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Hardwood dapping block and punches


#1

Hello

I just made a silver necklace, and since I didn’t have a dapping
block, I made my own out of hardwood, using part of an antique hinge
as the punch. The result was pretty good, but it took two days to
make 9 semi-sheres ! So I’m thing of buying a set, but am tight on
money. Would a WOOD set be all right ? Thanks a lot


#2

I know a lot of folks don’t care for Harbor freight but for those
starting out or on a budget, This might be a serviceable choice. Item
#93539-ovg a 25 piece doming block and punches, 34.99$. Open the box
and check the block and punches to make sure they are all there in
the correct sizes and the block is good. Bring a rag to clean off the
cosmoline.

Jim Doherty


#3

Congratulations on your creativity and problem solving skills, they
will take you far. IMHO, the Harbor Freight Dapping Block and punch
set is a good set if you have budget concerns. It does all that I
require of it to this point and until I have extra funds to step up
in quality, it should suffice for most situations. As per usual I
have no vested interest in the company.


#4
I just made a silver necklace, and since I didn't have a dapping
block, I made my own out of hardwood, using part of an antique
hinge as the punch. Would a WOOD set be all right ? 

Wood works fine, and you might like it better because it doesn’t
leave any dents or stretch the metal. You can make them from hardwood
dowels that come in a variety of sizes.

On the striking end, file a groove to bind with binding wire about
1/2 inch from the end. Lay binding wire in the groove and twist
tight. This prevents the end from splitting. File a chamfer at a 45
degree angle to help center your strike and also to prevent the wood
from splitting. File or carve the other end to the form you want.
Fire harden it after shaping it. Use a brass hammer or weighted
rawhide mallet to strike.

You can also make punches easily with Jett-Sett. Put a blob on the
striking end of an old hammer that has good balance. While the blob
is still warm on the hammer end, place it in the dapping depression.
Let the Jett-Sett firm up before using it as a punch.


#5

I used a wooden one for a long time, still do if I am using a metal
hammer.

Susan
www.ThorntonStudioJewelry.com


#6
On the striking end, file a groove to bind with binding wire about
1/2 inch from the end. Lay binding wire in the groove and twist
tight. This prevents the end from splitting. 

If I can suggest a slight improvement to the above. One can find in
plumber’s supplies a coppers cups used by plumbers to cup the pipe
ends. They available in different sized and when forced on ends of
wood punches, would keep them whole for years.

Leonid Surpin
www.studioarete.com


#7
I know a lot of folks don't care for Harbor freight but for those
starting out or on a budget This might be a serviceable choice.
Item #93539-ovg a 25 piece doming block and punches, 34.99$. Open
the box and check the block and punches to make sure they are all
there in the correct sizes and the block is good. Bring a rag to
clean off the cosmoline.

In my area (mid-Atlantic), that doming block and punch set is at
Harbor Freight for US $28.99. This is, I think, a sale price until
8/19.

#93539 is described on the carton as having 18 holes. The block is
metal, not wood. My instructor at Gem Cutters Guild pointed out that
the metal might not be as sturdy as a pricier version’s, but I think
for now, it’ll do for me, as a beginner.

Harbor Freight also had wire brushes on sale at 3 for US $0.49, and
other items like Helping Hands for US $4.99, extra-large hemostats,
etc.

They also had an articulating (ball joint) hobby vise for US $15.99.
It has just a suction-cup bottom, though – that’s a drawback I hope
I can modify by drilling through the base for permanent mounting.

Lorraine


#8

Hi Jim,

I have a set of these that I started out with from HF, and I haven’t
had any problems with them. I bought a swankier set recently, but I
still find myself using these from time-to-time. The only other thing
is the faces of the punches – I had to smooth out a couple of small
milling rings on one of the punches when I got them.

Jennie


#9

Cecile

Harbor Freight has a steel block and dapping punch set for $35.00. I
bought it at one of their stores a few weeks ago. Excellent value.
They also have a website. Search it under jewelry.

Regards
Milt


#10

Lorraine,

When I started out, I bought a lot of stuff from HF. I also found a
dremel like tool with a flex shaft attatchment at Big Lots. It was
$20. My instructor said “well, if you buy it, you’ll have a $20.
tool - you should buy someting good.” I eventually did buy a Fordom,
but when going to a workshop I bring along my $20. cheapie and it
works like a charm and is easier to transport and set up.

JoT


#11
If I can suggest a slight improvement to the above. One can find
in plumber's supplies a coppers cups used by plumbers to cup the
pipe ends. They available in different sized and when forced on
ends of wood punches, would keep them whole for years. 

Leonid, what a great idea! And so much easier than doing all the
other stuff…(slap my forehead–duh!).