Just wondering, having looked at a lot of Art jewellery and yes some
of it is well made and sometimes it can be worn. Sometimes the Artist
statements don’t sound like a Cool Aid acid test. Google that young
But so much of it is not even of apprentice level construction. I am
not talking about people learning. But gallery exhibitors etc.
I wonder if the average Art jeweller was given specific parameters
to work with could they do it? Say set a 7 mm round faceted stone in
a bezel setting ring size say P. In 18 kt. Say 4 mm by 2 mm half
round shank. Bezel wall.7 mm thick. Tube setting.
Now this is a very basic design and second (maybe first) year
Would the solder joins be minimal? No wider than a hair. In 18 kt
should be invisible.
Would the stone be squared and level? Does the stone sit well on the
bezel seat? Seat needs to be cut.
Would the tubes fit perfectly, no gaps?
Would the inner bezel tube be brightly polished?
Would the join of the shank to the bezel be crisp and clean?
Would the ring be round?
Would the base of the bezel match the curve of the shank?
Would the bezel be right down on the stone? .7 mm needs to be hammer
Would the inner edge of the bezel be bright cut or burnished?
Depends on final design required.
Would the top edge of the bezel be even?
Would it be polished so when louped there would be no marks at all
on the ring? This is 18 kt.
Would the fineness mark be clearly stamped?
Would the inside edge of the shank be filed to make the ring slide
on easily and no sharp edge?
Would the bottom of the bezel be smooth? Finally is it size P?
Probably there could be more questions asked about quality.
If you can’t do this very simple ring and you exhibit in galleries
then best to stay with “It’s supposed to look like that.” AKA can’t
actually make classic or quality jewellery. Mastering these basic
skills is hard work and takes time. But if you can do this then like
the original abstract artists who mastered the classic skills, you
can extend design parameters and make quality. I made 500 of these
rings before they were trade quality. Six months of very hard work.
Sold all the rings I made as the public were not well educated here
in Australia 25 years ago. I needed the money and they were rock
bottom prices. They were well polished and better than the cheap
Too many rush through training and practise and so never get to
trade quality. In my old age it takes me an hour and a half to two
hours to make one of these in sterling. In 18 kt I take 3 hours. Why
longer in 18 kt? Stone is serious dollars so everything is done
wonder what others think?
all the best