Would anyone out there have any suggestions on using a good glue
for joining waxes together? I have used many different superglues
with marginal success. I have also tried Citrisolve. The fine
residue these leave in the flask have caused some porosity. I
have been soldering the cast pieces together but would like to
eliminate this step. I am using mostly injection wax for my
pieces that need to be glued. Melting the pieces together is not
an option. Some of the detail is too close to the seam. I have
alway been unable to acieve a total melt together of both
surfaces and the investment would find a small unattached area to
flow into causing this breakdown during casting. I am casting a
lot of hollow rings. I saw a paste like wax being used in
Providence that seemed perfect, but I’ve never seen it offered
anywhere. The stuff spread on like butter and dried in a
reasonable time. I think it may have also been heated to the
paste like consistency. Thanks for any help, TR the Teacher
Hi The paste-like wax you are referring to may be “disclosing
wax”. It’s great for hiding small flaws and working into seams
as a final step. Another option may be inlay wax, such as “Dr
Pecks”. It melts to a very fluid point at low temperatures and
can cleanly join two sections by capillary action.
Hope this helps,
Tom Tietze
http://www.abalonepearls.com
try disolving some of your injection wax in turpinoid (less toxic
turpintine replacement). Let it soak in it overnight and stir to
mix. It will be a paste that will dry out to be like your
injection wax . put it on stick the pieces together and let sit
overnight it may work for you.
Jim
@jbin
James Binnion Metal Arts
4701 San Leandro St #18
Oakland, CA 94601
510-436-3552
TR,
There is a dental product called Zap-it. It is a viscous
cyanoacrylatewith a clear pink color. When the pieces are
applied to each other with the Zap-it they can be sprayed, or
better yet, brushed with accelerator which sets it right now!
Could this porosity come from the vibration process which may
allow the investment to ‘creep’ into the junction? You can get
Zap-it at any dental supply house. I use Zahn Dental
1-800-496-9500. ( I have no affiliation with them except being
a very satisfied customer)
Regards,
Skip
Skip Meister
@Skip_Meister
Orchid Jewelry Listserve Member
N.R.A. Endowment &
Certified Instructor
in all disciplines
Certified Illinois D.N.R.
Hunter Ed, Instructor
ICQ 37319071
Todd Hello! The soft wax you saw most likely was disclosing wax.
It is primarily used on the dental side. Waxers use it for a
variety of things. Among those, joining parts. The only problem
I see, is with your need for no mess. For instance, I use it
commonly to add wax wires for prongs. After cutting a seat with
a cylinder bur, I then add a small amount of disclosing wax to
the seat. Then gently push the prong into place. With a wax pen,
and my added wire tiny tip, use the extra end of the wire to
fuse to the piece. Sometimes I flow a little just inside where
the prong meets, that will be burred away when cutting the seat.
It’s a simple technique, and many light projects that would
normally be fabricated are possible. Get some disclosing wax and
I’ll guarantee you’ll use it in your wax work. I also use it for
laying out stones for wax and metal. It’s not as messy as bees
wax. You might consider making your own wax for your purpose.
Use the disclosing wax, injection wax, inlay wax, and a little
purple or green carving wax. Use watchmakers metal tins over
your bench torch flame, keep adjusting the mix if it’s not right
by remelting and adding what you need; more inlay for instance.
You can create a more cream cheese like texture for spreading
using different proportions. I use a mix I have to fill sloppy
corners, graver gouges, pits. Hope that helps.
Tim
Hi --Have you tried that sticky wax? It comes in a long tube
shape and is pretty malleable after being worked in your hand for
a few seconds. It may do the trick for you… Laura.