Jewelry design - what & where to learn

Jewelry Discussion
61

Unfortunately what is lost in Marilynn Nicholson’s reply is the
ability for the reader toeither see or hold one of her pieces. I saw
a presentation by her at the AlbuquerqueSnag conference some years
ago. Her pieces are somwhat larger in size than what I was used to
seeing. The combinationof lapidary work, design, and metalsmithing
was overwhelming to me. The dozens of samples of catches and
mechanisms presented ideas translated in a broad scope of solutions
thatwere new and challenging to my mind. Her work is stunning in the
design and combination of techiques used by her to acomplish the work
she produces. Go to her website, see the pictures, read her
bio…they are indeed collages, magnificent collages.

I have posted quite a few times trying to stress that self taught
has limitations in two areas. One is how fast one can aquire skill.
Learning curve is much longer.

Don’t know about y’all, but as I have aged, getting a running start
when I was much younger would have moved me quite farther in my
process. I believe I would be achieveing what I am doing now 20
years ago.

The other area is design. I believe very few people have the ability
to achieve quality of design and metalsmithing technique on their
own. Over 40 years of seeing work by those who are self taught I
have seen very few people overcome their own limitations, it is like
watching the reinvention of the wheel, and I have seen a lot of
square wheels. The ability for those who learn on their own to be
redundant does not seem to be a recommendation to learn by our own
liminations and mistakes. My self included.

Over the years I have been amazed that some people do not have the
ability to see how limited they are in either technique or design. Or
both. Some people can take a few simple ingredients and make a
delicious meal, some can take gourmet ingredients and make a meal
that
is unenjoyable.

If your goal is to be a technician and solder and set stones you
only need to learn basic skills and whack away. If you want to
express yourself creatively, you need education in metal techniques
and design.

I think if we were to be able to observe the work of those that are
self taught in relation to those that had instruction there might be
something observable to make a judgement about what the benefit of
learning from those more skilled would be. More interesting would be
the progression over time of those self taught and those that took
classes or workshops.

Over the years my work progressed as I was exposed to workshops and
classes by Harold O’Connor, Michael Good, Helen Longhi, Andy
Cooperman, Carrie Adele, Marilyn Desilva, Jerry Scavezze and Marni
Ryan. I have never had a regret for money or time spent Part of the
thrill of taking classes or workshops is to be around other people
who have very different ways of approaching the same work from
different perspectives. Some workshops introduced me to my potential
and some to my limitations. One thing to consider. If you are wanting
or needing to make money from your metalworking abilities, the faster
you learn and the more you practice to achieve skill results in more
money.

I have heard a few people comment of Blaine Lewis’s ability to teach
those who have been setting for many years techniques to do their
work faster and better.

4:37 a.m., this or infommercials. p.s. Watch the video with Helen
Longhi http://tinyurl.com/26tjjc

Richard Hart

62 
Some of you are right about being self taught. There is no doubt
in my mind that if you are determined enough and have an enormous
amount of free time you can teach yourself a lot of things.

I suppose as one who keeps harping on about being self-taught and
how it can work, I’d better explain a little. A few years ago, I was
signed off work due to illness, although it was a while before my
illness was actually diagnosed as Addison’s disease. It’s a rare
disease that surprisingly my brother and myself suffer from and it
has left us both with extremely unreliable health where we might be
able to work for a day or two but can then be too unwell for the next
few days. Although no one would wish to have such an illness, it has
been somewhat of a cloud with a silver lining for me in that I have
lots of time on my hands with which I can now pursue the making of
jewellery - something I’ve wanted to do for many years but never had
the time to do up to now.

If I had the money and the health, I’d enroll on a degree course and
learn goldsmithing but sadly I don’t, so I have to do the best I
can. I don’t see it as reinventing the wheel. As I see it, I am
learning new skills but tailoring the process to fit my needs. I get
frustrated when I’ve got lots of ideas but haven’t got the good
health and strength to try them out. But teaching myself (with the
help of Orchid of course) is the perfect way for me to accomplish my
goals. In any case, it’s a good job I have so much time - how else
would I be able to read all the Orchid posts and reply to some of
them?! :wink:

I know that teaching oneself has its limitations but I’m doing my
best not to limit myself too much and am open to new ideas and
techniques. I strive to be the best I can and don’t like anything to
beat me, which is why I sometimes appear to be trying to run before I
can even crawl.

