What Is Jewelry Design?

That "creativity" is the innovation, the originality. Artistry is
the articulation of the idea, the "design", if you will. And
craftsmanship is the skillful expression, in materials, of the
final product. 

The guy I trained under many, many years ago, who was both an artist
and a craftsman always said to me: An artist is someone who can make
one. A craftsman is someone who can make a pair.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
617-234-4392
@Daniel_R_Spirer

Sam,

I think you have very eloquently put into words what I feel about
design and creativity. Years ago I had a real problem with a
sculpture professor over something along this line. For example, She
would say to the class “take this rock and carve a dog.” I told her
there was no dog in that piece of rock and so it could not be. When I
pick up a piece of stone it talks to me and tells me what is there. I
then chip away the parts that are imprisoning it. I see the folks
that do lapidary doing the same thing when they study a slab to see
what cut and shape will enhance the beauty of the stone. We all have
to find the place where we are comfortable with what is inside of us.
How we express that is creativity. There are many that can make and
sell things but there are too few artists. Thanks for your words and
the source for tufa…

Rick (Who quit that sculpture class.)
Beads, Bones& Stones
earthworks Finc(+)rivendell-farm.com

bloviation 

Wow! What a great new (to me) word :-). Thanks, David!

Beth

An artist is someone who can make one. A craftsman is someone who
can make a pair. 

I love it, Daniel! I’ll be quoting this for sure.

Noel

Hi Nanz,

How does a goldsmith /artisan differentiate between design and
creation? Clearly, many people think that making jewelry and
designing jewelry are the same thing, but are they? What are the
qualities that differentiate the two? 

I am surprised to find that I never realized there was a debate
about what a “jewelry designer” actually is. You received many long,
wonderful replies on creativity and such but I didn’t really see an
answer to your question. Perhaps I am too literal minded. To be
certain of my point, I referred to my dictionary.

Design

  To conceive or fashion in the mind; invent 

  To formulate a plan for; devise 

  To plan out in systematic, usually graphic form 

  To create or contrive for a particular purpose or effect 

  To have as a goal or purpose; intend. 

  To create or execute in an artistic or highly skilled manner. 

  A drawing or sketch. 

  A graphic representation, especially a detailed plan for
  construction or manufacture. Create 

  To cause to exist; bring into being 

  To produce through artistic or imaginitive effort 

So my understanding is that a “jewelry designer” (primarily the ones
that everyone rails against on the lists) are people who design a
particular piece or line of jewelry and then someone else makes it.
To me, anyone limited to the titled of designer is someone who
doesn’t have the skills to make the jewelry themselves, OR has the
skills but chooses to hire out for the creation for any number of
reasons. I think the problem discussed on the list in the past has
been “designers” at shows where the vendor is supposed to have made
their products themselves, (That term “made by the artist” is a whole
other fireball) but everything was created by a factory and they just
designed the pieces.

Just my $.02

Nancy
Geosoul Arts
www.geosoul.com

Nanz,

 A respected teacher posed a question to me: How does a goldsmith
/artisan differentiate between design and creation? Clearly, many
people think that making jewelry and designing jewelry are the same
thing, but are they? What are the qualities that differentiate the
two?

I’ve held off responding to this question because, the answer is
vague. Tonight I began reading some of our esteemed Orchadians
responses but I was still not satisfied. I believe Lee was close in
capturing the difference (or similiarities) but still, I was not
sure.

This question is always the first one with which I confront my
students. But, I call it ‘design and engineering’. Why? Because
design is the conjuring of an idea, concept, etc. But, no matter how
simple the design, it cannot be created without first being
engineered. Once all the problems are resolved, a skilled smith,
sculpturer, etc should be able to create the dimensional object.

Now,…that is not to say a designer is not an artist. In most
cases, they are the true artist. They conjur the idea and render it
in a manner that makes it visible and understandable. But only the
metal or stone (or whatever) artisan can convert it into something
that can be touched, felt, worn, etc.

Recently, I was contacted and asked to create an idea. Over a period
of nearly a year, the ‘designer’ (he was not an formal artist, simply
a person with an idea) plied me with his ideas about what should have
been a rather simple and straight forward item. I never had much
enthusiam about the project but when he said make it, I did. When it
was finished to his specifications, I knew it would not work. It
looked great…exactly what he wanted, but the center of balance was
all off. When he asked me how I could correct it…he didn’t like any
of my ideas until, finally, I told him that was it…it would just not
work the way he wanted it. Now I will modify it my way. You see, the
conjuror does not have all the answers so there IS a difference
between the concept (design) and the reality (a dimensional object
subject to all the physics of nature) and it lies in the
engineering.

