BTW, thanks, Dave, for the info on wax pen and glue pellet sizes. In
re-casting wax pellets for the smaller guns, what are the characteristics of
the waxes you-all are using? Is it Matt wax? Ferris? Other types?
I’m assuming you were talking to me, Dave A
Yup. I finked-out. I seriously thought of rummaging thru my previous mail
to distinguish between all of you and just used a cowardly generic "Dave"
instead, realizing you were the only Dave who’d written on that particular
topic… However, I’ve been caught so will make a cheat-sheet.
. So far I haven’t used any, was just
posing another problem for someone to solve. When I get several other things
completed I plan to tackle that one.
What wax works best for you?
As I mentioned in a previous post to Susan, Matt extrusion wax is different
than any other kind of wax I’ve used. The blue, red and green each have
slightly different characteristics. They have what I’m assuming is a very
high plastic component that makes them very tough with a beautiful high
luster. They burn out very nicely. The toughness makes possible all sorts
of designs that are quite difficult with other waxes – you can tie knots in
thin threads, or weave them into castable patterns. But I have no clear
idea how it would perform if melted and re-cast into smaller pellets. On
the basis of practical experience, I suspect there would be some degredation
of quality. I’ve tried to heat and re-shape portions of Matt wax designs
and have failed – once cooled it doesn’t seem to like re-heating. But
perhaps if it’s re-cast into a smaller pellet, then re-extruded, it might
have interesting characteristics we haven’t even imagined yet. Or maybe
some genius in this group can come up a way of doing it, or a formula that’s