The reason I advise people to take courses is that it simplifies
the process of learning difficult tasks like soldering and allows
you the opportunity to move on faster.

I think I’ve been fortunate in that I picked up the technique of
soldering very quickly. Sure I had problems with it and sometimes
still do but I usually find ways to overcome them - often thanks to
Orchid. In fact I think my first post was asking for such help. But
I’d been reading about how to do it and the pitfalls and how to
avoid them, for months before I got my hands on the materials and had
a go, so the first time I tried to solder two bits of metal together,
I succeeded in soldering two bits of metal together. I’ve learned all
manner of tricks and tips since which have made the job even easier.
Perhaps it was the scientist in me that meant when I was reading
about the process, I understood the materials and how they behaved
and it all made sense to me. Beginner’s luck maybe, who knows?

Anyway, I’m waffling again as usual. But that’s why I’m self taught
as opposed to taking classes.

Helen
UK

63

Hi Helen!

Kenton here in New Mexico. I’ve been following the teaching debate
between you, John and Juliette and just wanted to say that technique
is important- and can be learned in a variety of formats. As with you
budget is a concern (I’m on disability) so I understand where you’re
coming from. Personally, since what we do is a creative endeavor, I
believe the first and most important aspect of jewelry design is
staying in touch with one’s “creativity”. Technical aspects of actual
construction of one’s designs can be learned simply by asking
questions and, if possible, watching others execute their own.
Suggesting the route one should take in learning jewelry design is
one thing, sharing what one has learned with others is another matter
entirely. We’re all at different skill levels (I’m no master either)
but we all have learned things that we can teach. So if you have any
questions that I can answer I’d be more than happy to share what I
have learned with you. All you need to do is ask!

Did you know you can solder a bead to a curved or slanted piece by
super-gluing it with super-glue gel (“Gel” is the operative word
here) to the piece, then fluxing it (after the glue dries) and
setting your solder pallions in place and torching it? I don’t use
the technique often but I’ve never had a finding move on me when I
did! And some guy that never taught or took a jewelry class taught me
that trick, lol!

Yep, there’s a bunch of tricks that they probably don’t teach you in
a jewelry design class. Classes are good but they aren’t totally
necessary!

Anyway, keep up with the good work, stay in touch with your creative
spirit and enjoy your creativity. Like I said if I can be of any
benefit or help let me know and I’ll answer any questions that you
have if I can.

Enjoy!
Kenton.

64 
if I had the funds I would be the first to sign up for a course in
jewellery making, but sadly I am limited by my funds (and my
health) and so I will also probably be limited in the way you
describe

I for one have tried to stress in this thread that there is no
“right” way, and surely anyone can do whatever they please in terms
of jewelry design and get no grief from me. The point to be driven
home in the above context is more one of attitudes - that jewelry
schools don’t put out jewelers, they put out apprentices. A chef said
the same thing about cooking schools, just lately. And, while trying
to not step on toes, I’ve been trying to keep people’s eyes open.
Once you think you have learned it, you stop learning. Again, Helen,
who is the above quote, doesn’t seem to have any of these problems.
It would be pretty accurate to say that our company uses what most
would call “classical goldsmithing” methods, which doesn’t mean we
don’t use a computer, too. There are very few schools, and no
Universities that I’m aware of, that teach those methods to begin
with. The route in is through either those few schools, or the lucky
apprenticeship or entry level job.

65 
Do this. I don't care if you've never done it before, and I don't
care if it's not your 'preferred' work, just do it." That's how you
learn beyond what you would learn flying solo, both in design and
technique.

I think there is a confusion between “design” and “composition”
While any design is also a composition, the reverse is not true. The
chance of arriving at design by mindlessly combining are the same, as
the chance of tying monkey to piano and hoping that noise resulting
from monkey trying to free herself would be a symphony.

