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Up to date way of setting stones


#1

Hi all, I have been told that using claw settings for faceted stones
is old fashioned and catch in clothing. I would appreciate any
suggestions on a more up to date way of setting stones. Photographs
and sketches might help too.

Thanks
Richard


#2
I have been told that using claw settings for faceted stones is
old fashioned and catch in clothing. 

It looks like we are talking about two things: Style and technique

Style: Claw setting, or prong setting as most Americans call them,
is a timeless style of holding stones. There are older, more
traditional looking styles, commercial styles of prong settings, as
well as more innovative interpretations of prongs. For instance,
designer Whitney Boin has created a beautiful line of what he calls
"post" settings. And then there is the single prong setting for
diamonds that I have seen. Both are contemporary interpretations of
traditional styles of prong setting.

Technique: Any stone that is poorly set, regardless of the style,
is a cause for concern. Poor setting skills jeopardize the security
of the gem, the safety of the wearer and the integrity of nearby
clothing. However, if a stone is properly set in prongs that are
shaped to meet the stone without any gaps or burs of metal to catch,
the gem, wearer and nearby objects are safe and secure.

The key is knowledge. Learn more about different styles of settings
and learn how to execute setting procedures properly.

Good luck, Alan Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts 760 Market Street -
Suite 900 San Francisco, CA 94102 tel: 415-391-4179 fax: 415-391-7570
web: http://www.revereacademy.com email: alan@revereacademy.com
or alanrevere@aol.com


#3

This is a constant source of irritation to purveyors of women’s
clothing as they watch their merchandise being snagged and raveled
as it catches on the rings of customers going through the racks.
Dee


#4
    I have been told that using claw settings for faceted stones
is old fashioned and catch in clothing. 

I personally am not a fan of prong setting. Especially if I am
making a one of a kind piece and don’t want add 'bought ‘parts in a
handcrafted item. Some jewelers consider a designer piece something
that is a creation of ‘bought’ parts! Remember the old ad…"Parts
is parts’ I don’t even have a name for some of the way I set
stones…channel, 1/2 bezel ,modified bezel,semi tension. If you care
to visit my website for some examples


Thomas


#5

I personally thought that the stones were well set. No possibility
of catching in clothes, just that claw/prong settings are old
fashioned. They strike me as a very sound traditional way of holding
stones in place.


#6

Dear Richard, this topic should stimulate responses. Perhaps you
could suggest to whoever told you claw settings are old fashioned and
catch in clothing, that they could go back to the even older
fashioned bezel settings.

Really, it’s all about horses for courses. Claw settings became
possible because of improving metals technology and the evolution of
techniques and tools. Properly designed, made, and set claws should
not catch on clothing. Poor setting technique or client-inflicted
damage will cause problems, but these same factors will affect most
types of settings including bezels.

If you want some alternative suggestions, look in any contemporary
manufacturer’s catalogue. There are some quite ingenious solutions
out there.

Kind regards,
Rex Steele Merten


#7

I did ask the person who told me that claw settings are old
fashioned to tell me what I should use instead. I am still waiting
their reply. I have looked on the professional jewellers website. I
have found quite a bit of info, particularly on flush settings. This
system seems quicker to make that claw settings, but does seem to
hide the stone more. It looks like something that was introduced on
mass produced rings. What do people think about flush settings?
Richard


#8

What do people think about flush settings?

I find a great deal of folks like flush setting, don’t remember any
that opposed it. It is probably the most secure setting there is, and
I think attractive. I find when a customer comes in to pick up there
newly designed ring, in which I have changed from prong to ANY other
setting, they usually think the stone looks bigger! And this is why I
think that. When you look down on a stone set with prongs, your eye
circles around the inner part of the stone,probably to the star facet
and into part of the bezel facet, stopping at the prongs, for they
fold over the edge. And prongs have to come up and over the upper
girdle facet to a certain point for security. In say, a full bezel
setting the metal is grasping such an area, that it doesn’t have to
’reach’ as far up face for security. THUS, your eye doesn’t have any
’distractions’ to stop it from cleanly circling the stone. I
particularly like the half bezel where you can still see a good deal
of the stone from 2 sides. Also Roberto Coin has a style that is like
a half/flush setting for lack of a better description. On a narrow
band the diamond actually is exposed on edges. Thomas


#9

Thomas, thanks for the info about flush settings. I think I agree
with you on most of the points, but a flush setting does tend to hide
some of the stone. I had a look at your website. What is a certified
bench jeweller? Richard


#10

To my respectful writer: “Flush Setting” a.k.a. “Gypsy Setting” is
done only in one way…correctly… the inside chased-over metal MUST
be Bright-cut with a sharp graver. I use a Right-Sided, Onglette #2
tool that is modified just for this purpose, to Bright-cut any inside
surface around the “Flush Set” stone. If not, you will have too much
metal covering the diamond. All Flush-Set stones should have a
smooth angled surface to reflect the Crown facets of the stone. As
this will make the stone look larger than it is while it is covered
with gold on the extreme girdle. One thing to watch out for is to
have the diamonds’ table just at the surface of the gold, AFTER emery
cleaning, not before. The stone must be FLUSH, hence its name!
Remember that if you folks are using a Flat Graver, the running of
the graver will “hit” each of the facets and then the graver will
transfer these “hits” into a faceted edge around the inside
wall…yuk! Hint: I make the stone just a tad lower at first setting,
to allow for any severe filing and polishing an/or cleaning after!
Gerry, the Cyber-Setter!!!


#11

Hellooooo Orchid
I will actually use a very small burnisher to “bright cut” the
inside edge of a flush set stone.

Peace Karl


#12

All, Some years ago, I picked up at a local art/hobby store some
little tools…about 5" long made of sturdy stainless with small
round balls on the end…I got several different sizes. I use
these smooth round balls to finish around the inside edge of flush
set stones. Simply drag them around and they burnish and brighten
the inside edge. Works great.

Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine jewelry! @coralnut2