I worked with a client to come up with this design. It seems deep with maybe too much metal. He likes the design with the flower. The citrine stone is 10 mm , 14 mm, the garnet 2 mm.
I am really liking the design and the depth does not bother me. I might make the bottom flare a bit or make the sides straighter as on a thin chain I would be afraid this would flop sideways. Or make the bail large enough to fit on an omega. Maybe an omega clasp instead?
I would think a herringbone would not be stiff enough to keep this from twisting. Do they even make herring bone chain anymore? I have not seen one in what seems like years.
How will you affix the design on the top? With a citrine can I assume you will be using a laser welder for that part of the assembly? What metal are you thinking? From the render it looks like maybe fine silver but I would seriously consider using platinum and 24 kt gold for the flower petals.
This is a real winner design wise in my opinion. Make sure you get some promotional phots when it is done. Get permission from the client. Normally they are thrilled to have their jewelry and ideas in promotional media. Its a bragging point.
4 Likes
How do you plan on setting the stones? Is the last image the back of the pendant? Will you be doing the casting and or fabrication? And have you considered how deep the stone will be so that the culet doesn’t poke through the bottom of the pendant.
2 Likes
I am trying to figure out how the larger stone will be set. Will it be set from below? There doesn’t seem to be anough opening to allow this and, as Jo points out, is the setting large enough such that the cullet doesn’t get exposed. If set from above, how do you attached the smaller stone and its setting after the larger stone is set? I am assuming a laser or pulse arc welder. The whole setting seems to be round and may be hard to keep turned in the right direction depending on the chain that it is attached to. Good luck…Rob
2 Likes
The plan is the large citrine is set in the bezel, the garnet is set into the flower bezel with three arms, and the arms are laser welded onto the pendant. The image without the flowers is misleading, it is to show the coin for scale.
I am concerned the necklace will flip on its side. Not sure what to do about that except get a thick chain. Or maybe remove the flare at the base to make it broader near the chest.
I am a jewelry designer working in CAD and work with jewelers to fabricate for me.
1 Like
Couple comments. If you put the bale back further toward the bottom of the pendant, it will not tend to flop over as much. You’d have to figure how to make that look right. Also, as a faceter, I would suggest an apex crown on the citrine. This allows low crown angles, which perform better for quartz anyway and also allows you to use a pavilion angle close to or even lower than the critical angle for the material, thus giving you a shallower stone, but one as brilliant as possible for quartz. Since you already have protection on the front of the pendant, I would set the citrine as high as possible and make the culet point just barely inside the bottom of the pendant. Also, because the middle of the citrine is obscured by the garnet, you could actually cut off the culet and leave a flat spot there. No one will ever see the slight window that is created that way. I don’t have time right at the moment, but within the month I could give you exact dimensions for an oval such as I describe and a facet design for the custom cutter, if he/she doesn’t already do such design work. I’d love to cut a stone like that for custom work, but who knows when I would get to it. Probably in six months… -royjohn
2 Likes
deleted
Nice design, but unlike diamonds, coloured gems also pickup light from below the crown, so to brighten and enhance the stone, you could perhaps open up the sides of the setting, perhaps with a pierced pattern. or an open sided arched aquaduct bridge support style on an underrail?
1 Like