Leonid Surpin

66

Hello all

I’ve been reading all your posts now for several months, and just
suddenly decided to join in. I have to say that I’ve been interested
in a lot of what you all talk about, sometimes I actually answer to
myself. I myself was an art major in college, studied jewelry,
drawing, sculpture, etc. here in the states as well as in Italy.
When I graduated (way back in the early '80s) I was lucky enough to
find a job in a trade shop, learn as you go. I worked in manufacture
and repair until 1996, when I suddenly found myself as the sole
goldsmith for a small town jewelry store, owned by a gemologist.
Shock to the system! Eight years of being goldsmith, designer, repair
person, sales person, and store manager finally convinced me to try
it on my own.

So, Christmas 2003 I opened my very own store (with my business
partner-she does all the “business” stuff, I do all the "jewelry"
stuff). And we love it! She had managed her fathers jewelry store
until he retired, we really work well together. So, all I have to
say is get as much info from as many sources as you can, there are so
many different ways to accomplish whatever it is you want to do!
Even though I no longer have other jewelers aroung to share ideas
with, I’m sure I’m still learning something new regularly (those
challenging customers with their off-the-wall ideas). Sometimes I
just have to sleep on a problem or idea to see the solution, they
sure can keep you on your toes! And, just as a side note-since
hearing good things about the Karat rolling mill on your posts, I’ve
ordered one, so I’ll let you all know how I like it.

Stef Shoemaker, Bella Creations

67

Helen; I have been following this post for a long time And don’t want
to agree or disagree with anything said as far as how to learn.
However I would like to make a few comments and ask a question. I am
mostly self taught however over the years I have taken a few weekend
and week long workshops to learn specific techniques. While these
classes cost anywhere from 100.00 to 1,000.00 dollars I have always
felt I got my moneys worth. Not only did I learn what to do and what
not to do benefiting from others trial and error I also learned all
kind of additional things from sharing with the other students. I
always made a point to come away from the class with enough finished
pieces to at least partially recover my expenses. I also teach
classes and I while I have a basic course outline I try to customize
it to the wants, needs and abilities of the students. I personally
feel that especially now with the price of metal taking this type of
class more than pays for itself in time I would have lost and messed
up attempts trying to get a technique right. My question is this. In
the US workshops are pretty widely available. What about in the UK?
If they aren’t it might be an opportunity for someone to make it
happen I have friends who have done just that. For their putting it
together they get to attend for free. Another thing I’ve seen tried
is just to do a weekend with a group of jewelers to swap info and
share techniques. Just a few things to consider.

Dave

68

Hi

There is something ponderous and boring about self-taught works.
That's not a condemnation. It's one of the main reasons I have been
very active on this thread, is to diplomatically suggest that one
cannot know it all, by oneself

In warmer weather, I spend time in my garage working with metal. I
would spend just about all of my day (8:30 the kids go on the bus,
3:40 they get off the bus) working on, possibly, a ring, maybe
setting a cab. At the end of this day, my head hurt, I was tired, but
so proud to be able to produce what is probably a very mediocre
setting. I would proudly show it to my husband. The first few times
he said “that’s really nice. you did that all today?..that’s really
nice” After a few times he said “Kim, you can’t live in a bubble.
You’re never going to go anywhere with this if you keep spending all
day reinventing the wheel.”

What would you do if you wanted to become a lawyer, a doctor, an
accountant(geez, why would you want to do that?)…You would go to
the financial aid office at the appropriate institution and you would
take a loan and you would commence on a 4 year (or longer) journey
into your chosen field…

Why the reluctance to show this same commitment (financial
commitment) to the arts? Is jewelry frivolous? Is it socially
unacceptable to have to learn from someone else? Is it secondary to
the more “serious” occupations?

I am regretting that it took me so long to realize that I only go
around one time. If jewelry is what you want to do (this is only my
opinion so please…) then you do what it takes to learn it. Lots of
things are hard. Imagine how many people (accountants, lawyers,
doctors) are out there doing what they don’t want to do because what
they really wanted was not considered (I am lacking words
here)…what? what do we consider jewelry?

