What is your opinion on the best Jewelers Saw

Attached (if this works) is a close-up picture of the upper blade clamp on a German saw frame. This is one of the reasons I dislike this saw frame so much.

Note the red arrow pointing to the blade clamp. The top of the clamp has such a gap between it and the frame that it can rotate almost in a circle. This forces me to align the miserable little thing in order to hold the blade end in place while I turn the wing nut. Had they made this part a little larger, with much less of a gap, I wouldnā€™t have to fiddle with it to keep it in alignment. It would just do its job with no attention required by me. The large ā€˜toleranceā€™ they decided to use gives new meaning to the word slop.

I know it is a little thing, but it is totally, absolutely unnecessary. The part should have been made to the right size so it could do its job without my having to do the job it for it. Inverting the clamp helps a bit, but not enough. Comparing just this one detail to the Knew Concepts saw frame, you can see the difference between quality and junk.

Neil A

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Flip it clear around it might fit closer.

Flip it clear around it might fit closer.

I did that and it is true. A tiny bit closer isnā€™t good enough though.
The part should have been made to the right size, and it wasnā€™t. That
says a lot about the maker, to my mind. Perhaps that explains why it
may say ā€œMade in Germanyā€ on it, but does not say by whom. Knew
Concepts puts its name on /its/ framesā€¦

On reflection, I think the best comparison between the German-made frame
and the Knew Concepts frame is that they are of different eras. The
German frame looks like it could have been made in 1800. Perhaps it does
date back that far. It hasnā€™t changed beyond what could have been done
back then. The Knew Concepts frame is orders of magnitude more
refined. Parts are machined rather than stamped out. Fit is precise
and tight. It is simply on an entirely different level. Add in the
lever re-tensioning and the blade rotation (if you get that model) and
the German frame is really old news.

I goofed by not buying the Knew Concepts rotating blade model, almost
never needing anything more than a 3" throat. But last night I started
piercing a design in a 2" x 6" silver bookmark and had to use the 5"
German frame. It does work, of course. But for part of the design I
need to go down to a 10/0 blade and there is no way I could get the
tensioning just right with the hit & miss tensioning ā€˜systemā€™ that frame
requires. The Knew Concepts screw tensioning is so sweet for such fine
blades.

Neil A

Hi Neil,

Your blade clamp is on upside downā€¦:-)ā€¦ Note the arc at the bottom of the part it is clamped toā€“also arched. Mine is on the other way aroundā€“so the arches match up. There is no clearance at the top, so mine fits perfectly and always stays in place.

To put in blade, I press the top ā€˜knobā€™ into a depression on the side of my workbench with my left hand until the top of the blade hits the top crossbar, and then tighten with my right handā€“no use of sternumā€¦:-)ā€¦ Perfect tension every time, since the blade-length screw on the saw is set for my blades, which all seem to be pretty much the same length (mostly Laser Golds). That distance can always be reset easily for special cases.

I believe that most (all?) sawing problems are a function of incorrect use of the tool (the above is a good example) or incorrect sawing practicesā€¦

Janet in Jerusalem

PS My saw is about 40 years old, so it might be the case that 'they donā€™t make ā€˜em like they used toā€™ā€¦:-)ā€¦

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My participation will not mean a big deal but still.
About 60 procent of my work is done with a saw blade 2/0 and all the rest
with very fine saw blades 6/0 and 7/0.
I never used this new concept frame and Iā€™m still doing my ā€œstuffā€ without
breaking very fine saw blades.

I believe in taking time for nice saw work.
The knew concept saw might be another aproach for sawing but jou still need
to master the technique.
No good technique and no patience will cost you saw blades, even with a new
concept saw.

After more then 25 years of being a goldsmith I became a pretty good friend
with my saw frames.
They service me well and I stick to them.
I use two frames, one for regular saw work (2/0) and another one for extra
fine saw work (6/0 and 7/0).
I donā€™t need to switch the blades anymore and thatā€™s saving me time.

Just my opinon

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Ted

I would love to see your photo of the articulator jig set up!
Charles (retired dentist)

Hi Janet,

Your blade clamp is on upside downā€¦:slight_smile:

Yes, I know. It came like that, it rotated on its own to the correct
way during a blade change, made not a dimeā€™s worth of difference, and
probably got turned around again after another blade change.

There is almost no clearance at the top, so mine always stays in place.

Good. Thatā€™s the way it should be on every saw sell. It looks like I
got the short end of the stick.

I could have fixed it one way or another. I can think of 3 different
fixes off-hand. But it really annoyed me to be sold such junk so it got
tossed in a junk bin.

Mercifully there are manufacturers who do a better job with quality
control. I bought a Swiss made frame and used that instead. Then the
Knew Conceptsā€™ saw came out, and to date thatā€™s as good as it gets,
until they refine it even more.

