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Dental vs Jewelry Resin for 3D Printing

What the differences are between 3D printer castable resins used for casting jewelry and dental applications. Specifically, does the dental resin need a high temperature during it’s burnout?

I only see that the dental resin has less shrinkage compared to the resins used specifically for jewelry. I understand there are many many options of castable resins out there, with all sorts of differences, but what are the main differences between castable dental resin and castable jewelry resin?

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Hello Patrick.

3d printed models are great and I have had a great deal of success with the models - BUT NOT WITH CASTABLE RESIN.

My advice - to save you a lot of time, frustration and money, money, money- is to have your models printed in a high temp resin and make molds directly from the models.

Additionally, sprue your models in CAD! Maybe you cant do all the sprueing needed for casting but you can create enough of a gate for wax injection into the mold.


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Hey Heather, thanks for the advice. Are there any resins you recommend?

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I have been working with makelab in brooklyn. They have Formlab 3d printers and use
Formlab resin as far as i know.

The orices are reasonable and the quality is mostly good. These arent photocopiers so you cant expect perfection. You can clean up the models with 1200 grit sandpaper before molding. But be gentle as They are brittle.

Good luck

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The 2 castable resins that formlabs sells actually perform quite well in both normal and stone-in-place casting. My favorite is the purple ‘castable wax’. The blue ‘castable wax 40’ is really waxy, and deforms easily (it’s 40% after all), so I don’t use it all that often, but it still casts well.
Formlabs has burnout schedules listed on their site for each of their castable resins.

I do second the recommendation to add sprues to the model, however depending on the complexity of the piece you’re printing, it could make removing all the support material an extra pain in the rear.

As far as spruing, gently scuffing your attachment points aids in adhesion, but the best thing to do is plan out your spruing so that you limit how much handling you have to do. Sometimes the sprues attach nice and strong, and other times they pop off with just a bump. It really just takes a bit of trial and error to discover what you can get away with. It also, annoyingly, changes with each resin.

As far as non-Formlabs resins you can use with your Elegoo, I recommend pretty much any castable resin from PowerResins. The dark has incredible accuracy (to the point where you can actually see each pixel from the lcd screen in the model), but doesn’t cast quite as well as the others. Our workhorse is currently their ‘Wax’ resin. Not quite as good at sharp detail, but prints nicely, is pretty easy to work with as far as spruing, and casts wonderfully.

I would be interested in understanding your investment and casting protocol. I consistently get porosity in my casting with castable resin models, and large areas where the investment has obviously not held up to expansion during burnout. I use Plasticast resin at 39 ratio and am casting in silver and brass. I use the formlabs proscribed burnout schedule precisely. My pieces have flat surfaces. any suggestions for better results?