Kim Starbard
http://www.kimstarbarddesigns.com

69

Dear Richard,

It’s probably my paranoia rearing its ugly head again, but I do
sometimes feel a little downtrodden when I get involved in threads
like this one, especially as I’m the one (or one of a few) who keeps
harping on about the advantages of being self taught or at least the
fact that it is actually possible to be self taught and have some
sort of business or niche in one’s own way. This is why I said in the
beginning that I think the class taught jewellers are more than a
little biased - they can’t see another way. But like I said a while
back, there is rubbish produced by both camps, the self taught and
the class taught and conversely there is very good work produced by
the two camps as well. We can disagree until the cows come home but
this route is the only one available to me at the moment - I’ve
posted the reasons why separately.

The other area is design. I believe very few people have the
ability to achieve quality of design and metalsmithing technique on
their own. Over 40 years of seeing work by those who are self
taught I have seen very few people overcome their own limitations,
it is like watching the reinvention of the wheel, and I have seen a
lot of square wheels. The ability for those who learn on their own
to be redundant does not seem to be a recommendation to learn by
our own liminations and mistakes. My self included.

I’ve studied design at college so I can apply that to my self
learning of metal work. As I keep saying too, I constantly look at
other’s work in order to not limit myself design-wise and to try to
think outside the box. Being self taught does not necessarily mean
shutting oneself away without any design training whatsoever and
plugging away by yourself and coming up with rubbish. Nor would
classes guarantee that I would be more successful.

If your goal is to be a technician and solder and set stones you
only need to learn basic skills and whack away. If you want to
express yourself creatively, you need education in metal
techniques and design.

Richard, everything you say is so adamant and rigid. Not everybody
NEEDS such training or can get such training. Try to be a little
more open minded about the different approaches people take. When I
post on this forum, I try to offer opinion rather than categorical
fact because everything I say is after all, just my opinion and so is
what you say your opinion.

I think if we were to be able to observe the work of those that
are self taught in relation to those that had instruction there
might be something observable to make a judgement about what the
benefit of learning from those more skilled would be. More
interesting would be the progression over time of those self taught
and those that took classes or workshops.

I can’t argue and don’t want to argue with this paragraph. What you
say there is indeed valid and it’s why I would take a course of
lessons were I in a position to do so. I would certainly learn more
quickly. My techniques such as soldering and finishing and stone
setting would be better than they are at present (although I’m
obviously striving to improve constantly) and I would probably have
more confidence in my abilities. Just see it that I’m on a journey
to the same (hopefully) destination as others, but I’m taking the
scenic route, whereas others have less time and want to arrive more
quickly and so are taking the more direct route.

If you are wanting or needing to make money from your metalworking
abilities, the faster you learn and the more you practice to achieve
skill results in more money.

I personally don’t feel I’m necessarily ready to start a business as
such but I have people who are asking me to make custom pieces for
them because they love what I’m doing. I’ve lost count of the number
of people who have seen me wearing something I’ve made and asked if
I have a website with my jewellery for sale. So I am confident that
when I’m ready, I will be able to make some money out of this whole
thing - that is when I will actually start charging reasonable
prices, including labour, etc. At the moment, while I’m learning, I’m
treating it as a hobby and if someone wants me to make something for
them, I do but I’m only charging enough to cover the materials and
sundry costs I incur like consumables (polish, etc) and electricity.

As far as technique and the quality of my workmanship are concerned,
I am NEVER truly happy with any piece for one reason or another. I
always wish a certain aspect of it were better than it is, and so
the next time I make something I improve because of that striving for
quality. I won’t name names but my first customer was a member of
Orchid in the US. We’d been chatting via email and I sent her some
pictures of things I’d made. She loved one pendant and so I offered
to make one for her. She happily ordered the pendant from me and I
made it for her and shipped it across the pond. She received it last
week and was absolutely thrilled with it and said that “everything
about it is perfect” so I’m doing something right. I apologise to my
first customer for using you as an example but I’m trying to point
out to Richard that some of us self taught people can actually make
things that are salable.

