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Wax modelling


#1

orchid@ganoksin.com wrote:

If anyone needs help with there wax carving projects please let me know.
Perhaps I can be of service. I am not an expert in all aspects of
goldsmithing but I can carve a mean wax.I believe that this is the main
aspect of the forum(HELPING EACH OTHER). I have learned to carve master
waxes that have no shrinkage porosity and can be reproduced with lower
labor efforts.I just want to help any way that I can . I have been a
goldsmith for 29 years now, the last 10 yrs. devoted to wax carving for
mass production. I’ve made all the mistakes that you can make(I
think).With any luck I can help you avoid some misery, and you can make
a few bucksat the same time. I make master models for Stuller settings,
Idaho Opal ,Jewelmont, Kirschners Simon Golub,Etc,Etc. This is one of
the ways I make a living. Blessings to all of you, M.G.

orchid@ganoksin.com

M.G.
Do you use different types of wax for different purposes, or do you have
a favourite type of modelling wax that you feel is a goog all round wax,
and if so what is it.

Also what is the best way to remove air bubbles from investment before
casting, other than using the vacuum method?

If you have any interesting little tips about casting I’m sure there is
many people out there who are interested. Thanks, Ray.


#2

Raymond Lees wrote:


#3

M.G wrote:

Raymond Lees wrote:

If anyone needs help with there wax carving projects please let me know.
casting, using the vacuum method?If you have any interesting little
tips about casting I’m sure there are many people out there who are
interested. Thanks, Ray.

Who supplies Ranson and randolf ultra vest ?
Thank you
cj

Gemstone Brockerage Associates Ltd. Telephone (518)
438-5487
P.O. Box 8930
Albany, New York 12208
INTERNET ADDRESS Http://www.bizpro.com/gba
Http://www.polygon.net/~3576
Email adresses
3576@polygon.net
@j.lanese
gba@bizpro.com

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#4

What is the break down temp and cost per ???

Jim

At 10:44 AM 10/30/96 -0800, you wrote:


#5

cj wrote:


#6

You can make a cheap vacuum device using a cheap device used in labs that
creates a vacuum from running tap water. I forgot what the device is
called. Maybe someone out there knows, or I could dig around and see if I
can find the info…Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html


#7

Ray, the best wax for carving purposes to date is FERRIS green. This wax
is easy to carve, plus it is the only wax that will return to its
origanal molecular form after it has beemn melted. This gives you the
opportunity to repair any damages and fix mistakes. The best casting I’ve
found is the vacume assisted centrifical caster (The best of both worlds)
I have had no rejects from casting failures to date. This is important
when you are doing originals, I’m sure you’ve noticed that already.The
finest investment that I know of is Ransom & Randolf ultra vest, this is
what dentists use as well as model makers. I have answers, I just need
questions, as there is so much info available.

MG and all, there is a killer book on wax modeling I have that highly
recommends the Ferris waxes and is full of great tips called MODELING IN
WAX FOR JEWELRY AND SCULPTURE by Lawrence Kallenberg. Took alot of the
fear out of it for me. One tip in it is to use a hard felt buff from your
foredom (a clean new buff) and use it by hand to do a final or near final
polish of hard wax. Works really well. Also, MG, what is this vacuum
assisted centrigual caster you keep talking about? Who has it, and how
much is it?..DAve

orchid@ganoksin.com

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html


#8

Dave Stephens wrote:

You can make a cheap vacuum device using a cheap device used in labs that
creates a vacuum from running tap water. I forgot what the device is
called. Maybe someone out there knows, or I could dig around and see if I
can find the info…Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html

Dave
Problem with them is they only pull 17 lbs (at least this is true of
those that I have seen) To fully remove air and thus bubbles from
investment it takes 27-29 lbs…There are small hand operated pumps
available that might work though…They cost around $37 last time I
looked and can be purchased at auto parts stores and are used for air
conditioning service.They do have a gauge on them but it is still
necessary to have some type of bell jar to contain the vacuum.One thing
to keep in mind is the limited working time for investment and the hand
pump can be slow if the bell jar is very large…Gavin


#9

Dave Stephens wrote:

Ray, the best wax for carving purposes to date is FERRIS green. This wax
is easy to carve, plus it is the only wax that will return to its
origanal molecular form after it has beemn melted. This gives you the
opportunity to repair any damages and fix mistakes. The best casting I’ve
found is the vacume assisted centrifical caster (The best of both worlds)
I have had no rejects from casting failures to date. This is important
when you are doing originals, I’m sure you’ve noticed that already.The
finest investment that I know of is Ransom & Randolf ultra vest, this is
what dentists use as well as model makers. I have answers, I just need
questions, as there is so much info available.