I try hard to instill in students the idea that, as a maker, they
CAN also be a designer but not necessarily vise a versa. So, as they
conjur that pet idea, they must also consider the ramifications of
making it…all the steps from A to Z as well as all the esthetics
that are taught as necessary to good design; balance, durability,
blend, etc.

I do not believe there are specific qualities that separate the two
as. each has its own level of quality and fulfillment. For example,
once a designer renders their idea, unless they are also trained or
knowledgeable as a maker, they are finished. The creater is rarely
finished…there are always new and better techniques, improved
tools, expertise to be gained and, never is a piece perfect in the
eye of the maker.

I liken this question to the old Chinese delimna of, “How can a
white horse be white and a horse at the same time?” There is no final
answer,…only shades of difference and that is in the eye of the
beholder after all.

Sorry for rambling but…well, I guess you asked the question
didn’t you?

Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine jewelry! @coralnut2

Nancy at Geosoul Arts - - I like how you resorted to the dictionary
for the definition of “Designer”. It throws some light onto the
subject.

I have been following this thread with interest because I have been
struggling with what to call myself for a long time. I’ve wanted to
ask you all about this, but felt sort of stupid. Now I’m finally
gonna bite the bullet and see what you all say.

I am new to the business and I design and make my own jewelry and am
starting to try to sell it on the internet and through small shops,
word of mouth, etc. I have been calling myself a Designer because
none of the other categories seemed to fit right. Yet, I feel like
calling myself a Designer is a bad move because you all seem very
negative towards them and I don’t really understand why.

Nancy, you said:

So my understanding is that a "jewelry designer" (primarily the
ones that everyone rails against on the lists) are people who
design a particular piece or line of jewelry and then someone else
makes it. To me, anyone limited to the titled of designer is
someone who doesn't have the skills to make the jewelry themselves,
OR has the skills but chooses to hire out for the creation for any
number of reasons. 

To me, based on the dictionary definitions, it looks like a designer
could be one who simply thinks up a design and has someone else make
it for them, AND it can also be someone who thinks up the design and
actually executes it as well.

My confusion as to what to call myself started when I wanted to
register to attend the MJSA Expo New York show. I was thinking of
myself as “Jeweler.” But the available categories to register aRe:
Bench Jeweler; Caster; Chain Mfr.; Designer; Electroplater; Findings
Mfr.; Finished Goods Mfr.; Machine/Equipment Supplier; Metal/Alloy
Supplier; Mold/Model Maker; Packaging/Display Mfr.; Refiner; Retail
Buyer; Stone Supplier; Trade Press; and Wholesaler.

I had to pick one. The ones I thought I might fit into weRe: Bench
Jeweler, Designer, Finished Goods Mfr., Mold/Model Maker, or
Wholesaler. But none of these seem to really fit me right. I’m not
comfortable calling myselfa Bench Jeweler yet because my skills are
limited and I don’t think I could get a job as a Bench Jeweler. I
don’t think I really fit into the category of Manufacturer since I
make things slowly and in low quantity. Maybe Model Maker, but I do
all the other steps that need to be done to make and sell a piece
not just make models. Wholesaler - well, haven’t made a wholesale
sale yet. Will do so if opportunity knocks, but I’m also selling
retail on my website.

So - - what am I? I chose to register as a Designer - - yet, I feel
like I am giving myself a bad name before I even get started because
you all think badly of Designers.

So, should I be calling myself a Bench Jeweler even though I don’t
have the wide range of skills that Professional Bench Jewelers have?

Regardless of title, I’m totally looking forward to the Expo NY and
to the Big Apple Orchid dinner that Joel is so kindly organizing. I
went last year and it was a blast! Looking forward to seeing you all
again!

Nan

Nan Lewis Jewelry
artisan-made fine jewelry… different!
www.nanlewisjewelry.com

Dear Nan,

I am new to the business and I design and make my own jewelry and am
starting to try to sell it on the internet and through small shops,
word of mouth, etc. I have been calling myself a Designer because
none of the other categories seemed to fit right. Yet, I feel like
calling myself a Designer is a bad move because you all seem very
negative towards them and I don’t really understand why.

