Which torch/ tip/ fuel system do you use for melting and pouring ingots


which torch/ tips/ fuel system(s) would be best for melting and pouring ingots…?


p.s, this looks like a simple, brilliant setup for supporting the crucible while pouring an ingot…!

…just yesterday i was just thinking about ways to improve my pouring, and contemplating ways that i have seen to support/ steady the crucible…i was recalling a fabricated metal pouring stand i saw for sand casting…i love a good jig…!

the small diameter rod 2 part combination molds challenge me the most…the opening is so small!…

and wondering if 2 part rod molds were available with a larger funnel spout…like the 2 part square sand casting frames…which i may want to consider after reading Rob’s paper on casting and rolling ingots ver2.0

then, this popped up on instagram!

so simple!

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The answer is not posted regarding what torch or fuel system. This looks like a smith torch with acetylene. I have used this set up for years. But I am curious to what the best torch and set up is and will not not break my bank.

Looks like an old presto-lite torch tip. A few weeks ago I was looking at a you tube video of a guy casting silver in an open mold. He added a fair amount of oil to the mold before pouring. He then proceeded to pour a very nice ingot. I have tried wiping more oil than I usually wipe and it seems to improve the pouring process for me too. I m not really sure why, but then that is the case for a lot of things that I do. Most of the time I use my delft clay or petrobond process because I need an ingot that is a particular shape and it works well for that purpose. I will likely pour more open mold ingots in the future. I haven’t tried more oil on a closed steel rod mold, but will sometime. If anyone has an idea what the oil is doing, let me know. Thanks…Rob

Producing a reducing atmosphere? I know that this is part of what gave us our glaze effects when working in raku pottery.

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Makes sense. Thanks…Rob

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We use natural gas and oxygen in our studio.
When I melt platinum I use a sharp very hot flame.
In casting or annealing silver I use a large rosebud tip on my casting torch. It produces a large bushy flame that I dial in to be. a reducing flame. Less oxygen, less oxidation.
When melting gold, I make sure that I’m not getting in too hot and too fast to the point of burning out the alloys. If you see sparks coming off of your metal you’ve gotten it too hot.


Thank you!


I was researching this question in the forum- again(!) and found an old post I had done! haha!

…“What torch should I get for melting over 2 ounces of sterling silver, etc…”

I currently have an oxy propane Smith Little Torch, with both Smith and Paige tips.

I spoke to support at Paige tools, to get some knowledge and advice.

He suggested that the Meco Midget torch is more similar to the Little Torch (which I already have).
Paige sells tips for the Meco.

He suggested that I look on the Paigetools.com website, under the “Bike Frame Builders” tab, and look at the torches shown there. He said that any of these type of torches would be better suited to melt more than 2 ounces of sterling silver, etc. which the Smith Little Torch is not really designed to do…

(Paige does not sell these torch bodies, or necks, only the 2 tip adaptors (NK and UN) that will accomodate the Paige tips)

Smith Versa Torch Aw1A
Harris 15-3
Victor J-28
Uniweld 71
Gentec 140T

in case anyone is interested, I have decided to get the Smith AW1A torch body, and AT61 neck, (from Cyberweld.com)

and the Paige NK adaptor to accomodate my Paige tips (from paigetools.com - call them)

and the lightweight hoses, and Western brass Y connectors from (TMTechnologies.com)…which will allow me to connect to my existing oxy propane setup, and run 2 torches…

(I already have the Miller arrestor/ check valves for Propane and oxygen on the setup at the regulators)

Ultra Light Weight Welding Hose

Valved Acetylene “Y” B-sized (can be used with propane)

Valved Oxygen “Y” B-sized

hopefully this setup will provide the solution I am looking for…


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I hope you keep us updated!


oops! the TM Twchnologies website is tinmantech.com

p.s. - i got the Y-connectors from TMTechnologies because support said they come with B fittings and A fitting adaptors…



my friend has a 1kg (35 oz) Rio Melting Furnace that is still “new in box”. I bought an extra crucible for the day when i asked to borrow it!…

well, that day has come! I am gonna try it out while I wait for my Smith AW1A torch setup to arrive (also known as the Smith Versa Torch).

one question i have is…lets say i want to pour five 4oz ingot…do i just put 4oz of metal in at a time?…or do i put the whole 20oz in at one time…?

any thoughts on this?…

one of my hesitations with the idea of using a melting furnace is whether or not i will find the crucible easy to control/ pour into a mold AND STOP when it is full…considering that i find pouring from a dish or whip crucible into a combination mold a bit nerve-wracking…the openings are so small…but i do prefer the flatter surface results on a closed mold…

i will share my experience…


I find that oxyacetylene works well… getting a hot flame and reducing/oxidizing flames can be easily controlled. a quick hot melt reduces oxidation. I have used a melting dish to pour which is tricky.
The ingot mold that I have is an adjustable width, clamp together steel mold with holes for rods. The biggest trouble that I’ve had with pours is to get the steel mold hot enough…coating the inside with a light coat of vaseline and getting it smoking hot still seems not to be hot enough for a clean pour… should I have waited for the smoke to stop, leaving a carbonized surface inside the mold?

Others might disagree, but if it were me, I’d melt 4 oz and pour each ingot individually.

I think both melting and pouring ingots with a torch and crucible or pouring with a melting furnace takes practice. (Yes, it is always nerve wracking! Kind of like professional actors still getting stage fright after many years on stage.)

For me, if I haven’t poured an ingot in a while, I practice with everything turned off and cold. I pretend to pour at least 5 ingots (maybe more if necessary.) My goal is to create muscle memory, so my body, brain and all of the parts have a better chance of coordinating together in that one moment of pouring for real.

That’s helped me a lot.

The other thing that gives me confidence is that I built a simple contraption to catch spilled molten metal if I do mess up, so there’s basically no chance of molten metal spillage.

I cast ingots on a 6"x6" solderite block with a tight “bezel” or frame of 1" tall 22 ga or 20 ga sheet steel that I welded together.

Good luck! And definitely let us know how it went!!



omg, i miss-spoke again!

i said the Y-connectors can with A and B fittings
but i meant the ultra light hoses!


can’t agree more… pouring is hard enough. excess molten metal risks a spill and makes it even harder… Had bad pours due to the mold not being hot enough… the silver had to be remelted and repoured… getting the perfect pour is not easy !!!