Regards,
Neil A

Hi Neil,

Thanks for the vote of confidence. We are working to make them better, never fear.

It took me a while to get permission to post the picture, but a friend of mine collects antique tools. He has a couple of fairly early jewelerā€™s saws in his collection, so Iā€™m posting a quick cellphone shot, since itā€™s what Iā€™ve got.

Quote:
ā€œNot sure which ones were in there at the moment you were here but my guess is the one with the bulbous ivory handle is late 18th century, it shows up in catalogs circa 1770 's, the one with the thin ebony handle is signed Peter Stubs, circa 1810 to 1830. Both have the leaf spring finial to open the top blade clamp. This feature is very rare and not seen past second quarter of the 19 th century.ā€

The interesting thing to note is that the little ā€˜stubā€™ on the traditional designs that we all use now to hook on our bench pins during tensioning, if we even notice it at all, was originally a split spring used to spring the two sides of the forward clamp apart. They were attached to each other, and not capable of getting out of alignment the way the modern version does. The original design didnā€™t (and couldnā€™t) have the problem that Neil hates. The other thing to notice is that the spine bows change section. Theyā€™re forged. Which means theyā€™re real steel, properly heat treated, not just a bent bit of rectangle wire. Vastly stronger than the modern incarnations.

What youā€™ve got, in a modern version of the ā€˜traditionalā€™ design is something thatā€™s been like a game of telephone, getting fainter and fainter with every repetition, for more than 200 years. Every time somebody did their own version, they kept looking for ways to shave a penny out of it here and there, and it eventually got shaved down to the point where it was essentially worthless.
I saw the same thing in the design of coping saws, when I looked at those before designing ours. The very early ones werenā€™t bad. They were as good as they could be, given what they had to work with. Then the manufacturers got into a race to the bottom for price, and they cheapened the design without understanding what made it work. To the point where they now basically donā€™t.

I built a machine not long ago that lets us test the tension that a sawframe will put on a blade. The best (old) coping saw I can find puts 52 pounds of tension on a blade. The Stanley Fat Max (their ā€˜fancyā€™ version) I picked up at Home Despot last year does 32. And ours does 87+. Which matters. A lot.
Of course, weā€™re 10 times the price of that Stanley, but there are individual parts in ours that cost us more to make than that Stanley retails for. If you aim to compete with a $15 dollar retail, thereā€™s a limit to what you can do.

In a certain way, I can understand, and have sympathy for the production decisions that led to some of the compromises in the modern saws. I look at the old hand-made, one-at-a-time designs, and thereā€™s almost no way to do them like that in a production situation. You just canā€™t. So I can see the fight, one little detail at a time, one cheaper part here, one spring turned into a decorative doo-dad there, and I understand it. But at the end of the day, you end up with something thatā€™s nothing like what it was originally.

Itā€™s been an interesting and eye opening few years, working with Lee on the saws. Even coming from a background in production jewelry, doing the kind of volume production weā€™re doing now is a whole different world, and it forces you to think in completely different ways.
For example, weā€™ve been having trouble (now fixed) sourcing titanium for our Ti saws. The mills were producing Ti that was specā€™d at .125" thick. But it was specā€™d to ASTM (56something or other), which calls out for a thickness tolerance of plus/minus .010". And they were producing sheets at .1165". Just barely inside the sloppiest possible tolerance. Which doesnā€™t sound like much until you realize weā€™ve got parts already made that were designed to fit .125" plus/minus .005. (A sheet of paper, more-or-less) These things are twice the tolerance low, and would be noticeably sloppy if we used them. (we didnā€™t.) But youā€™ve got to keep an eye on the ā€˜traditionalā€™ tolerances for each different material you use, and set up your design to deal with sloppy (or tight) stock over many different runs. Either that, or get used to calling out the spec you need, and inspecting the material to make sure. Not something that jewelers normally spend much time worrying about. If I buy gold at 1 mm thick, I can pretty well count on it being 1.00 thick, plus or minus nearly nothing. And there are both economies and costs to scale. Some of our parts for the saws we do in batches of 5000 at a pop, or more. Which does make them cheaper, in terms of setup, but it forces you to think of designs which can be produced in those kinds of numbers without making everybody totally insane. My hatā€™s off to Tim, our assembly guy, who puts hundreds of the saws together every week, without going completely nuts. I couldnā€™t do it. I have done it, and it makes me crazy. (Iā€™m a good production designer and prototype machinist. Hundreds of the same part every week, for months? No. My head would explode.)
Iā€™m not entirely sure where Iā€™m going with this, except that I find the differences in the way you need to think about design for large scale production are radically different than the way jewelers think about production design, if they even think of it that way at all.

