Just to add to the bezel discussion.
I’ve made about 100 rings now, This is how it played out for me. I began mostly with 24 ga ( .5 mm ) thick bezels soldered to a flat backing plate, occasionally I used 22 ga when i felt it added to the design. The backing also functioned by providing the seat.
After awhile bezels were filed to fit the ring shank and soldered directly on, again with 24 ga and I used the shank itself as the backing, making sure to to keep the stone level as I set it. With the comparatively small number of rings I made, I never had a problem with a stone shifting or coming loose, but admittedly, my way of doing things needed improvement.
About 2 to 3 years ago, Richard Hopkins emailed me information on a better way. He showed that a press fit seat could be made out of 20 ga round wire and soldered in place. Since then using 24 ga, with both cabs and faceted stones, this is where I am at the moment, 24 gage on the outside, with a 20 gage seat.
In reading this thread, i am starting to wonder if it would serve me well to use 1 mm and learn to cut a seat with a burr ?
This is my personal progress so far, thinking that it might be helpful to some also new at doing this, thought I would share it.
Comments are much appreciated.