I think the negative connotation of the title 'Designer" comes from
the perceived over use of the word when the person who is overusing
it is actually an assembler of components from supply houses. Now
this could also describe a bench jeweler but a bench jeweler also has
the technical ability to engineer the components not available from
supply houses. Bench jewelers also can repair which is a very
technical trade. I struggled for a long time as to what to call
myself, I wanted something that captured the imagination of the
person who asked but not over glorified what I do. I now respond by
saying I am a gold and silversmith who designs my own jewelry. The
title designer tends to make me think of one who does not do their
own work which to many Orchidians is not good. This may stem from
when designers conjure up something that is not engineerable or is
down right stupid. This may stem from lack of technical knowledge in
manufacturing or materials. This all gets very confusing if you let
it.

Sam Patania, Tucson
www.patanias.com

So - - what am I? I chose to register as a Designer - - yet, I
feel like I am giving myself a bad name before I even get started
because you all think badly of Designers. 

Don’t think that. I’ve been on this list for I think less then a
week now, I have had poor experiences with people who call themselves
designers and so I can guess what the rants you speak of are shaped
like, but they are a small percentage of people working under that
name. You have to present yourself to the public somehow, Jeweller
is very vague, Goldsmith is missunderstood by a surprising number of
people and can come off as snobby, Silversmiths make flatware and
teapots and other things which although lovely aren’t very wearable,
you have to bite the bullet and sort out what you are comfortable
with and what your market is comfortable with, I think we all know
that here.

I’m going to hazard a guess about the prior rants, I know people
calling themselves designers have rubbed me the wrong way in the
past, not becuase they were designers, but becuase they were not. 2
or 3 becuase they were just assembling prefabricated parts and one
weird one who’s renderings were lovely but had no relation to the
laws of physics as I understood them. That’s less then 5, I’ve lost
count of the number of total people using the title I’ve met. There
are idiots working under every title to be had.

Basically, don’t worry about it, there are bigger fish to fry.

Cheers,
Norah Kerr
www.besmithian.com

Recently someone asked about jewelry design for beginners.

I just happened across a Dover book “Design for Artists and
Craftsmen” by Louis Wolchonok. The copyright date is 1953 and the
illustrations attest to that. But the info is worthwhile; the author
breaks down design elements of different forms. For those not familar
with Dover books they publish many paperbacks that are of interest to
artists and craftspeople.

Kevin Kelly -in northern NM at 6800 ft. where the apricot tree is
almost in full bloom ( what’s this about global warming )

people -

what bearing does what you’re called have on what you do? it’s what
you do and how well you do it that will assign a title to you. if
specificity is absolutely required, pick the closest in nature;
otherwise, instead of wasting time on labeling yourself, use that
time to make something that will show people what you can do
regardless of your label.

ive

who knows that time spent on extraneous matters will never be
regained; spend your time like a miser.

Please refer to my posts under “Salaries for Jewelry Designers”

If you want to know the job description and skill set required to be
calling oneself a jewelry designer.

If you don’t have the skills to be a bench jeweler, and you’re not
making your living from your metalsmithing skills… You’re a
hobbyist, an apprentice, or a student. Any other title is false
advertising.

That’s my $0.02 –
Nanz Aalund

In the post you referred to you state,

A true jewelry designer in the jewelry industry must be able to
specify their designs not only in technical drawings (that any
goldsmith could lay a caliper down on, to make the piece exactly as
detailed) But must also specify which manufacturing techniques
should be used at what points during manufacturing to either save
money in the process or to accomplish a higher quality product.
Comfort, fit, gemstone accommodations, metallurgical limitations,
manufacturing procedures, and costs are all considered.

Those who design jewelry using beads, beading chain, string, wire,
or thread must also you those same design plans and in order for
others to be able to duplicate their design, they also must put in
down in “technical drawings” or lingo for other designers to follow.
Metal smithing does not have a monopoly on methods of designing or
teaching others to follow their designs.

You then state,

A true jewelry designer must intuitively see fashion trends 2
years before they materialize in the public, because you'll need
your design in wide distribution before that marketing curve is on
the downward slide.

This is the marketing strategy for companies of ALL types of
product, not just jewelry. One must always see into the future in
order to plan for what we be marketable in their field and to stay
ahead of the competition.