Another part of the world heard from, I guess.

Regards,
Brian Meek
Knew Concepts.

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NoĆ«l - the beauty of the KC saws is how you tension the blade. Release the lever or the screw if no lever, insert your new blade and tighten both ends. Then flip the lever to the tension you need - or tighten the screw at the top. Voila - no need to compress the frame against your body. If the KC frames did nothing else, the tensioning is enough to have me love them. I do recommend the lever for tightening, itā€™s easier if you donā€™t grip little stuff as well as some. And the old saws can be updated with levers - at least i did mine and a couple of friends saws.
Judy H.

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Hi Brian,

ā€œThe interesting thing to note is that the little ā€˜stubā€™ on the
traditional designs that we all use now to hook on our bench pins during
tensioning, if we even notice it at all, was originally a split spring
used to spring the two sides of the forward clamp apart. They were
attached to each other, and not capable of getting out of alignment the
way the modern version does. The original design didnā€™t (and couldnā€™t)
have the problem that Neil hates.ā€

Nice to see they were considerate of the tool user back then. Iā€™d like
to explain my reason for the ā€˜hateā€™. Odds are nothing will come of it,
but you never know.

As a human I expect human-made things to work for me. As a person I do
not want to work for the thing. The best way to explain that is with an
example.

Every e-commerce website Iā€™ve used in recent years requires me, during
the payment section, to select my country, then type in my street
address, then city, then state / province, then postal code. This is
laziness on the part of programmers. If a person entered the postal
code first, in most cases the country could be determined, as well as
the city and state / province, and could be filled in for me by the
computer. If I entered 97209 for my postal code the serving computer
would be able to fill in United States, Portland, Oregon for me. If I
entered T0H 2X0 the serving computer should know this was Canada, Peace
River, Alberta (unless the codes have been changed since I lived at that
code) and maybe even fill in the street - I was told the Canadian code
represented a lot of data. British codes are similar except the code
starts with a numeral, then a letter, so you can tell which is whichā€¦
If other countries copied any of the 3 schemes above, then a drop-down
list might allow the user to select the country, in which case city &
etc. would then be auto-filled. Actually the website could determine
location, at least country, by detecting the userā€™s I.P. address. There
is no reason to force people to type these things in, except for lack of
imagination or laziness on the part of the programmer. When I was doing
web & other programming Iā€™d pick similar bones with programmers who
designed things so the human had to do work to accommodate the computer
program. The computer should serve the human, not the other way
around! Tools should serve humans, not the other way around!

Very, very few websites are designed intelligently. Iā€™ll use
www.HamiltonBook.com as an example of one that is. I get their
catalogs. If I type in a code from the address label the website knows
me and my full address, and then I get a quick little way to enter just
book codes. I can buy a dozen books in just a few minutes and move on
to other things in my life. If I buy books from another catalog
provider (Daedalus for example) and type in the mailing label code
nothing is done with that. Actually they ask for the codes twice!
Then I have to key in the item code in a search box, go through
rigamarole to put the book in my ā€˜cartā€™. Focus (input) does not return
to the search box so I have to move the mouse there for my next
selection, etc. etc. It is tedious and boring, a waste of my time.
Hamilton Book designed their website to do all the grunt work for me
that it could do, and also be highly efficient for themselves. In fast,
out fast, next customerā€¦ The other websites waste my time, increase
their own overhead, and risk my quitting before buying.

As to the nameless Made in Germany saw frame. Two stamped impressions
on the edge of the upper frame arm, like stitches, could keep that blade
clamp bar from rotating. No extra step or parts required during
manufacture. Thatā€™s all it would take to make my inserting a blade
easier. Instead of that they used sloppy tolerances and force me to do
work for the tool that the tool darn well could be doing for me. I take
that as disrespect for me and my time on heir part.

This is really my point. With intelligent engineering tools should do
everything possible for the human. Things should just work, easily,
quickly, effortlessly. Efficiency is good for the manufacturer as
well. A little consideration for the customer, a little thought, can go
a long way. I resent those who are too lazy to do a proper job and
stick me with needless effort.

Tools (including computer programs) should do for the human, not make
the human do work for the tool. Spread the expectation.

Neil A

Yeah, Iā€™ve often pondered that exact same thing, while filling out the form to ship stuff via the post office website.
Youā€™d figure they of all people would know exactly what the zip code entails. But no.
About the IP address, they donā€™t sniff that for a very good reason: me. (and people like me) I use a VPN, or an IP spoofer a lot of the time. I like my privacy. So thereā€™s no guarantee that the IP you see has any bearing on where I actually am.
Iā€™ve even been known to set up my browser to reply when asked that itā€™s an Altair 8088 running Mosaic, just to screw with things.

