I will attach a file / drawing (pdf) for the soldering.
can the moderator put this into one of your Ganoksin references
Make a cone in thin card exactly as you want it, draw the cone on
your silver and add a bit to the length on the silver, you can always
cut something down to size, it is difficult to add metal if it is not
big / long enough. Also the cone tends to go slightly squint as you
try to bend it to shape, this is not a problem if you have some spare
metal to cut off.
Cut out the flat cone and prepare / file the two long edges
Now decide which side is to be the inside of the cone and slightly
chamfer the edges so that when they come together the flat edges will
Hopefully you will have a tapered mandril or a suitable piece of
steel to put in a vice to pallet your cone over / against.
Place one of the straight edges against the mandril and with a
mallet carefully form the sheet to a curve, tighter at the narrow end
and less curved at the large end. Now repeat the process on the other
You should have a flattish piece with the two straight edges curved
Now carefully mallet or bend the shape round the mandril till the
two edges almost meet.
Make sure that the straight edges do not get bent or deformed. They
must eventually come together perfectly.
If you have a 'tree stump' or wood block, by working alternately
between the mandril and the woodblock gradually persuade the silver
edges too come together, using a mallet. It may be necessary to force
one edge just under the other then open the form a bit till the two
straight / flat edges come together, Try to maintain the form of the
cone as near round as you can and the edges straight. This will take
time. The narrower the cone point the more difficult it will be.
Keep edges straight
Keep form as round as possible.
When you have the cone formed and the edges tight together, I like
to use #8 binding wire from which I double and twist a long length.
I make a loop to fit tightly round the small end then as if I was
casting on in knitting I loop the wire round the cone every 10 to 15
mm and ten turn the end tightly back into the cone to tension the
Flux well inside and out especially on the joint.
Warm the flux to dry and place the cone joint side down on your
soldering surface. Place numerous pallions of hard solder up the
length of the joint.
You need a lot of heat delivered in the correct area. It may best to
heat the piece as best as you can making sure the solder is in
position then put the cone upwards, on its end and heat the joint
from the outside till the solder runs. I prefer to use oxy propane
with the work on its side on a pumice or granular medium. This means
that I do not heat the binding wire directly as I am heating the work
piece from the inside.
Dont skimp in the solder, try to get it soldered in one go.
Remove any excess solder before hammering or further work.
David Cruickshank (Australia)