MG and all, there is a killer book on wax modeling I have that highly
recommends the Ferris waxes and is full of great tips called MODELING IN
WAX FOR JEWELRY AND SCULPTURE by Lawrence Kallenberg. Took alot of the
fear out of it for me. One tip in it is to use a hard felt buff from your
foredom (a clean new buff) and use it by hand to do a final or near final
polish of hard wax. Works really well. Also, MG, what is this vacuum
assisted centrigual caster you keep talking about? Who has it, and how
much is it?..DAve

Hi DAve,
this machine is made by Stan Limb, and sold by Larry Limb. There
phone #is 801-363-4441. I don’t recall the cost but it is not
expensive,especially when you weigh the cost of failures to success
ratio.


#10

Ever try denatured alcohol on you wax to polish…yes it can ‘KILL’ a
detailed piece but if you want smoooth… Get out of town!!!

Jim

At 09:03 AM 10/31/96 -0600, you wrote:


#11

MG, damnit forgot your real name, do you use any sort of debubblizer on
your waxes before you invest? I’ve been using denatured alcohol and still
get bubbles in the crevices, been thinking about painting on investment in
those areas to avoid that…Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html


#12

Dave Stephens wrote:

MG, damnit forgot your real name, do you use any sort of debubblizer on
your waxes before you invest? I’ve been using denatured alcohol and still
get bubbles in the crevices, been thinking about painting on investment in
those areas to avoid that…Dave
Michael Gilger, Thanks for asking. To date the best process for
polishing wax that I have discovered is 1500-2000 grit sandpaper then I
use “Rey” wax polishing compound with Q-tips, clean off in hot water,dry
with air gun, then rub the piece gently with a Selvet cloth. As far as a
"debubbler" goes I don’t use one, I use a vacume chamber, and vacume in
the same mixing bowl after I have mixed the investme, then I pour the
investment in the flask and vacume it one more time.Now about vacuming;
I vacume the investment in the mixing bowl watching it rise ,when it
drops I then time it for 20-25 sec. Now I pour it in the flask and
repeat the first step vacuming with the rise, the drop, the 20-25 sec.
I forgot to mention that before I sand the wax I use different rifeling(
I think I spelled it right)files (very fine). this makes sanding a
breeze. A good set of swiss riflers will cost about 50- 90 dollars, they
are well worth the cost.I hope this helps. If you need me to be more
specific please let me know. Good sailing, Mike


#13

Michael Gilger, Thanks for asking. To date the best process for
polishing wax that I have discovered is 1500-2000 grit sandpaper then I
use “Rey” wax polishing compound with Q-tips, clean off in hot water,dry
with air gun, then rub the piece gently with a Selvet cloth. As far as a
"debubbler" goes I don’t use one, I use a vacume chamber, and vacume in
the same mixing bowl after I have mixed the investme, then I pour the
investment in the flask and vacume it one more time.Now about vacuming;
I vacume the investment in the mixing bowl watching it rise ,when it
drops I then time it for 20-25 sec. Now I pour it in the flask and
repeat the first step vacuming with the rise, the drop, the 20-25 sec.
I forgot to mention that before I sand the wax I use different rifeling(
I think I spelled it right)files (very fine). this makes sanding a
breeze. A good set of swiss riflers will cost about 50- 90 dollars, they
are well worth the cost.I hope this helps. If you need me to be more
specific please let me know. Good sailing, Mike

Michael, thanks I’ll remember now. Where do you get Rey wax polish? I have
Rio’s Wax Brite, smells like oranges, is it any good? Also what is a Selvet
cloth? Definitely Amateur Dave.

SEE THE NEW SDJ WAX GUN PROTOTYPE BOX AT: www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/waxgun

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html


#14

Dave Stephens wrote:


#15

MG;

From what company do I obtain Ferris???

Also, could we get into a ‘one on one’ on vacuum casting with what I refer
to as a perforated flask in the vacuum unit hole… It is an average VIGOR
machine… but I purchased it 2nd hand, and have very little idea as to how
to use the ‘P’ cast… really have very little luck with top level casting,
that is on the top … sitting on a silicon mat over the 'vacuum hole,
casting… or would this be tooooo boring … or do you do vacuum … as
opposed to centrifugal…

Jim
At 09:03 AM 10/31/96 -0600, you wrote:


#16

Jim Chambers wrote:

MG;

From what company do I obtain Ferris???

