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Anti-Flux/Solder Inhibitor

Looking for something to use as solder inhibitor which will NOT reliquify when exposed to either water or alcohol (e.g., not rouge or ochre or chinese white or whiting, etc.). Preferably something I can make myself as those of us outside the US do not have easy access to commercial products normally used by US goldsmiths. Does anyone know what Stullers settings antiflux pen uses? Please do not post here about the health hazards of white out, as there already are hundreds of threads on this subject in the Archives :wink:. Does the water-based white-out reliquify after drying when coming in contact with wet flux? I assume the flammable one doesn’t (is that true?) but it does not seem to be carried anywhere here in Israel nowadays… I need it for a teeny tiny area and fear the flux will necessarily reach it via capillarity. (For most jobs I have always found the materials listed in my opening sentence to be adequate.)

Janet in Jerusalem

Hi Janet,

not an answer to your question…but, on a related note…i was soldering multiple, closely arranged joins, and i found success using two things that came in an inexpensive paint brush set, as application tools…

…one was a very, very, very, tiny metal, bud bur-like tipped, scribe-like tool…not being a brush, is seemed to pick up less liquid in both the orchre and the flux, and not flare out with pressure, but picked up just enough to precisely and neatly apply both…i did the ochre first, and let it dry fully…then, did not allow the flux to touch it after…

…and there was also a very, very, very tiny fine tipped paint brush that worked very well also, with a steady hand and much patience…i kind of found it meditating…(a comfortable seated position and stong optivisors were helpful too!)

i will take a picture soon…

here are a few photos…

the scribe measures 1mm at the base (widest part) of the bud shaped tip and comed to a softened ball point

i have placed a .50mm and .70mm twist drill beside it, for scale…which made me think that if i rounded the rip of the twist drill and mounted in s pin vise, that might work as well…but the twist may pull water up…

and i also placed my teeny tipoed brush in the pic for scale as well…

i make teeny tips for my giles wax pen with twist drills…

Julie

That’s an interesting idea–decreasing the capillarity to get less water in the flux. Reminds me of when I first started filigree (over 40 years ago). Yemenite jewelers used a feather (from pigeons) as a flux ‘brush’. It probably had the same effect of reducing liquid in the join area. They were the smallish feathers you occasionally find in the street. They would remove the bottom longer ‘hairs’ so you just had the feather’s tip. I wonder if they used that because it was handy and free or if they felt it worked better than a brush. I think I’ll try going back to that…:-)… Meanwhile, I’ll give your suggestion a try. My dad was a dentist prior to becoming a mathematician, so I have tons of burs and bur-like tools of every possible shape :slight_smile: !

Janet in Jerusalem

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