Dede, this is the same problem as soldering bezels on rings–how
do you fit the bezel to a curved surface? Once you solve this
problem, you can apply the solution to a whole host of other
types of situations.
I bend my bracelet (or ring) to then desired shape. Then I fit
bezel wire around my chosen stone and solder the circle closed.
Next I use a cratex wheel on a polishing motor. Very carefully
and SLOWLY, I begin to grind down the bottom of the bezel circle
that will fit on the rounded surface. I “grind a little, and
look a lot.” That is, I frequently put the bezel on the surface
to check the fit. Wherever the bottom of the bezel touches the
bracelet–but there are still places that don’t touch–I grind
down the “high” spots that do touch.
Grinding the bezel tends to deform it, so I frequently reshape
the bezel circle around the stone. So the process is: gently
grind bezel highspots, reshape bezel around stone, check bezel
against the surface of the bracelet, look carefully, – over and
Periodically, you need to gently file away the burs fron the
You’ll need a little thicker bezel wire to withstand the motor.
You could do all this shaping with a hand file, but the cratex
wheel is much faster.