And finally you state,

having been a bench jeweler who worked my way UP to the position of
designer. Just because a lot of wanna-bes are claiming the title of
jewelry designer, it does not diminish what the real job actually
requires. It is insulting that those who do not understand the
title continue to denigrate the real, very demanding, job.

This is a prime example of snobbery. People in all fields of
“jewelry design” work their way up. We all start out with simple
basic designs and as we become more skilled move on to designing
things more intricate. You are not special in this, it is the way of
learning anything. Someone in medical school does not perform
operations their first day of class. We learn by study and practice
in all professions.

And thats my $.05 cents worth (Inflation, you know)

Carolyn

Eeeyikes!..“A TRUE jewelry designer”?? Ai yi yi…!!! This sounds
like the fourth installment of the lord of the rings…lol

Ok…ok…so “I worked my way up”…I started out making cute little
sterling kitty cat earrings with turquoise after one six week night
class. Now I make cute little 22k floral pendants with indicolite and
diamonds. Who cares really? There is a market and a position for
everything and everyone. Puhleeze don’t make me throw my distinct
lack of official credentials at you. It would take me all day to
explain what education I don’t have and what courses I haven’t taken,
where I haven’t worked, what tools I’ve never seen, or even know how
to use and who I don’t know, and how somehow, despite all odds, I and
others like me still manage to make stuff that someone buys every
once in a while. To quote the inimitable Charlie Brown: Good grief!

Thank god this ain’t medical school, or I would have killed all of my
patients…I and others on this forum have said it before and will
say it again. In the end, it does not matter How long you have done
it, who you have worked for, where you have gotten your education,
what your title is. This is not brain surgery, we are not saving
lives, we are not altering the cosmos or discovering cold fusion. We
happily and gratefully sell things that people don’t actually need to
live. Although some are more expensive and some are less expensive,
upscale or downscale, we make trinkets really…and we are lucky
for the opportunity. At least I am.

Have you noticed that there seems to be little correlation between
talent and experience? One does not necessarily go hand in hand with
the other. I believe what counts in this context, is your innate and
repeated ability to produce a fine product…however you get
there…However long you have done it, whatever education and
experience you have managed to gather to you, whatever you choose to
call yourself…and again…in the end…Beauty is in
the eye of the beholder. After all is said and done…? People
just looooved those dang kitty cats.

Lisa, (Still medicating my horse Duchess’ eye. I have resorted to
bribing her with apples in order to catch her. One wonders who is
training whom) Topanga, CA USA

This is a prime example of snobbery. People in all fields of
"jewelry design" work their way up. 

Well Carolyn, I guess you can call me a snob too. But here’s the rub
with your argument. You can’t call yourself a doctor without the
proper training and credentials. In most places, you can’t even call
yourself a plumber without a license that reflects your having passed
the appropriate exams. So how is it that just anybody who wishes to
call themselves a “jewelry designer” can just start putting the title
after their name with no other expense or effort than going to the
printer and ordering the business cards? My opinion is, finally, the
proof is in the pudding. And in all cases, it’s a matter of degree.
Learning to string beads and find a place to sell them is a bit less
involved, time and money wise, than learning to design state of the
art fine jewelry. Guess we could have two titles, “jewelry designer”
and “Jewelry Designer”.

David L. Huffman

You can't call yourself a doctor without the proper training and
credentials. In most places, you can't even call yourself a plumber
without a license that reflects your having passed the appropriate
exams. 

First of all it is the law’s requirement that a Doctor and a Plumber
have a license before using those titles. No where is it required to
have a license as a “Jewelry Designer”. So who is to say what makes a
“Jewelry Designer” if its not regulated by law? I never said that all
you needed was business cards to be a designer. What I said is that
all professions need to start out with the basics and work hard at
learning and practicing to be skillful at what they do. If one becomes
skillful and educated at “bead stringing” then who are you to judge
them of not being worthy of the title of “Jewelry Designer”? If we
are going to define “Jewelry Designer” based on how much supplies
cost, then I guess all the famous painters cannot be called artists,
for it costs little to purchase canvas and paints. Clay also is
relatively inexpensive compared to gold and gems yet do we hesitate
to call sculptures artists?

