Dear RR Jackson,
The biggest thing to remember when working with glass hot or cold is
to r espect and understand the glass but not fear it. I’m sure there
are places that you can get the glass cut and polished and that
would probably be the safest route, for example a glass blowing
studio at a college or in town, or a stained glass shop. but if you
want to do it yourself, it shouldn’t be that difficult depending on
how big of a piece you would like and what your definition of
"pieces" would be, If you want a half of a bottle, it’s best to send
it to the hot shop and have them use their Diamond saw and then they
can finish off the piece by polishing it there.
But it’s not too difficult to do it yourself, and if you decide this
is the way to go then this is what you would need: GLASS CUTTER:
(there are two types, one with a comfort handle, highly recommended
$20-$30, or one with a solid handle you need to dip your “blade” into
oil. cheep route- $4-$10 ) CUTTING OIL, (usually put into the glass
cutter’s handle)$4 RUNNING PLIERS, usually $10-$20 MINI BREAKER
/GROZER PLIERS, $10-$20 (these are not completely necessary but they
help with bit’s of glass that don’t come off after you score and
break/split they also help really complex cuts)
The best way to learn is just to do it. I would suggest that you
practice cutting (scoring and breaking/splitting) on flat glass
first, it’s easy, depending on the type of glass you have and the
cuts you want to make… Start with making straight lines, then move
onto wavy lines. There are certain cuts that are not easily done and
some that are impossible. Once you get the handle of how the glass
breaks and what all is implied but cutting glass I would then play
with the bottle.
So you cut class by scoring the glass with the cutters. Stabilize
your bottle or smash the bottle beforehand and use the size pieces
you would like tocut down. Using the oil to lubricate the “blade” of
your glass cutter either through the handle or gently dipping the
"blade" into a small amount of oil, put pressure on the blade by
pressing down on the glass and by using some force make a nice clean
line, make sure you start at one end of the glass and continuously
go to the other end of the glass,run the blade right of f the end of
the glass without letting up on the pressure. ( if you are working
with a whole bottle, I would rotate the bottle under your blade, and
make sure that your score line meets up with where you started it
from, and then genlty tap the bottle or the score mark to break/split
the glass) You will hear the glass almost scratching underneath the
blade, (careful because that sound can become addicting. too much
pressure and the glass will break before your done scoring. Not
enough pressure and the glass will not break when you go to
split/break it. Then either by putting a thumb of each hand on each
side of the score squeeze tight, putting equal pressure on both
sides, pull hands away from each other. Or use the running
pliers(which I recommend as the safest route) there will be a line
in the rubber or metal ends of the pliers, put that line on your
score mark and squeeze. if the score is done right the glass will
break. watch out for the edges of the glass they will be sharp,
which brings me to my next question, how do you want the edges of
your glass to be? remember that the edges of the glass will effect
how the light goes through the glass. Do you want the finish of the
glass to be clear? If so that will require some glass “polishing”,
which is a whole different ball field. however if you are going to
cover up the edges so they wouldn’t matter you can do one of two
things. invest in a glass grinder, they run about $70- $120 which
you can get from any stained glass shop, or even on-line. where you
hold the glass and move the edges around awet, rotating diamond bit
and that will chip away the “shards” of glass left from your cut and
make the glass finger friendly, It will look like you took polished
sheet of sterling silver and pushed it alond a cement drive way.
Using the glass grinder is the safest option. Or if you don’t wish
to invest in a grinder get a diamond bit for your flex-shaft from
any hardware store, keep it wet and run that evenly around the edges
of your piece of glass. this should also make it finger friendly.
remember to do this in an area that is “safe” to have glass shards
around, because they will go flying and you won’t be able to find
all of them. Not to say that you would do this in your living, just
a precaution.
I hope I haven’t overwhelmed you, it really is quite simple, I just
wanted you to have as much as possible. I grew up making
stained glass with my mother, then moved into hot glass, using hot
head (torch), my freshman year at College I moved to the Hot shop (
blowing glass by use of a pipe and furnace) and got a second
specialization of my BFA in glass… My first passion and
specialization is Metals. If you have any questions pleasecontact me
or your local stained glass shop.
Hope it helps!
Amanda
There’s always more than one way to shave the cat.