Which foredom?

Hello!

I have been eyeing Foredoms for awhile now, and think it’s time for
the investment. I however am very confused as to which motor and
hand pieces are right for me. I would be doing mostly grinding and
polishing. I am currently using hand tools to file pieces and using
mostly nail buffers and steel wool to remove oxidation before
tumbling.

Also, what kind of buffers do you recommend? Do you use any
polishing compound with these?

Thank you SO much in advance!

Carin Jones, owner/designer
Jonesing for Jewelry

I was looking at one of these, instead of a pendant motor.

http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/1t2

The hand piece feels substancial, and it has more than enough power.
Reasonably priced too.

A couple of years ago I wouldn’t have even looked at it, but tools
like this get better, and become more affordable.

I use a bench grinder to polish… noisy, but it more than does the
job. I use a selection of rouges and Tripoli.

Regards Charles A.

I’m being very tempted by Foredom on sale now. I’m currently using a
Dremel flexshaft, and want to upgrade, but the question is which
handpiece, the #30 quick change which only accepts 3/32" shafts or
the #30 which I can use both 1/8" and 3/32. " The quick change is
appealing since I’m always having to stop and change out a bit, which
can be a bit time consuming using my Dremel. But I’m worried it also
might be limiting to just use the 3/32" shafts. I’d love to get some
feedback from more experienced users on this issue.

Peggy

Peggy,

the #30 quick change which only accepts 3/32" shafts or the #30
which I can use both 1/8" and 3/32. " The quick change is appealing
since I'm always having to stop and change out a bit, which can be
a bit time consuming using my Dremel. But I'm worried it also might
be limiting to just use the 3/32" shafts. 

There must be a typo there, as the #30 handpiece is always a jacobs
chuck style, which can hold anything from a #80 drill (If it’s a good
chuck. Some don’t go quite that small, especially the handpieces that
copy the Fordom, but are not that brand), all the way up to a bit
over 1/8 inch. While it is indeed slower to change bits and
attachments with a jacobs chuck style, like the #30, this should be
your first handpiece. With the quick change type, you are limited to
only 3/32 shanks, which means, for example, that the only drill bits
you can use, other than an actual 3/32 drill, are the carbon steel
types, like Busch or others, that put whatever size drill on a 3/32
shank. These, while handy, are not as long lasting as high speed
drills, and cost more. And there are times when you’ll want to hold a
1/8 inch shank as well. So while slower, the #30 chucks are more
versatile. A plus is also that they last a LOT longer. I’ve had any
number of types of quick change chucks, and they simply don’t last
forever. The collets, or the parts the collets fit into, or the parts
that open the chuck, all suffer wear and tear, and need to be
periodically replaced. Sometimes that can get costly. The #30 chucks
are pretty much indestructable. I say pretty much because, well, I’ve
seen them worn out or damaged, but it takes some real doing to do so,
or it takes a long time. I’ve got one #30 chuck that I’ve had for
over 25 years, and it still works just fine.

So start with the #30 chuck, genuine Fordom brand preferred. They
cost less than the quick change, and do more, just more slowly. Then,
if over time you find you’d like more speed in changing between
attachments, then get a second handpiece, a decent quick change. If
you do any stone setting, that quick change might even be your third
handpiece, with the second one being a good hammer handpiece like the
Badeco. You can do setting work without one, and in fact some setting
tasks are more safely and better done the manual way, but usually,
the hammer handpieces are wonderful time savers, and can do some
things easily that are a PITA to do with a punch and chasing hammer.
That handpiece does things a quick change or #30 cannot, so if you’re
upgrading handpieces in order of utility, I’d guess that one might be
second, if you do stone setting. The quick change duplicates what you
do already with the #30, just speeds it up.

One thing, by the way, that helps speed up the use of the #30 is how
you open and close it. The standard little chuck key has a habit of
getting lost. Put it on the end of a cord or chain so it’s always
exactly where it should be. You can also get chuck keys on a plastic
handle. Easier and faster to use, and easier to find in a bench pan
too.

Hope that helps
Peter Rowe

if you have large hands the #30 is great, I personally prefer a
thinner handpiece, and always the quick change version of whatever
you choose . the duplex spring is useless if you use the handpieces
correctly ( in my opinion). The traditional #30 fits the Foredom
Allset system and a number of other products and other maker’s
products but don’t let that limit your choosing a #15, 18, or #20
thinner handpiece( all the thinner models accept 1/8" and 3/32"
mandrels anyway). there are a number of handpieces on ebayUK that
are quite compatible with all foredom and faro, pfingst and buffalo
dental flexshafts ( to name a few) at a fraction of the cost of the
foredoms ( although you get the foredom warranty and unparalleled
support of the Foredom Co. Sales Dept. when buying a genuine
foredom- however you may be able to speak with the sales manager and
work out a mutually agreeable substitution of the handpiece you want
with the motor you want if it is not normally included in the package
deal you are looking at. i highly recommend the TX model if you do
stone setting for its torque to speed ratio, but their higher HP
models are also worth considering if you do a wide range of
operations…Do check out FDJ Tools on time and Rosenthal Jewelers
supply as they are often overlooked vendors with very large product
ranges that bypass most other vendors catalogues based on the
gesswein/grobet product lines. Again, the handpieces on ebayUk are a
great buy with reasonable postageif you want to try out say three
different handpieces for the cost of a single foredom branded item…I
hate ebay- no matter which country it is relative to, in general, but
the handpiece bargains are the exception to my rule against buying
from that site! Hope something in this post helps… rer

Great advice about the chuck key. I’m sloppy and disorganized (I
prefer "freewheeling and sear of the pants, or some such… ) in
most things I do, EXCEPT chuck keys. My Fordom chuck key isn’t even
on a chain, it’s simply unthinkable that I would set it anywhere but
in its designated place.

peggy -

this is a stopgap suggestion until you decide which foredom to buy
(i like the flexible handpiece that is adjustable) and is a
tremendous time-saver - dremel makes a collet that is adjustable for
all shanks, just like a regular electric drill - i’ve forgotten the
item number but you can easily find it - i bought half of a dozen
when they were on sale since i still use a dremel at shows, etc. the
no-change-out collet is invaluable.

good luck -
ive
think more noe, regret less later.