- after the image has been heat pressed onto the metal, I used a
wooden toothpick to remove the residue film from the surface, does
anyone have any other suggestions?
Use a piece of scotch tape to lift off any blue residue.
- after etching has taken place, what do I use to remove the toner
from the surface of the metal?
Easiest way is to use a foam sanding bar like what they use for
finishing nails, found in beauty suppliers, or a local drugstore, or
other place that sells beauty supplies. I’ve even found them in
Welcome to Orchid, the most powerful tool in your studio.
I have done a great deal of photo etching over the years. It does
not sound to me that you are using a light sensitive resist. It seems
that you are useing a method that was explained by either Carol Webb
or a Rio Grande process that silkscreens the resist onto the metal.
can you give me any insight on this?
you should be able to remove the toner with fingernail polish
remover…fingernail polish is also a great resist.
I would also like to know what you are etching, is it gold, silver
did you know that you can prepare your own codalith on a copy
machine and send it to a company to have it etched onto your metal?
the same companys that make electronic circuit boards can etch for
you, but not on gold or silver, you need another place for that and I
do not know Aualstralia too well.
Simply get your atrwort together on a black and whit piece of paper
ant copy it onto a clear piese of asetate…clear plastic. when you
lay the plastic master sheet over the metal you want the ink side
down…this means that you may need to reverse your artwork. you can
also do a back side and line it up with registers if you wish to have
a sheet that you can pop the pieces out of.
good luck. remember this is a very interesting process that old time
printers used with magnesium.
wayne werner, maryland instatute of art…wlwstudio.com
It sounds as if you do work with photoresist. Which resist do you
use? Once upon a time many moons ago I used Kodak but can't find
it (or similar) any more. Any tips?
Yes Michaela I did use the Kodack light sensetive resist…after all
that is the real way to do photo etching. all of the other shortcut
methods did not do the job as well. I guess it is what you want out
of your final product. an embossed piece of metal is done fine with a
photo copier. (I call this the Carol Webb method because she did a
wonderful paper on it years ago). the silk screened resist method I
do not care for.
the Kodack resist that I have is 15 years old, I got it donated to
the metals department at Towson University many years ago.
these days I send a kodalith to Indiana micro etch for copper and
brass masters. there is a place in warwick RI that does gold etching.
do a search on chemical milling.