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Welding various sterling silvers

Jewelry Discussion
#1

I use yellow and white gold, and Argentium, and regular sterling for
fabrication, repairs and alterations. Although I torch solder, I
really enjoy my pulse arc (Orion Master Jeweler) welder. But other
than for tacking, jump rings and very small areas, it doesn’t seem
to make adequate welds in either sterling, unlike in gold, where it
works very well. Part of the problem is brittleness after welding,
which I can anneal out in some pieces. But it’s difficult or
impossible to anneal much of what I weld due to the proximity of
gems or other materials.

Ganoksin reader, which sterling silver is best for pulse arc
welding? Argentium, regular copper and fine silver, Continuum, or
what? And can you help mewith tips or advice for successful silver
welding? Is one type of sterling best for the welding wire? I would
like to be able to repair shanks, bracelets and heavier silver items
with my machine.

Joris
JorisArt.com

#2

Your best bet would be to contact the Orion folks (Sunstone
Engineering) for help with your welding issues. We started with the
Orion 150i and upgraded to the 200 i2 model and have no experience
with the Master Jeweler welder so we really cannot help you. The
later models seem to solve those brittle welds that you are talking
about. White metals are problematic with any welder; even lasers.

#3

Joris - the metal i learned to use with my PUK4 is palladium 500. It
is half silver and half palladium and doesn’t seem to produce brittle
welds.

Also - you need to warm the silver to about 120F prior to welding -
a few blank shots will do it. You can get the material from dh fell.

Judy Hoch

#4

You need more amperage than a capacitor discharge welder can
produce.

#5

White metals are not problematic with inverter based TIG welders.