Have you ever strung beads in a way that produced a beautiful and
unique result? How do you know that it takes little effort or time.
True there are many examples out there of simple beads on simple
string, but that is usually where the beginners are at. It takes a
lot of time to learn how to put colors together in a way that is
pleasing to the eye yet not ordinary. Learning which beads go with
certain metal findings, perhaps doing some wire work around the
beads, or using other elements from nature, such as shells, fabrics
etc to accentuate the beauty of a design are just a few of the
complexities of “beading”. There is a lot more involved in what you
call bead stringing than you can even imagine in your prejudice. If
those who are “Bench Jewelers” have to hoard the title of “Jewelry
Designer” to yourselves to feel important than go ahead, but why not
instead be gracious to those who choose to work as hard in learning
and practicing the skills in their chosen field of making jewelry?
You wont lose anything by doing so.

Carolyn

carolyn -

There is a lot more involved in what you call bead stringing than
you can even imagine in your prejudice. 

very true!

as most know, i am one of the cursed 'jewelry
designer/fabricator/lapidary and not a beader BUT one of the artists
i most admire is joyce scott, a ‘beader’. too bad she doesn’t belong
to orchid! but people, you owe it to yourself before starting another
thread on ‘beaders’ to do an ‘advanced search’ on google: “joyce
scott” in middle box and ‘beads, jewelry’ in top box, set for 100
hits per page (she has over 440 hits). it will add a whole new
perspective on ‘beaders’. do it.

art has his laptop set up on the sidewalk bistro table and will keep
track of those of you with the guts to google joyce and those who are
gutless -

ive

ive,

Yours is an interesting post. As you may know, I teach gem cutting,
fabrication (many aspects I might add) and casting. Many many of my
students are beaders, “who want to go to the next level” (emphasis
mine). The thing I love to see is…when they make a nice bezeled
stone or whatever, they often will ‘bead it in’ to a necklace or
something and I am often amazed at how beautiful the whole thing is
when they are finished. By selecting beads that compliment the stone
or metal or the design, they enhance the entire piece. Some very
beautiful work going on here. Thanks for your input in this regard.
(I used to do beading but just got too busy doing other things).

Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine jewelry! @coralnut2

hello again don -

I used to do beading but just got too busy doing other things

this time you have to make it to the delray affair, april 21, 22, &
23 - hopefully my regular space at the southeast corner of atlantic
and 4th - anyway, i too did some beading, not the stringing type -
except for one neckpiece i made to look like elegant spanish moss
strung around the neck - it was a ‘what if i do this and this’ thing:
string about 1.5" to 2" of the metalic-iridesent-gray beads and then
run the.012 tigertail wire back through already strung sections
randomly until it started to look like a ‘ruff’ of spanish moss. to
keep it off of the neck and not drooping down at the back i melted
low-temp solder into a sterling bicone bead for weight and a catch -
which pulled it back enough to set away from the neck just right. it
was neat! 2 women almost came to blows over who got to buy it. but
here’s one of the two reasons i gave up beading on strings: in a
hurry to see how the weighted thingie would work i polished the
bicone bead before i put away the thousand or so
metalic-iridesent-gray beads in a tray, on top of a towel (holds
tray in place) - the flexshaft cable snagged on something under my
bench and when i ducked my head without turning it off - yup.
spinning flexshaft met towel. but, on a dark night, when the wind
buffets impatiently against the windows of my studio and there’s only
a sliver of moon playing hide and seek with my once familiar but now
alien equipment in a suddenly unrecognizable studio - then, from
loose thread in a seam along the fabric of time, a metalic-iridesent
spot of glitter will flash as it rolls across a patch of moonlight.

that incident, and the 42 drawer (all full) bead cabinet that tipped
over one evening -

thanks for the email -
ive
ps: isn’t joyce’s design paradigm way ahead of most?

people -

what is jewelry design and what is creativity? 

‘when in doubt, drag the dictionary out.’ pinning down accepted
definitions can sometimes cut to the chase before muddying the
original objective beyond recognition. but, since this got lost in
‘mail waiting to send’ that’s moot. so here are definitions, late,
but succinct.

  1. “design: to prepare the preliminary sketch or plan for a work to
    be executed; to plan and fashion artistically or skillfully.”

  2. “create: to cause to come into being, as something unique that
    would not naturally evolve or that is not made by ordinary
    processes.”

people, if you’ve got free time to spend on a side trip from ‘what
is art’ to ‘what is jewelry design’, you must be experiencing a
‘creative designer’s block’ - so, forget about titles and just call
yourself ‘hermione’ or ‘ethelrod’ or whoever, according to gender;
get away from the digressions and get back to the bench.

ive