I’ve previously posted some questions on making brooches and working with metal. I have spent the last year creating my initial line of art products but haven’t gotten into working with metal yet. I haven’t invested yet in files even though I did some research based on things I read here.
Anyway, this time hoped that you all could help me out with choosing a small file that I could use for filing down the grooves that I have unfortunately created on this part here in the picture for one of my laser cutting machine’s lens holder.
It recently didn’t want to fit in the slot and I did the mistake of forcing it to fit in the slot and then it was frozen in there. I finally got it out with prying using a tiny screwdriver (and keeping the lens covered). This made marks on it and now it definitely won’t slide in the groove. I covered up the lens and tried using a Dremel bit but that didn’t really work.
I thought before spending another $150 on a new lens I would ask you all about a file I could use.
are you wanting to remove the recessed groove on the top surface of the rail?
(why? it seems like it would not inhibit that rail fitting in the slot…?)
or, are you wanting to remove teeny protruding burs sticking out on the side surface?
Hi Julie!
Thank you for taking the time to think about this and ask these questions. Here are my answers:
I’ve called the company and their engineers said the frame/casing is made of aluminum
2 & 3: Ah, I guess I’m wanting to remove the protruding burs and gouges that are on the side surface as you can see on this second picture where I show the top that using the Dremel bit I guess I basically took off the corner of the back section.
I’ve used my digital calipers and in the pics are the measurements I think you’re asking
I was just curious as to more details regarding your situation…but, …I admit I am not knowledgeable about lasers, and “do not know what I do not know” in terms of the lens positioning/ tolerances etc…so I “could” suggest a small file, but I worry that you might create more issues for yourself…by plodding ahead…forcefully…
Since you are able to reach out to with the manufacturer, perhaps ask them what they recommend as a solution to your “fit” problem…
my first question would be: “why did it not fit/ lodge/ torque to begin with?”
is this an issue they are aware of?
it would seem that the piece is machined to specifications and tight tolerances for fitting into that slot…it seems like it “should” slide in place smoothly/ maintaining fit tolerances…
I would venture to say that a “recess” or “gouge” should not inhibit or get “caught” when sliding it into position…
I would think a “protrusion” or bur might inhibit sliding into place…
before you remove more metal, or re-shape that rail, perhaps need to find out what the root cause of what was causing the “hangup” so that it/ they can be addressed?..
Thanks for this well thought out reply. I had already called them at the end of last week and they had never heard of the lens piece jamming like that. The other lenses I have didn’t have that problem. So I’m not sure. That’s why I resorted to just using a tiny screwdriver to get the lens out of the slot.
They definitely have tight tolerances to fitting into the slot. So I thought what do I have to lose to find out from you all on purchasing a file and trying it.
If it doesn’t work, then I would need to go ahead and buy the $150 lens again. I assumed I could use whatever file I would buy with my future metal projects. I plan to use aluminum anyway to cut out shapes like leaf shapes for the kind of brooches and hat bling I want to make (when I learn to use the jeweler’s saw).
You might consider an escapement file…artcotools.com has a nice assortment of shapes and “cuts”
I suggest a finer cut, such as cut #4
As far as future use goes, I can only say that I use escapement files more than (slightly larger) needle files or (much larger) hand files. My current choice for medium large files are hablis files…I find I use them in place of hand files quite a bit…
here is a link to an escapement file- barrette, parallel (barrettes are “usually” tapered…this one is not)
the edges of this file are tapered down and thus there is no side, with teeth, like an equalling file.
(the edge teeth are sometimes polished down for a safety edge (so you don’t cut “into” corners…if that makes sense…often the top spine is also polished down as a safety edge, so that it doesnt gouge above…if that makes sense…
here is a link to a escapement pillar file
the sides of this file have no teeth, and it is thicker, more rigid than the above escapement file.
this might be a better option for you to maintain a flat surface when filing, as the file will not flex like the above barrette file…
i guess you need to determine if the rail was getting caught on the top of the rail (too thick) or the sides of the rail (too wide) before you being removong metal…?
An escapement barrette file will do the job. Since you are working with well machined parts of aluminum, the finest cut would probably work well enough and the finished surface will be smoother that way. The barrette file is very useful if you end up doing some jewelry work, particularly for working with prong settings. HOWEVER, let me suggest something else that might work better. Just get a small piece of fine to very fine sandpaper or emery paper. Cut a small piece, maybe a couple of inches square. Put the emery paper on a flat surface like a table edge. You will then be able to slide your edge back and forth across the paper with clearance at the table edge for the part that flares out. Just use a back and forth motion on the last few millimeters where the gouges are on the side, holding the lens housing with the rail more or less parallel to the sandpaper surface. I say more or less because you only want to sand that last part of the edge toward the back where the problem is, so lift up the front edge just a little. This way, you will hit the whole flat surface of the rail edge, but only the last few mm, and leave the rest of it (which fits) untouched so that it will fit the outside (female) rail unchanged. I would start with the finest sandpaper I could get, around a 1000 grit and if that proves too tedious, use the next grade up. Aluminum will fill up the grit of the paper pretty quickly, but you don’t have much sanding to do…and you can move to a different place on the paper if it stops working. What has happened (I think) is that in prying you have gouged the rail’s surface and pulled up some shards of metal over the surface dimension, so that it no longer fits. Filing or sanding this small part of the rail shouldn’t prevent it from fitting about as tightly as it did before. Sorry to run on so, but I hope this gives you a procedure to use that will work. I suggest the sandpaper (or emery paper) on a flat surface because if you used a file you would have to work the angle by feel and sight and some folks are not particularly good at that with small parts at first. It’s easier to hold the lens housing at right angles because it is larger and easier to see and the flat surface of the rail is a reference visually and by feel. -royjohn
Oh wow! Thank you also Royjohn for this very detailed information and procedures! I think I should try the sand paper first as you suggested. These are what I have Micro-Mesh sanding pads.
I wasn’t thinking of anything as nice as these sanding pads…researching these, they are used for sanding and polishing glass right up to a fine polish with shine. So if you do use these, just use the coarsest one, the 1500. I was thinking more of a fine sand paper, like a 400 to 1000 grit. It’s cheap and you won’t gunk up your nice polishing pads. The 1500 grit will work, but might take a while. Just start with the 1500 or a 100 grit, do a few strokes and gauge your progress. You could probably knock off the bumps with 400 in a few strokes and then finish up with 1000 and get a pretty smooth finish that wouldn’t scratch the rails it fits in. -royjohn