I’m trying not to be paranoid and feel downtrodden and not take
things so personally. But I am finding with this thread that people
are giving the impression or even saying in a slightly less direct
way “you can’t learn metalsmithing on your own - it just won’t work.
You can’t be a jeweller if you teach yourself - you MUST have classes
to be in our club”. This is how it feels. Conversely, I feel that the
majority of people on Orchid have made me very welcome indeed and
many have said that they enjoy my posts and so I do feel it is
worthwhile hanging around despite some people making me feel a little
out of place. My journey in metalsmithing is going to be a long one -
until I’m too old to work metal anymore but I’ll enjoy the scenery as
I go.

Helen
UK

70 
If I had the money and the health, I'd enroll on a degree course
and learn goldsmithing but sadly I don't

Helen and all — The topic of this thread is basically “How to
Become a Jewelry Designer”. For myself, I have been trying to
hopefully be inspirational and hopefully help people look beyond
their own limits. All of the big jewelry houses (Cartier, Van Cleef)
have a Jewelry Designer on staff, or more than one. When you get to
someone like Yurman, who’s designs are fairly simple and highly
derivative, you actually have even more - jewelry design for
production, which opens up issues like mold shrinkage and product
throughput and more. Systems design, basically. That whole arena is
what any college course in jewelry design really should be about,
but I’ve never heard of one that is, in reality, which I believe is
a factor in the migration of jewelry jobs to Asia, but that’s
another issue. Perhaps what some call Art Jewelry is lots of fun and
makes some individuals a living or more, but it won’t get you a job
anywhere - just not in touch with the industry at all, mostly. It’s
pretty sad… If anyone wants to show me wrong on those thoughts,
I’d be happy to hear of a bright side…

On the other hand, there are those like Helen, who are either
hobbyists or more or have aspirations of being more, but aren’t
looking to be quite so lofty or dedicated. I know that what I think
doesn’t mean so much, but I’d say, “Good for you, do as best as you
can, nice work!” And I would mean it. Not everybody has to do it all

  • there’s really no level where it becomes ratified and validated. If
    you’re doing what you want to do and having fun and maybe even
    getting paid for it sometimes, then good for you. Don’t take the
    discussions of a professional, career oriented designer as pressure
    on you to BE something you don’t really want to be. There’s room for
    everybody.
71

After reading and mulling on this topic, I feel I’m now ready to
jump in.

First, for those who say that design “can’t be taught” or “can’t be
learned” I say HOGWASH. Just as drawing can be taught – by a teacher
who knows HOW, and to a student who is receptive to putting aside
preconceived notions and learning – design can definitely be taught.

I’ve had the pleasure of taking an excellent 2-day design class with
Alan Revere… he travels around the country and does it. There’s an
offering of it coming up in Southeaster PA in April if anyone’s
interested: http://www.pagoldsmiths.org/workshops.html

During that class, he covers the range of disciplines and techniques
that help you “get out of your own way” and design in a “pure”
sense… without censoring yourself during the design phase of the
process with things like “but how much metal will i need” or “how
will i ever make that part.” It’s VERY hands-on, but not with jewelry
tools and not in a jewelry studio setting, for very good reason…
gets you out of relying on what you think you know and how you
currently approach things and into a new zone where you’re relying
only on design.

He covers everything from how to come up with ideas (multiple
techniques) to quick and nearly free prototyping techniques. And a
large part of the class talks about principles of balance and
fluidity that comprise good design without going into the
mathematical theory of the Golden Mean and such.

I can very honestly say that the money I spend on that workshop was
one of the very best investments I’ve made in my jewelry
education…EVER. That reassures me that there are methodologies for
teaching design that work and work well. I’ve incorporated some of
his techniques into my own teaching in digital imaging and in jewelry
and see my students achieving “a-ha” moments with them on a regular
basis.

Hope this helps!
Karen Goeller
No Limitations Designs
Hand-made, one-of-a-kind jewelry
www.nolimitations.com

72

Hi Kenton,

Thank you so much for the support you’ve given me. It means a lot.
And thanks for the offer of help if I have any questions. I’ll more
than likely take you up on that offer.

We're all at different skill levels (I'm no master either) but we
all have learned things that we can teach.

