Back to Ganoksin | FAQ | Contact

Working with 14k yellow gold (bezels)


#1

You’ll probably get plenty on this one - since I’m just having my
coffee—If your 14ky is tough and springy, you are using the
inappropriate alloy, or it is un-annealed. Annealing is a book in
itself, but your typical alloys anneal at a dull-to-full (but not
bright) red heat, which is 1150-1250f or so-it’s just not critical
for normal bench work. Quench anytime after it loses it’s redness.
It’s best to let any metal soak for awhile (silver less so)- hold it
at temp. for awhile, without overheating. Other Orchidians will no
doubt differ with this, and it’s true- your exact alloys, and your
exact apps. are going to vary. If your cab does not fit PERFECTLY in
your bezel, you never will get it tight. A bezel does not hold a
stone in, it holds it down. If you push the whole bezel down, as you
are, and finally rub down the very top lip into the stone (just the
edge), it should tighten up. Lastly, if you are setting a $75,000
emerald, and it just goes “tap,tap”, and you could pound on it again,
but it’s 60% risky, it’s common practice to use “tightening agent”,
and
wipe it down…