, since joining
Orchid I’ve learned so much from everyone here and you have all
helped me grow enormously (in jewellery making that is - it’s my own
fault I’m fat! :wink: )

Helen
UK

Dear John,

Helen, who is the quote above, seems to have a good perspective on
how much there is to explore - my issue is with some, and some
instructors, who don't have that broadness of vision. 

Thank you for clarifying that. I did originally think you were
referring to me as it was my words you quoted. You’ve said to me
before never to think there is nothing more to learn, as though I
gave the impression that I know it all. I will NEVER assume that I
know it all. I have always believed and will always believe that
there is more to learn. In fact if I think about the vastness of the
so far unlearned “stuff”, it can be more than a little daunting! We
learn until the day we die, but until then we must carry on and
enjoy exploring the possibilities.

Sorry if this post comes across as a little paranoid. I’m feeling
more than a little delicate today after having a day-long argument
with a certain not so gentle gentleman of another forum. I’m left
more than a little upset after he has repeatedly called me a
hypocrite and a liar and rubbished the hallmarking agencies and laws
of the UK and also those of Denmark too It shouldn’t have got to me
but it did I’m afraid. I was upset with myself for allowing this
person to make me behave like a child in a playground. I received
lots of emails offlist from members of the group who were in
agreement with me, and I suggested that they join Orchid instead.

So please forgive my paranoia.

Helen
UK

a bangle type, which means a catch and hinge 

a bangle bracelet can be a solid circle of metal without a catch and
hinge. My wife has 22kt. bangle bracelets traditionally worn by women
in India.

Richard Hart

In 2003 I began college and took my first real art classes,
including metals (2005). I took design classes, art history,
drawing, pottery, watercolor,. etc... but there was nothing about
how to make a living doing what you love. It was art for art's sake
and some of the instructors became frustrated with those who
wanted/needed to market their work. 

what bobbie is saying supports the need for responsibility and
disclosure in higher education. as much as i firmly believe in the
importance of an art education and it is a plus if it is included in
ones life, in any degree major, be it business, science, athletics
etc…none are complete without art !

i am 100% correct in my argument and the art administrators know it!

sombody needs to start holding thier feet to a very hot fire on this
point, universities and colleges need to do one of two things,
either.

#1 require students who are planning to be art and jewelry majors
sign an informed consent form that 99% of them will not be able to
find a job after college as “a jeweler”

#2 start forcing these kids to suck it up and round out thier
education with business and or other back up plan.

take a look at the argument of why sports majors are forced to keep
up thier grades? i can promise publicly that if colleges in the
united states of america made money off of art the way they make
money off of football things would be alot different

goo

And it is worth noting that all methods of learning have produced
very good jewellers who make very good, salable jewellery. 

I keep writing on this thread, and forgetting one of the most
important aspects of working with other people, and especially an
apprentiship or job, and that is that people don’t challenge
themselves, they take the easy way out almost always. That’s not
exactly true, because I know I went out and learned all sorts of
things by myself. Where it is true is when you are sitting at the
bench and the foreman comes over and says, “Do this. I don’t care if
you’ve never done it before, and I don’t care if it’s not your
‘preferred’ work, just do it.” That’s how you learn beyond what you
would learn flying solo, both in design and technique. Making up your
own designs can be very fulfilling - being able to make anything
including stuff you never would have thought of yourself is even more
so.

On the other hand, where self taught jewellers are complitely free
and innovative in their learning path, they often get stuck either
technically, designwise or both because they lack design and art
culture or technical refencences. (fortunately orchid exists). 

Juliette puts things in a very fine perspective with perfectly fine
English, too. To paraphrase a quote I heard once, There is something
ponderous and boring about self-taught works. That’s not a
condemnation. It’s one of the main reasons I have been very active on
this thread, is to diplomatically suggest that one cannot know it
all, by oneself. The ponderous part of the quote is that there’s
often or usually no variety or breadth to that sort of work - the
quote referred to musicians who play all the instruments in a
recording. This morning in the paper was an article about a game
developer’s job fair that was here, and several people very
diplomatically said that the schools “were not preparing students for
employment”, and one of the biggest reasons cited was that they don’t
learn teamwork. Now, I am a jeweler, and well rounded at the bench,
but I am also a part of a team, and have been for many years. People
may think, and I think many DO think, that there’s some advantage to
“doing your own thing”, but that is actually limiting. It is the
learning from our peers and betters, not just by talking to them but
by working alongside them, that gives us skills and knowlege greater
than we could ever find if left to our own devices. When I see many
artists, such as here on Orchid, who have an attitude of, “No, I only
do MY designs”, I just cringe, although I have no arguement with how
anybody wants to work for themselves. But then I look at their work,
and it all looks the same, and the ceiling of their skills is not
especially high, and I just sigh and think what they could do if they
reached outside themselves… Oh, well, nobody asked me, so I just
keep on going…