Very true and even I have been able to offer the odd little bit of
insight to a few who have a little less experience than me (although
I’ve not much myself) and

Did you know you can solder a bead to a curved or slanted piece by
super-gluing it with super-glue gel ("Gel" is the operative word
here) to the piece, then fluxing it (after the glue dries) and
setting your solder pallions in place and torching it? I don't use
the technique often but I've never had a finding move on me when I
did! And some guy that never taught or took a jewelry class taught
me that trick, lol!

No I didn’t know that. Very useful to know though, thanks. I may get
some. I need to get some hide glue too to keep those damned little
silver balls in place when doing granulation!, although from what
you say, the super glue gel might do the same job.

As a rule I don’t solder by using pallions anymore. I tend to pick
solder. However, there are occasions when you can’t pick solder,
like when holding a piece in your cross-lock tweezers, both to hold
it against what it is to be soldered to and to act as a heat sink.
When doing that you haven’t got a third hand to hold the solder pick.
For such occasions, I was placing pallions of solder and having them
fall or jump off, but now I find it works better to almost sweat
solder. I’ve taken to using the pick soldering technique to add small
“blobs” of solder onto the small piece (such as a bale I’ve made) and
I heat just long enough for the solder to adhere to the piece but not
so long that it flows fully, but stays as a lump. I then place it in
the tweezers, reflux it and I can hold the piece complete with its
solder lumps against the larger piece whilst holding the torch in the
other hand. When soldering a bezel onto a back plate, then I use
pallions of solder. I may sometimes have to change to pick soldering
if the solder seam hasn’t flowed all the way around the bezel, just
to finish the job.

Yep, there's a bunch of tricks that they probably don't teach you
in a jewelry design class. Classes are good but they aren't totally
necessary!

Thank you Kenton. I’m glad such an idea has a few supporters on
Orchid.

It’s nice to “meet” you here in cyberspace.

Helen
UK

73 
Once you think you have learned it, you stop learning. Again,
Helen, who is the above quote, doesn't seem to have any of these
problems.

Thanks John. I agree. So many people in this world think they’ve
learned everything they need to know once they leave school. Life is
one big school from the day we’re born until the day we die and I am
enjoying being one of life’s pupils.

Helen
UK

74 
I apologise to my "first customer for using you as an example but
I'm trying to point out to Richard that some of us self taught
people can actually make things that are salable. I'm trying not to
be paranoid and feel downtrodden and not take things so personally.
But I am finding with this thread that people are giving the
impression or even saying in a slightly less direct way "you can't
learn metalsmithing on your own - it just won't work. You can't be
a jeweller if you teach yourself - you MUST have classes to be in
our club".

After I posted, I specifically wrote an e-mail to Helen of-line, and
she posted to me off-line. I admire what she is doing and how she is
approaching what she is doing.

I started out self taught. I completely stand by my post. I do not
push the send button unless I feel that what I wrote would be what I
would say in person. Interesting that someone else and I said
“reinvent the wheel” in our posts.

And I will pose one question, If someone self taught did not take a
class or a workshop, how can they be objective. You know what you
are capable of without instruction, but not a clue of what you would
be capable of with instruction. The true test is if those that are
self taught can be judged against those that were taught, if design
and workmanship were critiqued, there might be something discernable.

I understand that finances, time, or health can limit ones ability
to take classes or workshops. Then again, I never had much money, but
I was able to prioritize my needs and attend the classes or workshops
I wanted to attend. Of the people I mentioned I had taken classes or
workshops with, someone self taught show me work that is comparable.
The work by these goldsmiths" are not castings with with a gem set
in them. They all mostly do fabricated work. Look at Harold O’Conner,
Marne Ryan, and Michael Zobel (who I did not take a class with).

The biggest myth I hear (or see) is that those that are self taught
go in directions or produce something that would be hampered or not
achievable if they were bound or constricted by the dictates of a
teacher or instructor. Poop. Some cultures teach so those taught can
teach so those taught can teach.

There is not just tradition, but there is pride and commitment to
ones
craft and a sense of community that is sadly lacking in our I can do
it my way illusion of personal freedom. Apprenticeships were to
educate someone and there were skill levels to achieve competency
before they were let loose on the public. The first job I ever
applied
for as a “jewelry?goldsmith?” I had only done silver work.

