I think this difference of opinion about what constitutes “vermeil"
is dependant on your frame of reference. This shouldn’t be a
”'tis/'taint" argument because the usage varies with the context:
If one depends on a dictionary entirely, then vermeil is simply gold
plateing on silver, brass, nickel, or copper. This reminds me of
another thread on another list in which some people argued that
"patina" meant “rust” and nothing else because that’s what their
dictionary said.
If you are immersed in the milleu of antiques, especially in
conservation, it is certainly correct to use “vermeil” when describing
gold plated brass because the historic origins of the word derives
from “vermillion” which was the red colored cinnabar mineral ore from
which mercury is derived, back when mercury gilding was the only
method of gold plating - before the understanding of electricity or
the invention of the process of electroplating. Then, vermeil was the
common term to describe gold plating on any metal.
If, however, you are making or dealing with vermeil jewelry today,
buying chains for example, vermeil refers to heavy gold plate on
silver. In fact it is defined by the Federal Trade Commission as such.
If you refer to a modern example - Rio Grande’s findings catalog -
vermeil is described as:
“The 14-karat gold layer meets FTC requirements of 100 millionths of
an inch over sterling silver.”
Times and meanings have changed and perhaps I’m showing signs of age,
but modern usage in the jewelry trades descriminated against using the
term vermeil with other metals than silver when I first learned it in
the early 1960’s. Only three jewelry books among 26 references I
searched refer to vermeil at all, but those three agree that vermeil
is gold plate on silver, with no mention of other metals. To be fair,
two of the books are by the same author, Oppi Untracht, so perhaps I
should report that only two authors mentioned vermeil at all.
Over time words and meanings change, and I’ll be the first to concede
that. And it may be that usage has switched again in the last ten
years without my noticing, but among my jewelry trade acquaintances
and suppliers, at least, “vermeil” universally means gold on silver,
and is used as such to attempt (however silly it may seem) to elevate
the esteem of gold plated silver items above gold plated brass or
other baser metals. I believe the vast majority of those who use the
term regularly, who make the jewelry, or sell the jewelry both
wholesale and retail, understand that it’s “thick” 14k plate on
sterling silver.
I’ve read that there was a time when “gold filled” referred to
material with a reasonably thick layer of gold applied on the surfaces
AND a smaller but significant gold content in the base metal. But
today it’s incorrect to argue that “gold filled” means there’s any
gold alloyed in the base metal, it’s no longer true even though it
reportedly once was true. There must have been a period of time when
people argued about that too.
While I was at it, just for fun, I looked up my own name in a “New
Twentieth Century” Webster’s Unabridged Dictionary. My father used to
delight in explaining that “Heugh” meant a steep cliff overlooking
water. . . well that definition isn’t there anymore, but it does
mention a hill, or a low spot, or even (my favorite) a coal pit.
Alan Heugh