Tristan Webber?

I was cruising the fashion webpages - and came across a London
1999 runway design by Tristan Webber. It is a white dress with
metal framework up the back. I couldn’t find a good photo of it,
or any other about the “metal framework.” Is anyone
up on this? I’d appreciate any as to
artists/collaborators, what kind of “metal”, etc… or a better
photo even :wink: Thanks in advance, Kirsten in PA

Tristan Webber is a British designer who is known for his work
in leather and non-traditional fabric materials. I love his
designs although I don’t think I would ever wear his clothing
because of the animal hides and I would be afraid to attract too
much attention to myself. I am not sure what metal is used in the
piece you describe, but I do suggest that you check out the work
of other contemporary designers who work with metals and
collaborate with metalsmith/jewelers. Junya Wantanabe of Japan
has some great pieces with aluminum piping, Alexander McQueen has
done some great work in both metals and wood (of all things) in
collaboration with Naomi Filmner and other British craftspeople,
Helen Storey has a great dress with a sterling silver "spine"
designed by her daughter, I believe, plus Hussein Chalayan, Yohji
Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, the list goes on. I was fortunate to see
a recent exhibit on Japanese textile technology at the Museum of
Modern Art in NYC and was amazed at the innovative use of metals
in these pieces. There was even an example of spun steel yarn
that had the silkiness of rayon, but still felt cool to the
touch. I noted that many of the innovators in this field were
Westerners hired by Japanese firms. Maybe I will move to Japan,
ha ha. Seriously, the fashion world, for all its flighty
shallowness is abounds with really innovative designers who are
not afraid to take on metal as a material for their work. I have
a collection of magazine and newspaper clippings dating back to
1986 of designs I have found inspiring, and many of them contain
metal! I hope to buy a scanner one day and load my computer with
a bunch of these images so I can share them.

Juliet Gamarci
Jewelry Design Student
Fashion Institute of Technology
New York City

Juliet, What a wonderful bunch of research subjects you have
given me. Thank you so much! When I think of jewelry, most of the
time I think of something that can be removed. I think it quite
exciting to think of a piece that is an element of the fabric not
to be removed. The costume would be incomplete without the metal
element. Simply - it could be buttons. Extravagantly - it could
be one of the metal spines you told about. Now that I have some
names - my research will be so much easier. Thanks for the
inspiration. ***Kirsten in PA

I’ve been doing more research in my piles of magazines and
discovered the the Helen Storey dress was a collaboration with
two jewelers, Julia Forte and Emma Gummer, who have a company
called Articular. They are the people who produced the spine,
which can also be bought separately. Another designer to check
out is Owen Gaster, he has worked with John Pearce (aka Johnny
Rocket) who makes large neck cuffs that are really futuristic
looking. Metalsmiths to research are Arline Fisch, her early
works are amazing, Nilda Getty (a fellow Argentine), Seamus
Leaney(sp?), Lara Boeing, Janice Taylor, Charlotte Meyer, those
are names just off the top of my head. Good luck with your

Juliet Gamarci