Also, could we get into a ‘one on one’ on vacuum casting with what I refer
to as a perforated flask in the vacuum unit hole… It is an average VIGOR
machine… but I purchased it 2nd hand, and have very little idea as to how
to use the ‘P’ cast… really have very little luck with top level casting,
that is on the top … sitting on a silicon mat over the 'vacuum hole,
casting… or would this be tooooo boring … or do you do vacuum … as
opposed to centrifugal…

Jim
At 09:03 AM 10/31/96 -0600, you wrote:
let me see now, oh yeah, swest.yeeah ,thats the one, swest.


#17

Jim Chambers wrote:

MG;

From what company do I obtain Ferris???

Also, could we get into a ‘one on one’ on vacuum casting with what I refer
to as a perforated flask in the vacuum unit hole… It is an average VIGOR
machine… but I purchased it 2nd hand, and have very little idea as to how
to use the ‘P’ cast… really have very little luck with top level casting,
that is on the top … sitting on a silicon mat over the 'vacuum hole,
casting… or would this be tooooo boring … or do you do vacuum … as
opposed to centrifugal…

Jim
At 09:03 AM 10/31/96 -0600, you wrote:

Dave Stephens wrote:

Ray, the best wax for carving purposes to date is FERRIS green. This wax
is easy to carve, plus it is the only wax that will return to its
origanal molecular form after it has beemn melted. This gives you the
opportunity to repair any damages and fix mistakes. The best casting I’ve
found is the vacume assisted centrifical caster (The best of both worlds)
I have had no rejects from casting failures to date. This is important
when you are doing originals, I’m sure you’ve noticed that already.The
finest investment that I know of is Ransom & Randolf ultra vest, this is
what dentists use as well as model makers. I have answers, I just need
questions, as there is so much info available.

MG and all, there is a killer book on wax modeling I have that highly
recommends the Ferris waxes and is full of great tips called MODELING IN
WAX FOR JEWELRY AND SCULPTURE by Lawrence Kallenberg. Took alot of the
fear out of it for me. One tip in it is to use a hard felt buff from your
foredom (a clean new buff) and use it by hand to do a final or near final
polish of hard wax. Works really well. Also, MG, what is this vacuum
assisted centrigual caster you keep talking about? Who has it, and how
much is it?..DAve

Hi DAve,
this machine is made by Stan Limb, and sold by Larry Limb. There
phone #is 801-363-4441. I don’t recall the cost but it is not
expensive,especially when you weigh the cost of failures to success
ratio.
yes we can get in on a one on one. email @M.G


#18

MG;
snip
Also, could we get into a ‘one on one’ on vacuum casting… BIG SNIP
Jim

Why do it privately? Isn’t this list for just such discussions? I would
be interested.

As to the perf flasks, we use them but also solid flasks on our vacuum
caster (Kerr). When using solid flasks, we insert soda straws along the
edges of the flasks to get a shorter vacuum distance from the center of the
flask. Also, we leave at least 1/8 inch of “headspace” at the top/bottom
of the flask to make sure the entire surface of the investment is NOT
intimately contacting the silicon rubber sealing gasket.

Our perf flasks “came with” (for a price) some heavy rubber sleeves that
are slipped over the perf part of the flasks to contain the investment.
Once set up, the sleeve is removed for burnout. Some people wrap the perf
flask with tape to contain the investment, time consuming (to put it on and
take it off) and repeated expense.

We cast all work (jewelry) with the vacuum caster (Cynthia used a broken
arm caster ((large one)) for years until we got the vacuum unit. She
misses the physical commotion of the broken arm but we have been happy with
the results and added safety of the vacuum unit.

R&R ultra vest is great. We use it too.

I am glad to have found this list… thanks for all those who are
involved in it!

John

John Dach and Cynthia Thomas
Maiden Metals
a div. of We are given eyes to see and ears to hear,
MidLife Crisis Enterprises but what is required of the mind?
PO BX 44
Philo, CA 95466
707-895-2635(phone/fax)


#19

John, Cyntha,

Suggested off line only because we started this thread … prior to you
joining the group… got to the point of using perforated fask… thought
was that maybe others didn’ want to redo the other…

But for me… Whatver

Jim

,At 11:53 AM 11/7/96 +0200, you wrote:


#20

John, Cyntha,

Suggested off line only because we started this thread … prior to you
joining the group… got to the point of using perforated fask… thought
was that maybe others didn’ want to redo the other…

But for me… Whatver

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for the note. I understand your point but then again there seems to
be a lot of other new folks here who might be interested. Don’t know, just
a thought.

Thanks again for the note…

John

John Dach and Cynthia Thomas
Maiden Metals
a div. of We are given eyes to see and ears to hear,
MidLife Crisis Enterprises but what is required of the mind?
PO BX 44
Philo, CA 95466
707-895-2635(phone/fax)
@John_Cynthia_MidLife