I’m going to chime in on the ‘design’ question. Taking classes is
only one way to learn design. One can also learn design form looking
at the work of others, especially the work done in the past. I love
history and I’m in a historical recreation group. I collect and
borrow books that deal with Rome, other ancient civilizations, the
Middle Ages and the Renisance. These may on jewelry, armor,
illumination or any of many other themes (one of my finds-was a book
on the Roman calavry). I read them, study the artifacts pictured,
research how they made their work, ect. I often get comments that
some of my work has a Victorian ‘feel’ to them. This bothered me,
for awhile, because that is one period that I don’t study. Then it
dawned on me! My work resemble their work, because I was looking at
the same sources that influenced them.! Now, it seems that my work
has an Art Noveau feel. That was were the Victorians went, with those
same influences. I didn’t take college classes in art, I took classes
in math and science. What I learned there, also influences my work.
My clay work has very definate connections to geology. Each of us are
the sum of our lives, what we learn from classes, from our own
research, and from the interactions with other artists. There is no
right or wrong way. Some folks will learn from others quicker, but
they may not be as adventurous in what they do. I remember being
told, that you had to have an annealing kiln to raise brass. I knew
that I could raise it some, just by heating it on my kitchen stove,
so I made a couple of simple salt cellers. I, personally prefer to
learn on my own, I think that it keeps my work fresher and
different. You know that you are doing something right when someone,
comes up and tells you that they had looked at all the booths, at a
show, and they hadn’t ween anything that they wanted, until they saw
your work. And now they want that piece and that one and that one and
the one over there! This happened yesterday.

Cairenn, the Howling Artist
www.howlingartist.com

"Do this. I don't care if you've never done it before, and I don't
care if it's not your 'preferred' work, just do it." That's how you
learn beyond what you would learn flying solo, both in design and
technique. 

Yes, that does sound a little scary John, and something I’d never
thought of. Mind you, you can still get a little taste of that when
someone asks you to do something with something they already own, be
it a repair or rebuild.

Helen
UK

I can’t argue (nor do I want to) with anything you say. All your
points and Juliette’s points about the limitations of teaching
oneself are true and as I said, if I had the funds I would be the
first to sign up for a course in jewellery making, but sadly I am
limited by my funds (and my health) and so I will also probably be
limited in the way you describe - but I constantly look at other’s
work to broaden my horizons so as to limit that limitation - if you
get what I mean! :wink:

Mine is just a different journey to those of you who learned via
classes or apprenticeships.

Helen
UK

It is interesting that one of the worlds most famous and sought
after industrial and interior designers Australian Marc Newson
confesses to being a self taught designer. His Lockheed lounger
settee (his first piece after leaving university) sold recently for
over UKP 600,000 ($1,200,000) He has also designed aircraft
interiors, concept cars and furniture. He did however initially
obtained a degree as a jeweller !!!

Robin Key
Clavis Jewellery
Aberdeen, Scotland

a bangle bracelet can be a solid circle of metal without a catch
and hinge. 

It’s actually hinged or not. It is a full circle, where a cuff is cut
out at the bottom.

I have been reading the answers to this question with interest and
because I teach I thought I should write back and address some
recent comments.

Some of you are right about being self taught. There is no doubt in
my mind that if you are determined enough and have an enormous amount
of free time you can teach yourself a lot of things. If you are so
inclined to reinvent the wheel then do it!.. but why? Yes, you may
eventually accomplish the same goals if you are absolutely dedicated
and have the understanding to push forward and grasp the concept of
what is happening and learn what to do next to solve your problems on
your own…but is it realistic? Many aspiring jewelers simply
don’t have that time and total devotion to do it alone.

The reason I advise people to take courses is that it simplifies the
process of learning difficult tasks like soldering and allows you the
opportunity to move on faster. Good teachers are dedicated
individuals that are there to answer questions and give students the
benefit of their experience. It is often a selfless act and not very
profitable. I like to think that I also challenge my students to
think for themselves and understand why things work the way they do.
Understanding the process lets students move to a higher level. You
don’t have to make every mistake in the book to come up with an
acceptable answer. I get experienced students who become stuck and
sometimes simple suggestions can make them change their approach
completely… Sharing knowledge provides inspiration you don’t get
working by your self.

Formal education may not be the answer for everyone but it
definitely speeds learning along and develops confidence. The skills
you will acquire are an investment in your future. It may be a bit
painful to pay to learn but I know from students who take courses
they are grateful that they did. Hit or miss methods take time and
energy and cause unnecessary frustration.

As far as I am concerned getting a good education is still the best
answer

Marilynn Nicholson
Taos School of Metalsmithing & Lapidary Design

sign an informed consent form that 99% of them will not be able to
find a job after college as "a jeweler" 

Well, maybe 1%. I had in mind to write a little mental exercise
to illuminate some of what this thread is about. Let’s call it a job
interview - strictly rhetorical. Here we are gathered in a room,
some numbers of people applying for the job. Your interview is simple

  • here’s a 12" (300cm) long piece of annealed, 14 gauge 18kt. gold
    wire, and you are to show me all that you can do with it. It’s
    rhetorical because almost anybody can do 1000 things with it, but
    there are some generalities that will happen. The first group will
    bend and cut the wire and form shapes of all kinds with it. The next
    group will take it a step further and make compound curves with it -
    arcs in the x-y axis, and also into the z axis. In my experience
    what most universities teach students is up to there, or a bit more.
    Yes, they teach other stuff, but this is what to do with 12" of wire
    only. The next group will do some of the same things but will be able
    to break through the wire-ness of the wire by hammering it, shaping
    it and contouring it so it no longer looks like wire in the end. Now
    we’re getting somewhere, and that’s approaching what goldsmiths do.
    The last group will melt the wire and use the rolling mill to make
    THEIR shape, and those are the ones we will hire. That is why I keep
    plugging the rolling mill, and stressing that while there’s nothing
    wrong with mill products there IS something wrong with a dependance
    on them. That is craftsmanship, and how it is related to design, and
    how it has little to do with how many toys you have to play with in
    your shop. Again, fundamental stuff.