Centrifuge vs. Vacuum & Melting Furnace
Hey Alma!
I have been teaching myself to cast for the last six months. I
inherited the equipment and it took me a while to figure out where
the gaskets/silicone pads went between the casting chamber adapters
and flasks. One pad for the vac table and one for the casting side.
No instructions, so no idea how it works. Had never seen anyone cast
before and had no idea how to light a torch.
I’ve learned from a lot of mistakes. Books, Utubes and help from
here on the forum and archives.
The most important thing I have found is the seal. Without a good
seal, the vacuum casting will fail. Be sure both sides of the
silicone pad are clean, soft/pliable and in good condition. I use a
little silicone tire dressing on both sides. A full size paper towel
folded in half or quarters with a hole in the center to fit over the
hole in the pad, and dipped in your bucket so it is wet, will create
a great seal, save wear and tear on the pad. Not dripping wet, but
saturated. If the flask is small it may not be heavy enough to seal
itself so don’t be afraid to push it down with the tongs and a gloved
hand.
Next, don’t pour until the vacuum is pulled down all the way. An
extra 20 seconds won’t hurt and will make a huge difference. If the
vac does not pull, don’t pour as there is a problem. You can put the
flask back in the oven and figure out what is wrong now, rather than
what went wrong later. I have found it never to be the pump, but the
seal.
Another thing I discovered by mistake is that there are two sprue
bases. One for centrifugal and one for vacuum casting. The
centrifugal base is rounded like an ice cream scoop. I suppose so
when the flask is set spinning the molten metal hits the bowl and
works its way down the hole. When I poured into this shape, I had
splash up and would have little balls of metal burning marks on the
table or base. The previous owner had marks like this too so it must
have been a common problem. Then I found vacuum sprue bases, they are
like the bottom of a funnel, steep tapered walls that gobble up the
molten as fast as you can pour. With no splash up.
You also questioned the furnace. I have to stand on a stool to do my
pours. The vac setup is on a tool box base, by the time I put a flask
on top it is about chest high and no way I can see down into the
flask, So I stand on a stool for the pour only. I have wondered about
the crucible falling out. I started using the tongs to hold the end
from falling out. Then I played with it when it was turned off and
pretended I was pouring and wanted to see how far I could turn it
before it would fall out. A long way! The first pour I did I waited
for it to hit the pour temp and poured immediately. Well, there was
probably a hundred degrees difference between the bottom of the
crucible and the top. The pour pretty much stopped at the end of the
crucible. So let it sit for a few minutes, maybe ten so the entire
crucible is red. That way the metal is not going to cool during the
pour. If you leverage yourself correctly when you pour, 12/13 pounds
will not seem like anything. It’s only about a 15 second arm wrestle!
If you are having any vacuum problems, be sure to check hoses. I
replaced all mine and added mini hose clamps to each connection. Auto
supply store will have them and it made a huge difference. I have the
drop down casting unit for perforated flasks and the furnace is about
six inches away, I put a silicone pad on the end of the table to
protect it from the heat. I also put one inside the unit on the
outside of the casting chamber to protect the hoses. A 4x6 flask at
1,100 degrees holds a lot of heat and gives it off to everything
inside.
To the experienced on here, this will already be second nature, to
someone entirely new to the field, every little hint helps.
Charlie