It was is Beverly Hills, Calif. They handed me a piece of gold and
told me what they wanted, and pointed my toward a rolling mill. I had
never used one. I had not a frickin’ clue. But I was self taught!
That
got me out the door quickly, counting for exactly nothing.

Once again I will try to state, if someone wants to play and meander
around and you have a lot of desire and tenacity, I believe over time
you can get to the point where it can be sold and eventually you can
support yourself

Sit down and figure out how many pieces of what you would have to
sell at what price deducting overhead and materials, and since making
jewelry is not marketing jewelry, make a plan for that. Fiqure out
how many hours you would have to spend at what hourly rate to have an
idea of what your goal is. Making a few pieces and selling them is a
good start, but a business plan brings reality into the picture. You
can figure out whether you want to serve a specific market, or you
can
make what you want to make and create a market for that.

My opinion is that over the last 10 years, competition has grown
considerably. If I tried to do today what I did 16 years ago, I do
not know if I would be successful.

One of the things I noticed at the A.C.C. show is that is a specific
market, one that I do not understand, as I have a retail store, and
that show is a gallery market. That market operates quite
differently.
If I had gone to Rhode Island School of design, or a college, and if
I
went through the program, I would understand that after graduation, I
would either be a teacher, or I would develop a line and I would know
how my teachers applied to juried gallery showings and you build a
name and a following for your work, and over time you gain a
following of collectors for your work.

My opinion is that not many self taught end up in this arena. This is
where I am trying to go. There are no cad cams there.

With the metals market the way it is, is it possible that workmanship
and design might be more important as jewelry might become much more
of an investment? Customers might need to love it rather than just
like it.

Richard Hart

75 
fact that it is actually possible to be self taught and have some
sort of business or niche in one's own way. This is why I said in
the beginning that I think the class taught jewellers are more
than a little biased - they can't see another way.

I for one am enjoying hearing everybody’s ideas on this thread…
My one and only “class” in jewelry making was a semester in college
long ago, and it was probably the least useful experience I’ve had. I
struck up a friendship with an old timer soon after, and that alone
was more useful. I don’t think the point of being “self taught” is
really an issue. I wanted to take up engraving, so I bought a couple
of gravers and started pushing. I set my first stone from reading a
book. Many things. The real value of other people isn’t so much
learning stuff as what can be done with that stuff - you say tomato,
I say tomaaato. I’m what’s called “factory trained”, and that means I
learned from the people sitting next to me. And being challenged by
work that you wouldn’t atttempt if you had a choice is invaluable.

76

Hi Dave,

In the US workshops are pretty widely available. What about in the
UK?

I agree with everything you said. In answer to your question,
unfortunately in the UK, workshops are not as widely available as
they are in the US. I am green with envy of the network of Orchid
jewellers and friends you have in the US and wish we had the same.
Especially in places like San Fransisco, there seems to be so many
opportunities that someone living or staying there would be spoilt
for choice. I’ve searched the internet so many times and there is
nothing near me. There aren’t even any rock clubs to cater for my
interest in geology/gemology and lapidary.

Helen
UK

77

I really am feeling more than a little bullied on this one folks!

Why the reluctance to show this same commitment (financial
commitment) to the arts? Is jewelry frivolous? Is it socially
unacceptable to have to learn from someone else? Is it secondary
to the more "serious" occupations?

Kim, with all due respect, it is not a “reluctance to show the same
commitment”! I explained yesterday the reasons for me teaching
myself. Had I done it earlier in my life I would have been in a
better position to take classes or do my degree in jewellery instead
of chemistry, but my family circumstances were different and my ex
husband wasn’t so accommodating of my interests as my second husband
is. My health and financial circumstances meant that we had to make
a choice. Classes and not be able to afford to make anything, or
tools and materials such that I can work when my health allows.

I take great exception to the notion that you think I’m reluctant to
show the same commitment to this. Please read my post from yesterday

  • it explains it clearly and I’m getting more than a little tired of
    having to explain it over and over again. I’ve had emails of support
    offlist from quite a few people who feel that I’m being bullied on
    this.

