not sure if this is going to get to you as it is my first post but i
have 30 years experience in making custom jewellery and have set
hundreds of square stones. every one has a different take on it but
based on your experience i have put some thought into what might
work best for you.
do not solder anything to your ring shank. with the texture you have
created you will have a very hard time cleaning any discolouration
from your ring after heating and soldering. your best bet is to
stick with the flush mount. here are 2 easy ways to do it.
mark you spot with a center punch. drill a hole that is half the
width of your stone. take a setting burr that is exactly the same
size as the width of your stone and cut a round seat the depth you
think you need. you can now use the shape of the round seat a guide
for the square seat. now mark out your square shape taking care not
to make it bigger than your stone. use a.5 mm (not sure about the
imperial measure) ball bur as fast as your pendant drill with turn it
(full throttle) with a very very light touch slowly carve out the
corners of your square to the same depth of the seat the setting burr
made. I use a air driver drill for this as it turns at 450000 rpm i
think you will get 20000 at best from your drill so i stress light
touch so you dont drag over the top of the ring and try to travel in
a clockwise direction pulling the drill towards you. dont worry at
this point about making the ends of your square slightly rounded this
will give the corners extra room to fit. the most important thing is
to make sure you sides fit as closely as humanly possible.
you can now concentrate on the inside hole. use a three square
needle file to open up the round hole and make it square take care
not to widen the overall length and width. if you leave even 1/10 of
a mm of a seat it will stop your stone from falling through. work at
it slowly this will be a learning experience for you so take your
time and rest assured a diamond can take a bit more abuse than a cz
when the stone fits you can use a burnisher to burnish down the
sides of the hole over the stone. Dont worry if you can see the
corners of the diamond under magnification if you managed to get the
stone to stay in place and the whole to look square you deserve a pat
on the back. if the whole looks out of square you now use a very
sharp graver 45 degree or 90 degree to gently carve some of the
material away from the center to the corner. if your graver is sharp
you will need very little forward force. dont try to take out to much
in one pass for your first attempt.
mark rectangle areas that have a slightly smaller width and longer
length than your stone. drill out 2 holes side by side within the
lines. file out the shape then use a barring bur to cut a channel in
the border lengths about as deep as you would cut a seat. ideally
the same depth as the distance between the girdle and the table of
the stone. this is called a channel setting. you cut one a bit deeper
than the other then rock the stone down into the channel of one side
then with gentle pressure force the other side down until you here a
click. your stone should move back and forth along the length of the
hole without falling out. you now burnish the lengths down into the
stone taking cart to do it slowly and keep the stone in the center.
you will end up with being able to see negative space beside the
stone but you can call it a design feature.
sharpening gravers is a very practiced skill in itself. do some
research. setting square stones is a very advanced skill. i
encourage you to give it a go but you need to have patience with
rather than practicing on cz in the future use white sapphires. in
small sizes they are very affordable and allot tougher than cz. it
will help your confidence. cz are cheep but very brittle so are very
aggravating for a beginner.
hope this helps and if you need clarification just ask.