I have a question about a diamond setting and was wondering if you
could help. I am trying to determine how the stone was set in the
attached picture.
I was imagining that the ring was cast, then cut apart as if being
cut for sizing. Once cut, the bottom of the ring was squeezed until
the mouth of the setting opened up. When the diamond was set, the
ring was expanded back to its original position, effectively
clamping the diamond. Then the cut was repaired. But I am not a
jeweler so I need some advice!
The photo you had was not very clear but it appears to be set the
same way as channel set stones are.
You do not cut the ring to do this type of setting. You use a bur or
multiple types of burs that match the shape of the stone being set.
A seat is cut into the wall of the mounting and the stone is tipped
into the seat. Once the stone is in place the metal is pushed down to
hold the stone or stones. This can be done with a burnisher, a bezel
pusher and hammer or my favorite the GraverMax.
Once the metal is pushed down to hold the stone securely, you can
use a graver to clean up the edge of the channel and then clean up
the tool marks in the standard manner and polish.
Not to be a wise guy but since you’re not a jeweler what difference
does it make how it was set, as long as it is tight, straight and
can’t come out? It is set like any channel set stone would be set
although there might be a little extra metal available when the ring
was carved/cast for the setter to work with, then any extra would be
filed off after the stone is secured. Search channel setting in
Orchids archives to see how channel setting is accomplished.
I have a question about a diamond setting and was wondering if you
could help. I am trying to determine how the stone was set in the
attached picture.
It’s a standard, routine, channel setting. The mounting is made with
some extra thickness of metal at the top. You cut a seat, which like
much channel setting allows you to tip the stone into one side and
slide it down into the seat on the other. Then the top surfaces are
hammered down to close the metal above the seats down onto the stone,
holding it. In this case, because of the extra metal allowed on top,
after the setting is secure, one can file the top profiles to that
ridged shape without needing to have the hammered surface remain
visible. The front edge of the metal over the stone is likewise
trimmed to the desired shape after the setting is secure. You do not
need to do anything weird like cutting and bending the ring.
I’m certainly not sure how they did it… but if I was going to do
that I’d cast the stone in place. The way the stone looks in the
image, it would have been the easiest way in my opinion.
John, I find it inspiring that this tiny object can provoke you to
wonder. The way you described may be how it was done. There are
easier ways. Perhaps you should experience making some jewelry! Be
careful though you could end up whiling away hours of your life.
OK. Maybe some others don’t see a potential problem with this
setting, I’m ondering, since you’re not a jeweler perhaps you are
considering this ring as a purchase?
IMHO, this ring is a time bomb. Yes its a channel, sort of. Could
also call it a modified bar set. It also seems to mimic a tension
setting in appearance. Look below the stone, you’ll see there is not
a whole lotta gold below it, Whatever bridge there may be will have
been weaken when recessed for the pavilion… That ring will tend to
fold under the stone when stressed enough. POP goes the diamond.
Also look at the one o’clock position. See a small dark half oval
’thing’? That looks like the stone was retightened with a graver. Why
did someone have to resort to that?
Having repaired quite a number of similar rings I can say the only
real cure is extreme.
