Vevor microscope focusing help

hi all! hope you’re all doing well, its been a while since i’ve been here. i’ve been busy making and taking classes and trying to get a website up etc! never a dull moment.

i recently purchased the vevor multidirectional microscope for setting work, and while I know it is a budget microscope, i had done a lot of research and found many people that were willing to say it’s a great inexpensive option for a first time microscope, so i pulled the trigger. but i’m having some issues, and i’m wondering if anyone here has this particular scope and could offer some advice.

first of all, the wheel that moves the scope up and down (the one that you an easily adjust up and down simply by turning the wheel back and forth) is very loose, so if i want the microscope higher and i use the wheel to do that, it pretty much immediately falls right back down. does anyone know if there is a way to tighten this?

second, and this is my biggest issue so far, the lens that screws onto the bottom part that gives you additional working room, it doesnt thread on so easily and so i kind of have to force it. when i look through the scope and this lens is attached, i cannot get a clear image no matter what i do. so im wondering if it’s not sitting perfectly level, since it doesnt thread on so easily, and thats potentially the reason. or maybe im just doing something wrong? i keep adjusting the distance, the eye pieces individually and no matter what i do, the image looks strange. whatever the reason, i dont know what to do. i can use the scope without that lens and the image is clear, but then i have to be so close to the object that a) if my ball vice is upright, there is not enough room to get the flex shaft in and b) if i turn the ball vice to work more from the side to account for that, its now completely out of focus again because it was only perfectly focused at the distance of the work when the ball vice was facing up.

and third, even when i am able to get the microscope to focus without that additional lens, if i use the wheel that zooms in, its now out of focus, and how could that be?? if every time i want to “zoom” i have to re-configure the height of the scope and the eyepieces, how is that efficient at all?

im just so confused and don’t know if all of this is because its a cheap. microscope, or if im doing something wrong, or if my expectations are too high. i have read many reviews of people using this particualr model for setting work so i feel like maybe i’m the problem, but im not sure.

any insight greatly appreciated!
-christine

Hi,

what model Vevor do you have?
what objective lens?

Julie

hi julie,

it’s this model!

Don’t hesitate to reach out to Vevor. They might have to send replacement parts. Also, make sure the diopter adjustment is done correctly. It’s important.

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HI,
Ok, so…

here is a link explaining how ocular (top tubes) and objective lenses (bottom) work together.

just as a point of reference and comparison…, I have a Leica A60

the native magnification for the Leica A60 is 5x to 30x (the eye tube lenses at the top)

and grs recommended a .63 objective lens for my setup (the lense at the bottom)

so magnification is 3.15x to 18.9x with objective lens

(5x.63 = 3.15 to 30x.63= 18.9)

with a working distance of 155mm/ 6.1”

“it looks like” your native magnification is 10x

with .7x to 4.5x objective lens (it says .7x to 4.5x…not sure why there is a “range” with 2 numbers…?)

so “it looks like” your magnification is 7x to 45x with objective lens
(stronger than my 3.15x to 18.9x)

(10x.7=7x …to…10x4.5= 45x)

with a working distance of 0-400mm/ 0-15.7” (my working distance is 6.1")

perhaps you are too close…try swinging the scope away from your ball vise…leave alot of room beneath the scope…put your hand near the bottom lens, and slowly move your hand down, down, down, until you get focus on your skin…it may be like 15" distance from bottom lens…

in terms of how i set up to use the microscope, try this:

sit in your chair, feet flat on ground
turn the “travel” knob (that moves the mic head up and down) to the mid position

bring microscope to your eyes comfortably
(i let the eye tubes barely touch my undereye skin, while i am staring straight ahead…then i drop my glance (not my head) and look into the tubes

first you have to adjust the tube distance so you see one lit circle and not two,
then mess around with the focus

then, measure from the bottom lens down to about 6-7” (you may need to measure down 15")
and try to figure out a way to get your work piece at that level (not the work surface) (ie: use your sweeps drawer…a stool…with books…for now…perhaps…

then turn the “zoom” knob (that zooms in and out) to the “farthest out” (least zoom) position, and then start moving your work piece and holder (ie: vise, etc) up and down until it is in focus, and then figure out a way to keep work at the height position …for now (ie: add/ remove books)

at that point, you should be able to have your work at that position, and then use the zoom knob to zoom in and out while staying in focus…

