I have experience with Model Master and have made many models with
it. I use it to make direct models and I also use it to make
templates which I emboss wax into, to make reverse patterns. For
this purpose I use pink sheet wax and a screw press, with spray
silicone as a release for the wax. These can be manipulated into
curves that the relatively rigid Model Master materials cannot do.
One thing to watch out for as you design for the system is that your
remaining upper surfaces, after washout, are not too narrow. And
sometimes it is better to do detail engraving on the final metal
model rather than trying to do all detail in the Model Master
Three of the four beads on this page http://www.craftswomen.com/
M’louBrubaker/beads.html were created using Model Master, one way or
the other. (The Braid Bead design was not.) The heron pendant on my
opening page (see link below) was made with a zinc etched plate. The
fine lines are deep, and go straight down, unlike an engraved line.
This gives very sharp detail. The chain loop was soldered on to the
silver cast model later.
A zinc etching made with artwork sent out to a print shop etcher
will make crisper and finer etched plates than Model Master. I think
that there are fewer of these shops around now, however. Several
times I drew india ink designs all over a page about 6 inches square
and sent it out to be etched. The metal is very easy to file and saw,
but doesn’t bend very well. But you can make a rubber mold of it and
then bend the wax that comes out of that mold, make the piece, and
make another mold for your final production run. I did this for some
of the beads, though now I usually emboss a reversed plate to make
them, and then roll the wax for a final cast model. I do not
currently have a recommendation for a zinc etching shop, but let me
know if you have any other questions about working with Model Master.
I like it very well! HTH!
M’lou Brubaker, Jeweler
14015 W. Co. Rd. 578
Goodland, MN 55742
(218) 492-4487 (phone/fax)