I need to attach a sterling silver pin back to a bezel mounted
turquoise piece. The stone is not yet mounted. I’m concerned about
damaging the pieces of the pin back with a flame, so I want to use
Tix solder. I experimented with the Tix, using a soldering iron, but
am not satisfied with the results. I’m looking for guidance on using
the Tix solder. Any help is appreciated.
Bruce Farley
Turquoise Bear LLC Custom Jewelry.
I need to attach a sterling silver pin back to a bezel mounted turquoise piece. The stone is not yet mounted. I'm concerned about damaging the pieces of the pin back with a flame, so I want to use Tix solder. I experimented with the Tix, using a soldering iron, but am not satisfied with the results. I'm looking for guidance on using the Tix solder.
Bruce-You should never contaminate silver or gold with low
temp/lead/tix type solder. It should only be used as a last resort.
Best to brush up on your silver soldering and do it right. Have fun
and make lots of jewelry.
Jo Haemer
timothywgreen.com
First protect the stone with some wet wadded newspaper- form it into
a small shape that will cover the stone completely - (don’t let the
wad hang over the sides of the piece)and firmly press around the
stone. You don’t want it dripping wet but wet enough so a butane
torch doesn’t affect it. Second thoroughly clean and pickle then
neutralise and rinse the piece again removing any leftover flux,
solder, etc. and sand smooth with increasingly finer grits of
sandpaper, polishing film, or whatever you prefer (I like 3M
products, particularly their Tri-m-ite papers and radial bristle
discs- remember to let the rotation of the flex shaft do the work if
not doing iot by hand, as opposed to pressure on the bit, mandrel,
etc.).Don’t use a silicone wheel unless you are experienced at it,
They can leave streaks if too much pressure is exerted that will
have to be cleaned off as well. Also sand a flat spot on the pin stem
as there needs to be no gap whatsoever between the piece and what you
are attaching. .To Continue:Since you have decided you want to use a
soft solder ( tix), use the flux that is supplied with it- using a
flux like Dandix /Handy flux paste indicates a much higher flow
point than that of Tix’s flux which I believe is around 600 degrees F
to flow, the “Handy flux” melts /indicates around 1100 degrees F. so
it is useless in your application. Battern’s will also work, as will
a Pripps type liquid flux (alcohol and boric acid/borax you have
mixed up).you may take a nibbler, or just a pair of cutting pliers
and cut a small bit off of the stick and flatten on a bench block to
use as a paillion- as though it were chipped solder., place it where
it is needed on the piece after fixturing the piece inan annealing
pan or other soldering surface- I use pieces of charcoal block. when
i need to position something in a hit and run soldering operation,
then using a butane torch (as that is more than adequate) heat the
piece and solder. Let it cool, check the join and pickle as usual.
rinse, let dry thoroughly as there may be some sawdust under the
turquoise depending on where and when it was made. Boxwood helps it
dry faster, as does a room with circulating dry air that is not
humidified, If you have any more questions don’t hesitate to write
again. rer
I wouldn’t use Tix unless you first hard solder both the pin catch
and joint onto a single piece of what ever metal you are using then
solder that whole assembly onto the back of the pin using Tix. That
way you have a large amount of surface area for the Tix to hold onto
and the stress of opening and closing the pin won’t be on just the
findings. Tix is really good for areas which are sensitive to heat
but it is not strong enough to stand up to much stress. The surface
areas of the backs of those findings is too small to hold using only
Tix. Sam Patania, Tucson
I need to attach a sterling silver pin back to a bezel mounted turquoise piece.
You won’t damage the pin back, they are nickel, I hard solder them
all the time.
Michael
Sometimes you have no choice. To put the silver pin back on the pins
stem assemble needs to be manufactures or bought with a CUP on it.
the cup holds and hides the lead solder. Done correctly will hold
just fine and not be seen nor hurt the stone.
Go here and look at a FLAT EYE
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep7zu3
That kind of cup. Naomi I think carries them or you can hard sodler
the pin stem assemble to the cup and then lead sodler it to the
bezel. To do it use a small ball bur and roughen up the area on the
bezel.
Then you’re set.
David Geller
JewelerProfit.com
I agree with Jo Haemer. Don’t use Tix or any other low grade solder.
It is much better to use silver solder to attach the catches. Alma
I agree with David. If you simply want to stay away from lead, find
a jeweler who has a laser or pulse arc welder. If you lived in
England, the assay offices don’t look kindly on the use of lead on
precious metals.
Jeff Herman