then as a double check, turn the zoom knob all the way in and make sure you are still in focus…you should stay in focus when zoomed all the way in or out…

note- when you move/ tilt/ rotate your work piece, you will/ may then have to adjust either the travel knob (for slight adjustments) or the work holder (ie: add/ remove books)…
(this is where a becnmate QCX comes in handy, as it stays centered, and has an additional axis…ie: you can work on the underside of a ring/ gallery/ basket…)

figuring the additional setup needed to make this easier is a whole nother thing…this is where smaller ball vises, grs bench shelves, tru axis slide and locs, satellite stands (look like screw adjustable stools) and/ or benchmate setups can come in handy)

i hope that makes sense…and helps…

keep us posted…

julie

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Christine, hold the lower lens up to a light and look through it to see if any of the elements are cracked.

If the threads are fine you may have cross-threaded it when screwing it in. Try to be sure is is inserted correctly. A little bit of bur-life / candle wax on the threads might help.

I have a lower priced scope from Otto Frei (discontinued) and if I change the magnification I also have to adjust the height. That’s one of the downsides to cheaper optics.

Neil A

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I think Neil A is on the right track to make sure that your lens is screwed on properly and that the threads haven’t been stripped. It’s really easy to screw fine threads off center and mess them up.

Like Neil A, I don’t own this scope, but I own the Otto Frei scope that looks almost exactly like it. It might even be the same scope? When my Otto Frei scope has slipped and not stay where I adjust it to, I have tightened up every nut. I’ve always found loose ones. That’s worked for me.

It is possible that the gears that raise and lower the scope could be messed up, but I’ll bet the whole mechanism is loose and just needs to be tightened.

Like Brennan said, if you’ve tried everything you can think of and still have problems, reaching out to Vervor is a good idea. It’s still new right? It should be under warranty.

Let us know how it’s going.

Jeff

I have a similar Chinese scope, I’d be happy to do a FaceTime call too if that would help. I had some struggles with mine at the outset too.

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Hi Neil, Brennan, and Jeff,

do your scopes have the same 10x native ocular kens and .7 to 4.5 objective lenses?

if so, what working distance you all usually work with?

julie

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I can’t do it today, but I’ll try to check the working distance soon. It’s enough working distance to use a hammer and setter’s punch, a hammer hand piece, or a flex shaft. I think it’s 8ish inches.

I don’t know what the lenses are though? Maybe Neil A or Brennan know that info?

Jeff

Yes, that sounds right. And then I have the .5 barlow lens on. I’ll measure working distance later.

At the magnification the scope is set on right now, 6 inches. Alas that changes as I change magnification, so working distance varies.

Neil A

thank you for such a detailed reply julie, i’m going to work on figuring all of this out tonight, i will keep you posted

i reached out to them! they gave me step by step instructions on how to set it up re the distance but i haven’t gotten a chance to try it out yet. im hoping ill be able to figure it out with the instructions and maybe if i need to replace the lower lens

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and thank you, i might take you up on this if i end up not being able to figure it out!

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That’s great! Don’t hesitate to reach out if I can help.

Hi,

f you have the smaller micro block, grs sells step risers, to quickly change the height of your workpiece…

or, you can figure out a way to make yourself…



julie

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There is a bolt at the top, just in front of the focus mast that moves the scope up and down; tightening this a wee bit will adjust the focus pinion.
Hope this helps.

2 Likes

THANK YOU this fixed that part of the issue

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thank you all so much for taking the time to help, i’m 99% sure that it’s the lower lens that gets screwed on that is the issue. i contacted vevor and am really hoping they’ll send a replacement, i am just worried that the threading in the actual microscope part is messed up and so what if even a replacement won’t work? the kind of “bluriness” that happens when it’s screwed on is different than just being out of focus, no matter how i adjust the working distance or the eyepieces, it still has this blur that almost makes me nauseated to look at, i tried to take a photo with my phone. and as you can see, when screwing it on one side is very off at the start. eventually, if i keep turning, it seems to screw totally on but i bet its still lopsided it’s just cleared the field of view so i can’t tell anymore once its screwed on past a certain point. and if i remove that, and adjust the working distance to be really up close, its perfectly clear, but i won’t be able to work that way. so it must be the lens that’s the issue