Sometimes, I honestly think itā€™s just a failure of imagination. They ask for the address in a particular sequence because thatā€™s the sequence in which addresses are asked for. If you can jolt people out of their ruts, then they start thinking more creatively, but until you apply dynamite, thereā€™s no reason why they should spend much thought on it. (not just addresses, but any one of a number of other things that we do in rote(ish) ways.)

Regards,
Brian

Hi guys,

My friend with the antique tool collection forwarded on a couple more photos, more serious this time, showing details of the clamps and springs on the 18th century saws, as well as a different saw, a very deep frame this time.

Take a look at how the forward clamps (and springs) work, and notice that the spines get thicker as they get towards the top. Theyā€™re not just bent rectangle wire. Being actual forgings makes them much stronger than the modern version.

His commentary about them is below:
Just remembered, here are some close up pictures I had, see the early leaf spring detail. The bigger saw is signed Joseph Fenn, all late 18 th century. You may not have seen it as it doesnā€™t fit in that case.

Notice also how small the ā€˜littleā€™ one is. Looked like a normal 3" saw in the photo in the case didnā€™t it? Part of the reason that the early jewelerā€™s saws were so ornate, and why they were adjustable to be able to use broken blades is that the technology to make the steel needed for jewelerā€™s saw blades was only becoming available in the last half of the 18th century. And it (and they) were damned expensive. Since the blades were so expensive, there was a reason to make the sawframe ā€˜worthyā€™ of such an expensive blade.

Regards,
Brian Meek
Knew Concepts.

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Thereā€™s a Swiss saw with a black plastic/ resin handle in reo, the handle is shorter than most. I love it you can see it in my bench exchange pic hanging next to the traditional saw. Like find Waldo :slight_smile:

For inexpensive best saw. I like the ā€œSwissā€ version. To me, it is a better design than the German saw frame.

For more expensive, the Knew Concepts are excellent. Try the swiss once first, itā€™s about the same price as a German one, very cheap.

Love my Green Lion sawā€¦ had to order it and wait for it to be made, but itā€™s my all time favoriteā€¦

I like what u r saying
although I am new to smithing and jewelry making
as well as being a tool junkie
I luv the history of things that I get interested in
and I noticed this as well tools made for every concevable task
sure some are designed to make life easier but I think some of these tasks should be tackled old school
I ve been using tools my whole life in the building trade and same thing there
but more the materials but thats another story
I remember cutting pipe w/ a hack saw 1/2" - 6ā€™ long 1/2" -2" diameter
and all had to be squared 90 degree
point is somethings take practice.
but I do luv my tools

Hey, so I asked this on youtube as well in a more limited way. Iā€™m wondering why the set screw would be able to go so far from the center or near center. Why isnā€™t it fixed? Or almost fixed. I understand it may be a little cuz of differing saw blade sizes, but why does it move that much to the point of allowing blades to bend? Iā€™m self taught, and hate my basic saw. Trying to decide what to get. I was thinking the 3ā€ swivel. Cuz I wouldnā€™t have to deal with the less stable 5ā€ one, but if sawing deeper, the swivel of the 3ā€ would give me more flexibility with depth. Or is that not the case? Thanks so much, Mimi

Hi Mimi,
I think it might be difficult to put a ā€œstopā€ on the setscrew. Once you understand the construction it is easy to adjust the screw a bit to accomodate different thicknesses of blades. I have the old tensioning system and understand the new one is great. Really love my Knew Concepts saw.
Cheers,

Karen

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ā€¦i am thinking of getting this sawā€¦have you tried it?

Julie

Looks like a fun thread (that Iā€™ll never read) :laughing:
My short (smartypants, but honest) answer is : I donā€™t know what the best frame is , because I donā€™t care. What I do care about is the best blade for what Iā€™m doing, because thatā€™s what makes ALL the difference. Sawing RT/pancake die in 0-1 (oil hardening flat stock tool steel) , and the blades are any of the ones that are ā€œPlatinumā€ and they are all the same blade. I have one saw that uses the old faithful German frames Iā€™ve been using for 45-plus years, and one saw that uses a special saw that Lee Marshall (founder of Bonny Doon) made me for the prototype saw he also made for me. (see video) Manual and Motorized Saws For Pancake Dies - YouTube
Blades are the weak link in my chain; they wear out , or break. Platinums are the hardest blade, and therefore brittle, but the frames are not a contributing factor to breakage. Iā€™ve never liked screw-tensioned saws, but neither do I think thereā€™s anything wrong with them . This pic is the special frame Lee made. 8" depth, made of 1/2" square Aluminum bar. Blade mounts made from normal frames, but I modded them with hardened plates.

DS

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