Here is my definition of learning setting while at the bench…Once
you learn most of the basics of diamond setting. Think again, you’re
still at the main floor and you now have 30 stories to climb.
Climbing to the top of the ladder, so to speak.
I just finished being setting for long hours these last few months
and many setting projects passed my bench-peg. Some of them I haven’t
seen before… I just closed my eyes for a few seconds and pictured
how it should be done… I called upon my few setting years of
experience “all 47 of them”…sought out the burs and tools to use
and then methodically attacked each process…slow at first…then
figured out a newer method to put into my hard-drive crevasses of my
Voila’ the second ring to pass my bench came to me lots easier, now
the third ring was a dream and also lots faster with NO ERRORS in
judgement. This discertation applies to anything you folks are
Explore every ‘avenue’ to create a new technique, it might seem
unattractive to your manager, but it will make your life easier in
the long run. If you, like me have to modify any tool at your
disposal, then do so! Some of my most interesting setting tools ARE
HAND MADE. They are totally modified for a specific setting project
and they are kept separate.
Let me share one idea with you all, where ever you folks may be,
call it my Christmas present to anyone reading this diamond setting
essay. If you have a Channel Setting with Princess diamonds and you
want to make darn sure that the Channel Wall bearing cuts be at one
level. Here is my simple technique.
First of all if you use a round bur to make the channel wall a
slightly wider, try using a round bur and grind the top of the
opening. Now lay the stone on top of the opening, if it is over
lapping a tad, great. Lets proceed further, so to speak.
Remember most of my burs are interchangeable with other setting
ideas. Obtain your 156C bur or as its called an "undercutting bur"
grind off the pointed section, leaving ONLY the very widest part of
this bur. WHY? Glad you asked,
THIS IS YOUR NEW CUTTING BUR, this new bur will only cut a groove
for the girdle of the stone to rest against the wall. Now run it
the rest of the spaces allocated for the Princess stones. If you use
a #006 round, or bud bur of the same sizes, again you might run to
problems. You might not have the luxury of making a straight line in
the Channel Wall!!!
This method is only a guide line to the rest of your setting
process, from this point on you may attack the Princess setting the
usual way. By the way, a Princess Diamond in a Gypsy Setting is one
of the easiest setting methods to do…:>)…