I WOULD TAKE CLASSES IF I COULD - BUT I CAN’T. I NEVER EVER said
that I could learn everything on my own - why the blazes do you kind
folks think I post on this forum?! That’s right, for the help and
support it offers. And if you read my post from yesterday, you’ll see
that I have had some design education at college - I was looking over
my coursework just the other day.

Please, please, please stop this tirade of telling me I must have
classes. It seems to me that PERHAPS some who have taken classes
feel threatened by me battling along on my own, implying I don’t need
classes (whereas really I am saying I can’t afford and am not well
enough to take classes). I have spelled out more than once that I
would be the first to sign up for classes were I in a position to do
so.

Hanuman, please let this through then maybe the tirade will end.
Thanks.

Helen
UK

78

Hi John,

Thank you SO much for your support. I am beginning to get upset by
all the people implying or actually telling me that I MUST have
classes to be a good jeweller. Please understand that whilst I am
what you might call a hobbyist who sells the odd piece to cover the
cost of materials, at the moment - my ultimate aim is to carry on
with my steep learning curve and actually become good at it at some
point in the not too distant future and of course continually carry
on learning. I’m sorry if this deeply offends those on the list who
either felt the need to take classes, or could afford to or who
teach but this is the ONLY route I have available to me at the
moment.

Sorry for dropping you in it John, but John has seen my work and
apart from the very valuable constructive criticism he gave and which
I asked for, he said that my work was much better than he thought it
would be or rather than I had made it out to be. That’s because I am
never happy and always want it to be better - now that isn’t a
reluctance to show commitment as Kim thought it was. Now either John
was lying or he meant it - and I know for a fact that he is a decent
guy and wouldn’t lie. He’s a straight up and down, honest and decent
fellow. Since I’ve spoken with John offlist, he’s taken me more
seriously than he might have done beforehand and has actually been
very supportive of my endeavours, so THANK YOU John. The same goes
for others who have seen my work.

This is NOT about self-validation it is about “just give me a break
folks please”. There’s room for us all as John said.

Helen
UK

79

Hi Helen

I take great exception to the notion that you think I'm reluctant
to show the same commitment to this. Please read my post from
yesterday - it explains it clearly and I'm getting more than a
little tired of having to explain it over and over again. I've had
emails of support offlist from quite a few people who feel that I'm
being bullied on this.

Actually, when responded to the thread, I was meaning to imply that
I feel society as a whole doesn’t seem to take artistic pursuits
seriously…not that you don’t take your pursuit seriously. I
actually identify with many of the feelings you have towards your
work. I am wishing (probably through a rosy-colored vision) that it
might be easier (and more respected) for someone to pursue their
creative endeavors. The one post made by John was the only one I have
read in this thread…so I haven’t really followed it at all.

As a former Accountant (and before that former Russian translator),
I have had good positions. When I became pregnant with my first son,
I was ambitious. I was climbing the corporate ladder and very fired
up about the whole thing. At that time in my life, when I talked
about my job, I felt and saw more respect from people. An accounting
position is “normal”, it’s admirable.

Helen, I used to worry a lot (ALOT) about what people thought. One
day, I came across a sitcom on tv where the character was buying a
bead store (and it was supposed to be really funny because oh no, her
brother was going to have to bail her out again financially) and I
thought “I’m a cliche? Fodder for sitcoms?..oh no.” Now I just
don’t care. I don’t care and I don’t give it a second thought and I
actually think it’s kinda funny.

Most days, I am probably one of the happiest people you have met. Do
what you want, that’s the thing you are going to remember later on,
that you did what you wanted. Hey, I turned 40 last week…can you
tell? I guess when you turn 40, you get this Devil may care thing
going.

Kim Starbard
http://www.kimstarbarddesigns.com

80

Hi Richard,

In your post you say that the true test of those that are self
taught is if they can be judged against those that are
teacher/class-taught. A better measure is if they are judged as every
other jeweler is judged…if customers buy their jewelry, then they
are a success. Each sale is another success…as it is for
school-taught jewelers who want to work on their own.

And while there may be more competition now than 10 years ago, there
are also many more ways to learn. Time and talent belong to no one
man/woman. :slight_smile:

Kim
http://of-the-earth.org