"In crimped settings, the stones are held by claws (taillees) one
draws the graver up or down,to release the stone visually. The edges,
are drawn up/ upwards and fragments are pulled with the graver, down
towards the base".
At least thats what i gather from the french which is archaic to
what we speak in New Orleans.
I think they are saying literally that:
in a prong setting the (tailees) are thinned with the graver by
drawing it down, thus removing metal, from top to base. then the
quote is referring to exposing more of the stone by removing metal,
as you would cut or trim bezel strip that comes up too high on the
edges of the stone with a sharp graver..
Crimped is probably the literal translation of the contextual meaning
of the word.and in that case.it sounds like bezel setting and
trimming it down if necessary..but again that 's the literal.and
doesn't really match the definition snippet given.
I don't think that''s what they instruction is saying, but, If i had
I think it is referring to a star or modified star setting-
basically one takes a sheet for instance, and soldersa piece of metal
to either side of the stone to create a base with raised sides,of
sorts.Then scribing the stone's shape on to the base to pierce out
later if desired. With a very sharp, highly polished round graver,
draw it down towards the stone to raise a thin strip of metal ( a
finger or tail) to act as a prong (le taillees. Continue around the
stone on the sheet above the base until you have raised enough
fingers/thin strips to hold the stone in securely therefore, visually
exposing as much of the stone as is possible, or: Star Setting it..
there you have my guess..R.E.Rourke