Hello Jo and Brent,
Jo, Thank you so much for your detailed instructions, I really appreciate it! Ok, I will pour, forge, anneal, roll.
I will need to add tipping the mold to my process and really practice trying to achieve a steady and quick pouring motion…my closed mold has such a tiny openings!
(I used the Rosebud tip on the smith little torch, and tried to get a good flame without too much oxygen…)
(each melt was about 3-4 ounces…too much perhaps?)
Brent and Jo, I did get blisters! Which I only noticed after annealing for the 2nd time…I was wearing my green lens enameling glasses and got the ingot a bit too red…it was after this annealing that I noticed the 1/2" to 3/4" low wide blisters as well as some areas that looked like the surface had begun to melt…sort of tiny melty bumps clustered on surface…
…I was not sure if the blisters were already in the ingot from the (bad) pour, and brought to the surface by the overheating, or caused by the overheating of the ingot…?
I also got some defects that looked like directional (going the long way) stress tears in one or two areas…kind of like what the top of a cake looks like when it cracks during baking…
I shall keep on practicing the forging and rolling, but I fear that my ingots may not have been poured optimally, and may cause defects in the material…I will just have to work around it, and perhaps remelt the remainder with new metal/ casting grain and try again.
Regarding forging hammers, I found this link on an older post, where it shows a large hammer being used to forge bar and rod ingots.
Based on this I am considering ordering from Rio Grande, the Fretz Sledge hammer for forging…and as the article shows, using the slightly rounded side for the sheet ingots and the cross peen for the rod ingots…the Fretz sledge hammer head weighs 20 oz…is this a nice recommended hammer for forging 3 ounce bar and rod ingots?
I have a similar weight/ face hammer I inherited from my dad, that I polished up…I think I will try that one next.
Thanks so much for the advise!